Yes, you will need to glue up scarf joints to extend the length of the strips.  In Nick Schade book shows you how to do this. 

I used a sanding station disk with a 1 to 7 ratio scarf joint.  I used a board as a straight edge clamped to the little sanding disk table at the 1 to 7 ratio.

You can also create your own little miter box to duplicate the 1 to 7 angle cut.

Not a dumb question!

Depending on your strip design, you'll be surprised how few full-length strips you actually need.  Usually a couple of strips around the sheerline of a Nymph Canoe are the only strips that need to be full-length. Simple scarf joints serve to give you the length you need.  The rest may all be butt-joined.  (The strips serve as core material to the inner and outer skins of fiberglass.)  

Because of the irregular shape of a canoe or kayak, few strips actually extend very far before running obliquely into another strip.  

As a practical matter, finding timber that runs clear for 15 or 16 feet is getting extremely hard.  Then, SHIPPING long, noodly strips without damage can be nearly insurmountable.  Luckily, all of the beautiful designs work well with shorter lengths of strips.

A read of Nick's very detailed Nymph assembly instructions is highly recommended:

Building Strip Planked Boats

I still like to scarf the joints. I scarf them on the sander and glue the scarfs on the boat with a little spring clamp and wax paper for protection

Thanks gents - great pictures and advice!