Eastport Nesting Pram: rails, strakes, and sheerline

Hello all,

The next step in our Eastport Nesting Pram build is to install the outwales (rails). In doing a dry fit we discovered the two rail pieces to not want to follow the sheer of the strake without applying far more force. With the rail set at the level of the top of the strake at midships the last 16" at the bow and 6"  at the stern are about 3/16" lower.  I'll try to attach a picture or two.   If it makes any difference we will also be installing a spacered inwale.

We could probably force the rail pieces to line up with the strake with more force and a lot of clamping pressure , but won't that result in starving the joints of epoxy?

One option would be to temporarily pin them in place with some screws from the inside. Would the epoxy be enough to keep everytring in place once the screws are removed?

Another option I can see is to let the rail pieces define the sheerline. If that's the way to go it seems to me it would visually be better to have them meet the top of the strake on the ends where they meet the transom, but building up the strake with filler may not look good, though perhaps it would be hidden behind the spacered inwale.

Has anyone else had this issue? How did you solve it?

Thanks,

digger

 

 


3 replies:

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RE: Eastport Nesting Pram: rails, strakes, and sheerline

  Well let's try again to post a picture

RE: Eastport Nesting Pram: rails, strakes, and sheerline

   Third times the charm?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/9scnd5SThXXUtx4z9

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaxohDcCjc5h6U5r9

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Tdvs2Qm6XVHe66ns5

Boy, this forum don't make posting images easy, does it?

digger

RE: Eastport Nesting Pram: rails, strakes, and sheerline

Well, this reply is about 10 months too late to be of any help to the original poster, but others might benefit from my opinion that spring clamps are generally insufficient for the job. They're OK for a quick grab while fitting, but to get that job done, what with all the twist involved, you need about 20 two or three-inch C-clamps per side. 

And don't worry about the epoxy holding. Once it cures (give it at least 12 hours, preferably 24) the joint will be stronger than the wood it's joined.  

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