JimWhall A bit more info please, which boat, how far into construction is it, or is it a finished boat.

Robert

Sorry, it is a CH16.

You can add an image here.  It does not ask 'to browse to the image' because you have to upload the image to YOUR site and then supply the URL for the image.  If you do not have web space to upload to, go to one of the many photo sites and set up an account there and upload.

An image will enable the experts to give a much better response to your dilemma. 

Kim

Its a finished boat, about 3 years old. I love the thing, which is why this is killing me. It took me over  a year to build it (its my first and only boat thus far).

Anyway, for the CH, take the bottom part of the stern, last 3-4 inches. Where the two botom panels are stiched together and curved almost vertically, and then stiched to the side panels above. It broke along the seam between the twop two panels, and bottom two panels. It also broke horizontally which is what allowed it to dislocate.  Once I get the pics it will be more clear, I hope.

I was hoping to put it back, do and end pour into that section, and once its solid sand and refiberglass.

But:

A) Would there be heat issues with the end pour on a finished boat?

B) How do you sand off the broken glass and then smooth it in the new fiberglass with the existing undamaged fiberglass? Is it possible?

Jim,

My sympothies.  Sounds like a real heart breaker.  I suspect the end pour idea will fix you up.  I also want to plug the value of good end pours.  I was loading my MC 16.5 onto my car by pushing it up onto the racks from the stern.  (This is a good one-man loading method) when the wind caught it.  The boat slid off the side of the racks allowing the bow to drop from roof height of a Ford Expediction to the ground (concrete) while I was holding the stern above my head.  the landing was brutal.  However, thanks to the end pour and a dynel/carbon rub strip the boat suffered neither any breakage nor even a scratch.  Most amazing.

Good luck with your repair and yes, you should be able to feather in the new glass.

Paul G.

You can repair anything that breaks on a wood kayak. See the link below to see what mine looked like after running it through a class 6 rapid. Sadly, most of the images of the rebuild were lost. I did manage to save these few. If you can post a picture or email a few to me showing the damage, I can explain how you can repair it. It won't look perfect but you can get it close.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/14435387@N08/sets/72157614285136341/with/3305510324/

Robert N Pruden

Email me at robertn(dot)pruden(at)gmail(dot)com.

It's been a while, and I was wondering if Jim got his CH16 back in the water.

Jim? Robert?  Can some someone give us a happy ending here?

Oakwood.