Hello, 

I can't quite tell from the pictures but the low angle block plane is a "bevel up" plane, meaning the plane iron should fit in the body of the plane with the ground bevel of the iron facing up.  Take a look and verify that is the case.  I don't have that exact model of plane so I am not sure how the depth adjustment screw interfaces with the plane iron (grooves on one side of the blade or a single slot that goes all the way through the blade).  If there is a slot that goes all the way though the blade so the adjustment mechanism can grab it from either side of the iron then I would guess that your iron is installed bevel down.  Good luck!

Pretty funny because this is the second time today that I am answering the same question.  I got a co-worker interested (addicted) on boat building and he too is wrestling with his Stanley plane today.

Is your plane the 1-3/8" x 6" Stanley low angle that they sell here at CLC for around $50?  If so, I have the same plane with the same problem, and yes the bevel is installed up.  If you have a honing guide, you could try making the bevel a bit steeper but I am not sure how that would alter the cutting qualities.  

The low end Stanley planes are really pretty crappy, but their Sweatheart line is much better.  CLC sells the Sweetheart 60-1/2 low angle which is a MUCH better plane.  It is double the price and a bit heavy for small boat work IMO, but it works very well.  In the picture below, it is just to the right of the big Jack Plane in the back center (Stanley Sweetheart 62 - also a good plane for bigger jobs).

If you really want to treat yourself, buy a plane from Lie-Nielsen.  They are way expensive but worth every penny.  Their Apron plane if the right size for most kayak building and the Violin Maker's plane is great for beveling strips. 

   All of my planes that work great are approaching 50 years old. The newer ones don't work so great. 

Did you have this book?....................

https://www.stanleytools.com/support/faqs?productsku=12-138

  Mark N, I see you have a Robo bevel. Does it work as advertised?  

>> Is your plane the 1-3/8" x 6" Stanley low angle that they sell here at CLC for around $50?  If so, I have the same plane with the same problem, and yes the bevel is installed up.  If you have a honing guide, you could try making the bevel a bit steeper but I am not sure how that would alter the cutting qualities. <<

I too have the same plane with the same problem. I tried dissassembling the adjustable mouth and filing the adjusting mechanism a little so that it would open wider. It helped a little. More aggressive filing is probably in order - but I have another block plane that works fine so I haven't frigged with it further.

   I too have that same plane and as has been mentioned, it is a bevel up plane and it looks like yours blade is upside down. When you remove the cap you should see the Stanley stamp on the top of the blade. When installed properly, there should be pleantly of room to adjust the blade with out any alterations and have a useable plane.

With that being said, it is a cheap plane that is hard to keep in adjustment. As Mark N said, an upgrade is the Stanley Sweetheart 60-1/2 which I also have and is a great improvement although it has thick heavy walls in the casting and you can feel the weight after useing it for a long period. A much better plane is the Lie-Nielsen 60-1/2. The casting is thinner which means less weight and has a great hand feel. The price of $165 is the only thing keeping me from buying it. Another great plane as Mark mentioned is the Lie-Nielsen 102 apron plane. It's only a few dollars more than the Sweetheart 60-1/2 although a little smaller in size. I love using that plane.

Hey Grumpy,  I have used the Robobevel on two boats now.  It is a great tool that does work as advertised.  It does not however completely eliminate hand beveling.  Works very well in open space but as the distance between strips narrows, it won't fit up against the forms and you have to hand bevel.  Definately worth the $$.

I can adjust the 'window' on mine using the knob and lever on the front. It works fine. 

Here's a couple of pictures to go with Yambo's answer:

The adjustable mouth, moves forward and back to make room for the blade.

The actual adjustment mechanism - the knob and lever Yambo was talking about.

Finally, here's a YouTube video showing how to make all the adjustments, including the mouth, for that plane (adjustments start at 4:27 in).

Laszlo

Thanks Laszlo, I saw the original post while I was having a cup of tea, between boat building sessions,, answered quickly and was going to get the camera out a bit later to clarify things. 

You've saved me an embarrasing, out of focus photo opportunity!  Ta.

The adjustable-throat block planes are a mixed blessing. If you're doing fine work, planing curly or end grain, and have your plane set to take almost see-thru shavings, then the freedom to close down the throat is very useful. But the throat adjuster won't stand up to agressive shop use- when the nose gets bumped, the sliding plate ... slides, and rams into the blade.

For beveling planks, where you're probably taking agressive cuts (not see-thru!), perhaps not working carefully on a clamped workpiece at ideal working height (one handed, on the floor, holding the piece with one hand, shuffling along the plank on your knees, etc.), then the robust one-piece cheaper planes are actually my preference.

Having dropped my Record sliding throat plane once, on its nose, and spent hours repairing the blade, it now sits on a shelf unless it's really needed. My hardware store Stanley, tuned and sharpened of course, does worry free service on 90% of the cuts I ask of it.