Do you plan to paint, or finish bright? If paint, sand smooth to the touch, remembering that any lumps will not be smoothed over by fiberglass and will be impossible to remove later without sanding through the fiberglass. If bright, any whitish color in the cel-o-fill will read through the fiberglass forever. Good luck.

Jim 

 You won't be able to remove the bumps without sanding through the glass, but if they are low enough you can fair them, if you're painting. That doesn't involve sanding through the glass.

But you might as well just get into the sanding mindset. It's not that bad on the exterior.

Have fun,

Laszlo

Dear Sawfish. Be careful to not touch the surrounding wood when sanding spots of hardened epoxy. The surrounding wood is much softer than the epoxy glue and you will create dents in the wood while sanding easily. You will have to fill them afterwards if you don't want them to show up through a paintjob. Filling them with thickened epoxy prior to bright finish will make them show up like Jim says. If the dents are superficial you could fill them with several layers of lacquer locally and sand in between layers but this normally is a specialist job. Better to surround the spots with hardened epoxy with some layers of masking tape to protect the surrounding wood surface and sand the epoxy off carefully... Cheers HJ

���hey guys...wouldn't this be a good time for a sharp cabinet scraper?

��Offcourse!

��Just be careful not to damage the surrounding wood...😉

   use something flat...a flat block of wood with sandpaper pulled tightly against it..it keeps everything flat, even on curves...try a file as well..use long movements to blend the high spots down

wetsanding with water, soap and water (clean well before next coat) naptha, or wool lube will make it alot easier and faster...take the time to sand as perfectly as possible because you will appreciate it so much in the end.  Especially you are going for a gloss finish, you will see everything and you want even want to look at the thing.  

I've lucked into a great tool for avoiding the differential sanding issue with epoxy and bare wood. Some folks use a sharp cabinet scraper, which is a great tool but it loses its burr almost instantly on contact with thickened epoxy. Try instead a carbide bladed paint scraper. It sounds frightening but the carbide lasts about forever against epoxy and the long handle gives great control. You can skew at will, change angle of attack and all kinds of variations to focus material removal precisely. I have several now, in various sizes. The most useful has a slightly cambered (arched) blade. It is great for feathering glass edges and lots more.

I use them and they work like a charm. Easy to handle, much better then a ordinary cabinet scraper. Safer too, because they won't dig into the wood as easy.

   If you're cleaning the odd lump of epoxy from bare wood, I've found that a few seconds with a heat gun and that lump will pop right off with a scraper. Not much residue is left and sanding will blend that well. The effectiveness of the heat gun makes me glad I won't be using my boat in the Persian Gulf.