Popped seam

We're building a Great Auk double from a CLC kit. Buidliing it without staples which exacerbated this problem. Got the hull striped, loosened from the forms and flipped. The deck is now about half done and fumble fingers me dropped my plane into the boat. That broke the seam on the last strip on the hull (so no cove and bead). There's now a gap of up to an 1/8" wide. If I could pull the gap back tight (it runs across 4 forms, I could glue it back together. We tried wrapping the hull with a ratchet strap and then bungee cords, and it helped some, but didn't close it all the way. I'm trying to figure out how to get the leverage to pul it back together. I don't know if I should flip it back over now or pull it off the forms to get better leverage? Let it go until I flip it to plane and sand it and try and deal with it then? Or what else to do. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

 

 

 


8 replies:

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RE: Popped seam

a pictures worth a thousand words....can you post a pic of the problem?

fwiw, when i do strip builts i liberally use glass-reinforced strapping tape for pulling hard-to-pull strips into alignment.  its 'no stretch' property and ability to be placed just where needed was very useful for a number of situations like the one you seem to be talking about.

RE: Popped seam

 Strapping tape is a good idea. If that doesn't work, I'll take some pics and post them in the morning.

RE: Popped seam

Would some edging clamps like these work?  I made my own cheap pair with a regular spring clamp and a 5 inch peice of bicycle inner tube fitted over the ends.

http://www.amazon.com/Rockler-Bandy-Clamp-Pair/dp/B00V3N7RLS/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1453063930&sr=8-7&keywords=edging+clamps

RE: Popped seam

The seam is in the middle of the bottom, so those clamps won't work (but I'm sure I could find other uses for them).  I couldn't get it pulled in with rtched straps or strapping tape, so we flipped the boat, and it magically closed due to it's own weight. I decided to wait, and after I finish striping the deck I'll put in some epoxy and then flip it again - that should do it. I was going to add a pic, but it looks like I need to load it online and have a url and I don't have anything set up for hosting pics right now. 

 

RE: Popped seam

your choice at the end of the day, but i would address your seam problem and then move forward.  you can force wood glue into the crack and then flip it over to close it.

the reason i mention this is that, as you can see, there are stresses and very small flexes that occur in the hull.  the more you build, the more locked in the shapes get.  so even though you are working on the deck now, there may be little flexes/bends that are occurring as a result of the seam being popped....which means your deck will potentially also have a tiny distortion.  as you lock these in...it may get harder to address later or parts that you thought fit tightly (e.g., hull/deck seam), won't when you finally address the problem.

i would also call out a change in weather and humidity as a risk.  until you glass both sides of the hull, your hull is breathing and moving slightly.  the 'easy to address' crack today can get worse.   so why wait until later to find out that simply turning over the boat no longer works?

anyway....just my 2 cents.

h

 

 

 

RE: Popped seam

   NIck has a video on his site where he hot glues a couple of small blocks just eather side of the split seam. glues and then uses a clamp on the blocks to pull the seam together.  once the glue sets, he uses a small block plain to plane the blocks off and a bit or sand paper for final cleanup.  

 

Ed

RE: Popped seam

   NIck has a video on his site where he hot glues a couple of small blocks just eather side of the split seam. glues and then uses a clamp on the blocks to pull the seam together.  once the glue sets, he uses a small block plain to plane the blocks off and a bit or sand paper for final cleanup.  

 

Ed

RE: Popped seam

   Thanks H and Ed. We'll go ahead and make the repair before we complete the deck

 

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