I got a pair of these cheap, folding steel sawhorses.

Then I screwed a 2x4 on the top of each one to extend them and give me a forgiving support when using the circular saw.  I could cut into the 2x4 a little when making long cuts.  Or, put a sheet of plywood on top of them and screw it into the 2x4s w/ drywall screws for a quick temporary table.  Unscrew it, prop the ply against the wall and fold up the horses.  I had a small garage.

   If you use a 2x6 or 2x8 on top of those horses, you gain the ability to clamp to it. Also, a hollow core door makes a light but fairly rigid work table laid across the horses. I use a pair of bifold doors which then fold in half when not in use.

   Bigger is usually better, but best to use extra you already have! A hollow door would have been lighter for sure.  I took the plywood (1/2" I think) and glued a 2x4 backbone on the underside w/ leftover epoxy from a glue session to stiffen it.  I used it for a backing for the circular saw and drill so it got a number of grooves and divots in it.  Glued meant there were fewer metal bits to accidently hit.  

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���Pipe insulation on 1x6s provides a cushion when building or storing.

We made our own with store-bought brackets and 2x4s. Advantage of this is you can make them to a height that suits you personally. You're going to spend a lot of hours bent over that hull. We made two sets: a low set and a high set for working on the boat upside down or upside right respectively.

I built a pair based on this plan. 

https://www.finehomebuilding.com/2007/03/01/adjustable-height-sawhorse

Adjustable height was important to me. Because of tight workshop space I wanted enough height that I could clear the top of the table saw with the kayak so I made the height adjustable from 30 to 40". I made the top support 24" wide.

I added lockable wheels and removable kayak cradles. It worked great, but in hindsight I'd have made the base a bit wider. I had to be careful moving it around at full height. I never tipped it over but it was always a possiblity.

Here's how the cradles look. They're held in place by a couple of dowels inserted into the cross beam so they can be easily removed.

This is a timely discussion as I have just completed one saw horse similar to the drawings at CLC: https://www.clcboats.com/shoptips/stitch_glue/sawhorses_slings.html.

I'll do one more for the other end of the kayak I have yet to start. I'll likely purchase two inexpensive ones with height adjustability. That way I'll have four to support the two 96"x30" tables I will have to build for the assembly. The tables will be 3/4" plywood with 2x4s to provide lateral support.

Rob

I built as set of 3 of the same ones that RobS built last weekend for the Chespeake 17 I'm building.  Here's a slightly more verbose link:

https://www.clcboats.com/modules/shoptips/shoptip.php?quickname=stitch_glue&quickname2=sawhorses_slings&print=1

These are very similar to other woodworking sawhorses I've been meaning to build with the added advantage of a removable top bar, so it can be replaced with a web sling for working on boats.

One tip I would add is to make all of your sawhorses and workbenches the same height.  That way, you can use these sawhorses as outfeed tables for your table saw or use your table saw as an additional sawhorse when cutting a large sheet of plywood.

To determine what height to make all of your workbenches/sawhorses, stand up straight with your arms hanging straight down at  your sides with your wrists bent, so that your hands are parallel to the ground.  The distance from the palms of your hands to the floor is the ideal work height for you.

Over the years I've been collecting these:

They have various brand names and are available at the big DYI stores, but they're all the same thing. They're also pretty much the same quality and price, regardless of the brand name stamped on them.

They fold up, have adjustable heights and epoxy drips can usually be popped off. The slots in the top tightly grip 2-by dimensional lumber and there's a lateral groove that's good for pipes and masts.

Here's how I use them when building long narrow boats:

I put a pair of 16-foot 2x4's in the slots and screw 3/4" exterior plywood on top of them. That gives me a rigid tabletop which then can be covered with poly sheeting to handle drips. Once the boat is all stitched together, I attach vertical 2x1's and put nylon straps between them to form a sling.

The width depends on the boat's beam. For long narrow kayaks I use 2 feet (1/2 a sheet of plywood). For wider boats, it can be extended within reason (you don't want such a large overhang thaht putting weight on it will upend the table).

The whole thing disassembles/folds into easy-to-handle and store pieces that don't take up much room (relatively speaking). The table is strong enough to stand on. There's plenty of room underneath for storage while building. Since it's cheap wood I can attach clamps, vises, etc. without worrying about messing things up. If I need a smooth surface, I can always cover it with masonite.

While this is a bit of a drift from sawhorses, it's sawhorse-based and having a table surface is extremely useful at times. You can also easily revert this to just sawhorses for sanding and glassing, if desired.

Laszlo

  I used 1x4 or 1x6 for the cross pieces and used 2 inch pipe insulation as a cushion.  If an angle or some stability is required under the boat; use some clamps attached to the cross pieces but under the pipe insulation to prop up the boat. Cheers.