Shearwater S&G Construction Notes

I have posted some notes and photos on my experience building a CLC Shearwater 17 S&G kit on my blog site. I hope it will help new builders avoid some of the mistakes I made. It also includes some new ideas and deviations from the instructions that have worked out well. You can view this post at 

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RE: Shearwater S&G Construction Notes

Thanks for these great building notes and photos, TFA!   As one who has recently started on a (building from plans) Shearwater 17 S&G I found it all particularly informative.   The end product of your labours certainly looks great, and I only wish that Down Here (Oz) I could obtain some of that lovely sapele timber for the deck.  


Your comments about the hull-to-deck jointing process were very interesting as I'll be at that stage within a week or two, at most.   I have read many other comments on this site about how tricky and fiddly - not to say inefficient - the recommended process is, and how much wasted and excess material can be used.   I've taken a different approach, but won't talk about it now until it's proven - a cuppla weeks should tell the tale!


But well done - and again thanks for the report.   Enjoy paddling it!



RE: Shearwater S&G Construction Notes

I don't think anybody should fear the CLC system for attaching the deck to the hull. It's the messiest job of the whole project, but it's not at all difficult and it results in a strong and lightweight joint. Remember, this joint is not visible after it's done. Just spread the thickened epoxy along the seam with your gloved fingers and, while it's still soft, roll the saturated glass tape over it and smooth it out with your gloved fingers. As you smooth the tape, it automagically smooths the fillet. Be sure to wear long sleeves and plan to toss out your shirt when you're done.

RE: Shearwater S&G Construction Notes

great notes...

I just finished a WD-12 and the attachment of the top deck to the hull was not as difficult as i imagined.

here is a tip. sounds crazy but i went to the local farm/AG dealer and purchased shoulder length examination gloves.... yes odd as it may sound. it worked. only got the epoxy in my hair...

RE: Shearwater S&G Construction Notes

G’day, TFA.   Can you help me with the following, please?   I have the deck and sheer panels assembled, and stitched together, with the temporary under-deck forms in-place.   The deck in front of the cockpit now has a heavy camber in it from the front temporary form – looks good!  

  My question – when it came to the ‘welding’ or tacking of the deck for the first time, when it’s temporarily put in-place on top of the hull (also being tacked at the same time), was there a lot of spring-back from the deck when you removed the wires after the fillets had cured?   I have visions of the deck more-or-less flattening out when I take out the wires from that temporary form.   If so, is it then a problem to get it to conform to the curved permanent bulkhead when it’s put back on for the final time?  I also envisage the spring-back (if any) affecting the overall deck shape, which of course will then be locked in place with the under-deck glassing before the lid is attached to the hull for the final – VERY final! – time: did you experience this?  Would much appreciate your guidance.  




RE: Shearwater S&G Construction Notes

Your's is a legitimate concern. I wrapped the deck assembly with the nylon straps that I use to lash my kayaks to the roof rack to keep it from spreading. It still spread somewhat when I took off the straps, which I fixed by simply removing the overhang with a belt sander. You might try wrapping the deck assembly with packing tape, which can be left in place until you have finished wiring the deck to the hull, then just cut off.

RE: Shearwater S&G Construction Notes

OK - many thanks, TFA.   I could see something like this happening, but now I'm prepared!   Using straps is a good idea - I have plenty.


Enjoy the craft.



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