Tom,

I used 4 oz cloth and ended up 1 lb less than the design weight. 6 oz glass would add about 3.5 oz/sq yard (resin included) to the total weight, so it would take over 4 sq/yards of 6 instead of 4 to get it up to design weight.

 For minimum weight, don't fill the weave on the inside (except where you need it for comfort).

Laszlo

Hi Tom,

I built my WD12 hybrid from plans and had the same problem. It took me a full eight hour day to hot glue the forms in place.

You do need to bevel the edges to get them to fit into the bow and stern.  I had trouble fitting the forms to the hull at the proper station without deforming the shape of the hull.

In the end I cheeted on the location of some forms by as much as 3 or 4 inches. Mainley the forms near the bow and stern.

I did not bevel the tops of any forms for the strips.

That was a long hard day with lots of fustration, but in the end it all worked out

Lou

www.louskayakworks.blogspot.com

Thanks Lou,

I'll search your blog for any pictures and comments about this.

I also like your greenland paddle. I built two while I was waiting for my wood to arrive. One is about 83in with a knuckle transition to the loom and the other is about 86in with a more pronounced shoulder. Haven't used either yet since I don't have a kayak yet but let a friend use one and he didn't like it. I really don't trust his comments until I try it for myself. I don't think he's a true believer in the greenland paddle, he's a plastic guy through and through.

 Thanks

Flats,

You should not need to bevel the edges of the forms.  The intent is that the moldline side of each mold is the side away from midships.  that edge will give the right shape at the right location.  The only contact with the hull and deck will be at that edge.  The edge closer to midships will not contact the hull.

It is not uncommon to have to adjust the location of some molds  in order to get a fair hull.  Keep adjusting the locations untill all is fair and you have moved from the design locations as little as possible.

Good luck and happy building.

Paul

Copy, so the outward vertical edge of the mold is the only part that is in contact with the hull.  I guess there isn't enough camber in the deck to need to bevel the mold tops to get flush contact to staple the strips to. I'm still glassing so I'll figure it out here soon.

 Thanks

Hey Tom.  I'm building the conventionasl Wood Duck-12.  But I'm writing to tell you, while awaiting my kit, I too, built a Greenland paddle.  A friend came over with two plastic (gag.....) kayaks and we paddled on the Napa River (Northern California).  I used my new Greenland and also tried his wife's conventional paddle for comparison.  .  I far prefer the Greenland version.    Enjoy... ~TUGBRUCE~