I may not be understanding your question, but I believe the idea is to not epoxy just the bottom and garboard #1 planks, so they're more able to bond to the fiberglass in later steps.  You can go ahead and epoxy the interior of the other planks as needed.

If I remember correctly, the steps logically go:

• Stitch the epoxied and un-epoxied planks as stated above
• Lock in all the seams (using bulkheads temporarily as spacers)
• Glass the exterior bottom panel
• Flip and remove bulkheads to glass the interior bottom three panels
• Install the bulkheads permanently and fillet

This process works great and is the quickest and easiest way to get the planks into a rigid boat shape, and it's much easier glassing around all the interior bulkheads like you have to do with some of the other boats.

I've built an EP and a PMD, so if that doesn't answer your question, please expound and I'll clarify if I can.  Good luck!

   CaptiainSkully, 

Thanks for the response.  I was RVing in Eastren WA and could not respond sooner.

I agree with with your response and approach.  What I wanted to say was  when I build a Skerry about 2009, I had to drill all wire holes so I approached it little  differently.  On the 2018 Eastport pram the wire holes are  pre drilled by CLC processiing method so the new manual approached the interior  likely not to cover the wire holes for the bulkheads  and frams.   It occured to my that is a good Idea and it follows your plans.

On the 2009 Skerry, after I put the fiberglass on the bottome and the first plank, I painted on the two coats of the requred resin in the whole interior.  (I also had the hull fiberglassed.)  I than drilled the holes for the frams ana bulkhead.  

I thought I could do that with the pram but it would cover the nail holes. Thus, I am going to follow the manual.

The frams for the new pram has slots on the bottom to support the seat frams.  I am thinking about putting in model clay to cover the holes when I fiiberglass the bottom and interior to reduce risen from fill up the holes.  Any Ideas anyone?

NickL

Since I'm a plans builder, I've never had to deal with the alignment slots before.  I do know that it has been discussed previously on a forum thread here, but after a quick search, I was not able to find it.  I would scroll back through the threads a couple of years to find that thread.  There were some good info/options discussed.

   Thanks Skully, I will research next couple of years.  I call CLS all they told me I had to clean out the resin from the slots. No mention of time nor did i ask.  It would make sence to clean it out before ti gets too hard.  I could not think of any ideas except plumber's puddy or model clay to cover thd slot for much easier cleaning.

I am going  to post the slots questions as a special post so someone may know.

Thanks

What about a small patch of plastic wrap over the hole before you put the bulkhead in place?  That will allow the bulkhead to fully plug in and resist the epoxy.