Rick,

This is pretty standard for a s&g boat from CLC. The stem and transom have to be glued in as prescribed and the copper will be buried on the inside and sanded off on the outside. The wire on the frames will also be buried. Page 67 in the manual says that will be the case. (The same is true in the NE Dory.) To make the filleting easier take a flat screwdriver blade and press down on the wires in the middle to push them as close to the boat as possible. The copper left in the boat won’t cause any problems down the road as it’s covered inside and out with fiberglass, epoxy, paint and varnish. That being said, you can remove a lot of the buried wires by heating them, the manual shows a heat gun, I prefer holding a soldering iron on the wire, and when the epoxy softens you can pull them out. Again, it’s not necessary and I seldom bother doing it!

George K

���Thanks George, that explains a lot. I have no problem leaving some copper in.

Hey Rick,

I have to disrespectfully disagree.  I think it's relatively important to do smaller diameter tack fillets between the stitches, remove them, then do a full fillet over the top.  Leaving wire in can destroy sandpaper sheets and pads and you can get cut.

Rick,

I've done it both ways on different boats and both work fine. My personal preference is to do tacks and remove the wires, but George is the instructor for the next Tenderly class  so that gives him a certain professional perspective that I don't have.

So I'd say pick whichever you're more comfortable with at your skill level.

Laszlo

���If it's done that way in the Tenderly class it is good for me.

I've never taken one of CLC's classes (wish I could), but it seems to me they might have to take some calculated shortcuts to build a boat in about 5 days (whereas the published build time for the Tenderly hull is 50 hours under ideal circumstances).  I'll happily defer to George for the reason stated above, but if you're not under the same time crunch, I'd do the tack fillet method. 

One of the main reasons I suggest simplifying/breaking down the steps is that building these boats, especially if it's your first time, is difficult enough.  Stacking processes increases the chance of something getting biffed and then you're stuck with the results.  It can also increase the stress, which is against my personal philosophy of boat building.  If slowing down and doing two steps separately almost guarantees success, I wouldn't try to cram them into a single step.  I'm only talking about adding one day to the build.  My $0.02, your mileage may vary...

Good luck with whatever your choose!

���Yeah Captain, that occurred to me too. I am in no hurry. I plan to keep and sail this boat for many years and want to be good with what I put in to her. So far I have embedded some wire and left some to remove. Kind of a hybrid of methods. As with most issues on this project if I let it resolve itself. The long smooth fillets I imagined require stopping to mix more epoxy so that is how it is.

Glad to hear that Rick.  The Tenderly is a really sweet design.  I'm still looking forward to the "Club" version with built in flotation seating.  It reminds me of the dozens of versions of the El Toro you can see if you visit Point Richmond Yacht Club in CA (I used to live there).