I'm sorry, I don't know why my post is duplicated. I don't see an option to remove it sadly.

   I'm about 30 hours into a Rhode Runner build here near Lake Lanier, GA.  The hull and frames are all assembled - now looks like a boat.  I just pulled the stitches this week and today will start with a lot of filet work. Side note: I'm going out outboard shopping as soon as I'm done typing this.  Availability online looks lean, and a local dealer just told me to expect a couple of months for delivery. 

Just a couple of notes:

I'd be happy to share info with any other builders.  I have built a NE Dory and a couple of kayaks, so the Pro-Kit format isn't a problem for me - but anyone who is a newbie to stitch and glue and/or not confident in doing things without detailed step by step directions and/or not comforatable in the workshop should carefully consider before jumping in.  Even with that said, a confident person COULD do this as a first kit IF they watch all the online instructional videos for techniques. 

Craig, having built a Pocket Ship you'll have no problem at all with the Rhode Runner. (And I'm primarily a sailor/kayaker, too, but now going to the dark side for this boat.  I'm blaming it on my wife!)

I have discovered some quite minor errors or omissions in the pro-kit instruction booklet.  I'm taking notes and will send those in to CLC periodically.  Just one for instance: the kit doesn't come with a backing block in the stem for a bow eye installation, and doesn't even mention putting on a bow eye as a possible thing you might want to do.  I can't imagine that there are many builders of this boat that won't want a bow eye.  And per the design, the whole forward under-bow is a sealed flotation compartment (to satisfy regulations) and inaccessible once the deck goes on.  So... I've already put in a backing block.  And (don't tell John or our local GA boat inspector) but I've already built a nice kayak-style hatch into Frame 2 to access the bow compartment when the build is complete.  How else does one wire up the bow light, etc?  I'm confident the boat will be seaworthy and the floatation still watertight with the hatch in place.  So it is on me to keep it shut while underway - I'll take that responsibility.  I've also found a couple of parts drawn slightly wrong, etc. - no big deal, but might be frustrating to someone that didn't want to figure things out.  And I'm electing to do some steps in slightly different order than per the pro-kit guide.

Now on to anwering Craig's question.  I think the Rhode Runner is a beautiful little boat and the build is going along fine.  I won't attempt to compare it to something like the Peeler Skiff - a different boat - and different boats for different folks.