Jim,

"Minimum vehicle" can mean different things to different people.  Auto and truck manufacturers state the towing capacity of their products (in pounds in the U.S.).  For example, my 2003 MINI Cooper is rated at 1500 pounds which is twice what I need for my Peeler Skiff and trailer.  The car has a manual transmission and excellent 4-wheel disk brakes.  I believe that you need to look at the following factors:

1. Rated towing capacity - leave a safe margin especially if you need to operate in hilly or mountainous terrain
2. Brakes - emergency stopping is very important and drum brakes don't work well when wet
3. Visibility - you'll need a wide enough vehicle to be able to use (and/or mount) side mirrors that are able to see around the boat
4. Axle height and ground clearance - you need to be able to back down a ramp far enough to launch and retrieve the boat and saltwater is tough on wheel bearings

I hope this helps a little.

Cheers!

Dual axels and only 2,000 pounds is border line.  My 3,000# skiboat has double but the 2600# CC does not.  Either way consult your state dot regs on trailers to see if trailer brakes are mandatory for that weight and/or number of axels.

 Pulling a trailer is usually easy. Stopping a trailer and controlliing it in turns at speed is where tow vehicles seperate themselves. A short vehicle may pull a load but if the load can "wag the dog" under some conditions. For example excess speed, slick pavement and a interstate exit ramp. Or for example, too  light a tounge weight will cause towing problems.    

Cross winds can wag a light, short tow vehicle more  if the boat has a lot of windage.

Front wheel drive will pull a lot of trailers. But is a disadvantage at the ramp if the ramp is steep, covered with low tide slime, or sandy. The load generally shifts aft. Which may lift weight off the drive wheels...........Rear wheel drive limited slip differential is prefered.  Four wheel drive is great but generally not necessary.

   I have found that if a load is matched to the tow vehicle's towing weight rating, there is usually no problem. If you plan to tow in a mountainous area rather than a flat area like Florida then you don't necessarily need more towing capacity but more power. That's why vehicles with a towing package have an axle ratio different from the same vehicle without a towing package. Also, are you towing on state roads and city streets or interstates?  That large flat front on the boat will put up a lot of wind resistance at highway speeds needing more power to overcome and increased fuel usage. Another consideration is a longer trailer is easier to control in reverse than a shorter one.  That looks like a nice boat for protected waters. Good luck. Use marine plywood. Correct mistakes when you make them. Little errors compound into big problems as your build proceeds. 

I agree 100% with everything said above, but will add one comment...   I have a utility trailer set up to carry 2 full size motorcycles that has a 3,000# capacity, and 15" tires...two large road bikes and some gear dont weigh anywhere near 3,000#, more in the 2,000# range like your boat.  My thought is that perhaps you dont need a double axle trailer...you likely know that a double axle trailer bring all sorts of other issues over a single axle.  I dont know about where you live but in this part of Texas there are companies that make trailers from scratch for a lot less than you can buy one from a trailer company, and it will be customized excatly to your needs, like bigtextrailers.com.

Maybe a flat trailer  like a utility trailer with wood decking and a mounting above the tires,...regardless of what trailer you end up with it's that 8' beam that will require that your boat go above the wheels instead of betwen them and still stay under the 96"-102" trailer width limit eh?

Curt

8 foot beam............if that pushes the wheels out farther you may fall under your state's oversize load limits. Little known but often abused this requirement may limit you to day time only. .......if anybody checks.    

PS......sometimes I tow the boat with a lawn tractor or a powered dolly. 

 These are all great tips, and thank you! I knew I could count on this gang for useful information. I do plan to either modify an existing used trailer or build (or have built) a new one to plans, with the flat deck over the wheels in order to accommodate the 8-foot beam within the 102-inch trailer width limit. I've towed four kayaks on a trailer and carried two more on the roof of my hearty little Jetta TDI wagon, from New Jersey to Maine and back numerous times, but I don't think what I have is up to this task! Thanks again, and I'll keep you all posted on progress and developments!

Jim 

 And by the way, yes, absolutely marine plywood. The design calls for a combination of 1/2- and 3/8-inch, with the 1/2 used for the outer hull parts and 3/8 used for the inner "egg crate" frame and the outer walls of the house. I see on the web that meranti ply is said to be stiffer, tougher, heavier and a little less expensive than okoume, and I was thinking of using that for the outer hull parts, both for its reputed toughness and also to keep heavier weight down low in the boat.Anyone have any experience with meranti? Is it an oilier wood than okoume, meaning will it accept epoxy as well as okoume? I know almost nothing about this meranti...  

I have a 2008 Subu Forester which has a towing capacity of 2500 lbs.--per manual.  Brought a 1425 lb boat from Florida to Michigan, north on I-65 which has a mixture of terrain;  gas milage dropped  by about 4mpg overall.   For the most part never new the boat trailer was back there--well behaved.   You really don't need that "mega" truck to get you there.

   Meranti (often sold as Hydrotek) works fine as a marine ply. It splinters fiercely when cut, is heavier, but is more impact resistant and just stronger.