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Re: the basic seat with the kit, foam glued to bottom of boat. So I'm not so sure this is going to be comfortable enough but i'm willing to try it. However i'm concerned that if I glue it in , it will be a disaster to try to get out if i want to try something else. Any thoughts? i thought about some kind of velcro or two -sided tape temporary thing that i could later peel out if i need to .
Re; varnish. So the hull is all epoxied and I'm ready to do the sanding and 4-6 coats of varnish (depending on who you talk to).
i'd like an explanation of what all this varnish really provides besides a finish that really looks amazing. That is indeed a virtue in itself but is it really necessary for the performance, longevity , durablity of the boat. This boat will be used perhaps 30 days a year and be stored in-doors.
Thanks as usual!
Michael
4 replies:
RE: clc17 kayak-seat/varnish
Oops...
You need to varnish. Epoxy has no UV protection and the varnish is used to protect the fiberglass and epoxy. Four coats should be a minimum.
RE: clc17 kayak-seat/varnish
Michael,
First the seat. Look back thru recent posts on this site and you will find several discussions on seats. The problem with the kit tractor seat is largely the lack of thigh support. The result is numb legs after as little as 15 minutes.
I, and several othersrecently, as you will see if you read these have carved a seat out of 3" closed cell f0am. You can make the seat deep enough fore and aft to come clear up under your knees. I am now paddling 1 1/2 - 2 1/2 hours with no problem.
If you want to try the kit seat, attach it with a couple of velcro tabs, or double-side tape if you prefer. You definitely will be moving it around to get it in the right position so DO NOT glue it in unless you are really sure you like it and that it is in the right place. If you carve the seat out of foam you can make it fit between the hip braces and under the hip pads so that friction alone will hold it in place.
Varnish: As dehager said above, you need the varnish for UV protection of the epoxy. I think the literature actually says a minimum of 3 coats. If you are wet sanding between coats you are removing some of what you put on so more is good. I have 5 coats on one boat and 6 on the other. This is hard to do because you will be almost done with the boat and after every coat you will think "I could be done now!!" Be patient. It will pay off in longevity.
Happy building and paddling.
Paul
RE: clc17 kayak-seat/varnish
re: the removable seat idea. I'm building a CH18 and thinking about gluing the kit seat pad to a piece of 4mm ply, then glue in two low profile rails on the bottom of the boat. I would use velcro on the rails and the plywood seat pan, so the seat is removable for modifications and seat changes. What I like about this that there would be a channel under the seat pan for any residual water to go rather than have the seat dam it up. Might make the rails 2-3 inches longer in front so the seat could be move for and aft a bit or allow for a longer seat design.
RE: clc17 kayak-seat/varnish
» Submitted by dehager - Sun, 6/13/10 » 7:27 PM
Lots of good information in here:
http://www.clcboats.com/shoptips/