Chesapeake 17LT Dan-Fl

Two Questions,

On the video, it talks about finishing with a fibreglass patch to stern(ass end) of the hull.  I find nothing about it in the book or on the video other than a passing mention.  I have sanded mine so there is a proper round on the aft stern but should I fibreglass a piece over this?


End Pours

I will probably use West System epoxy here, should I do with boat horizontal and make dams, or place boat in a vertical position and pour.  Better to do several pours or one large one?


I appreciate all the assistance, my boat is looking surprisingly good. The hull looks so good with two coats of epoxy I am reconsidering painting and thinking about urethane.


5 replies:

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RE: Chesapeake 17LT Dan-Fl


I put a 4oz glass patch over my "tail end."  I cut the glass on a 45 degree bias and it molded itself over the sharp curve extremely well.  It runs all the way up to the deck and forward on the keel about 8 inches.  The 4oz glass simply sealed the end (where my 6oz wouldn'neatly wrap around) and will be easier to sand.  I don't plan on hitting anything with the back end!

As to the end pours, I used cardboard damms; others here will recommend the verticle approach.  Personally, I couldn't find a verticle location inside that would accommodate 17 feet of boat!  A little hint on the damms, use lots of clear tape because if your epoxy is runny at all it'll come through and trail it's way down the center line (don't ask how I know).  I did several pours on mine; they do tend to get very hot (as in, can't touch the side of the boat for more than a few seconds).  One other thing I did was to scoop / spread any extra epoxy from other tasks (like filleting bulkheads) into the ends as I built.  My final pour was  1.5 cups of epoxy, and almost a quart of micro-ballons.  The 1/4 inch left at the top was easy to fill with thickened epoxy when I put the decks on.

Great fun, eh?  I'm sanding my deck/hull and looking for a nice day to cut my coaming to shape (carbon fiber - you can see it on my post "Chesapeak 17 (LT modified)".  I've been keeping a running narrative and photos (mostly for future reference, as I might build a smaller one for my wife).

Good luck, post pics if you can,


RE: Chesapeake 17LT Dan-Fl

The first time I tried to make the patch, I used 6 oz cloth, but didn't cut the cloth on the bias. It was a real pain getting it to lay down flat and stick. For the next attempt, I used 6 oz cloth cut on the bias, and it worked out OK.

I made the end pours a little at a time using a cardboard dam. Like Larry, every time I had extra epoxy, I put it into the ends as I built. Finally, I did several small pours on each end, instead of one large pour.


RE: Chesapeake 17LT Dan-Fl

Dan --

I'll second (well, third) what Larry and Mark say, and add a couple of comments.  I made my dam from scrap 3 mm okoume which I epoxied into place prior to making the end pours, and let it cure, just so I wouldn't have a leakage problem.  That also allowed me to use the easier horizontal position (that is, the 'yak was horizontal, not me).  The approach worked well.

I made the mistake of trying to make the end pours in one large pour.  The epoxy went sufficiently exothermic that it started bubbling, and cured with bubbles in it.  I think doing it as a series of small pours would be wiser, and would also give you a good use for excess epoxy which might be left at the end of some other task.

RE: Chesapeake 17LT Dan-Fl


I made an okoume dam like Dan and did several small pours (also with West).  I taped the dam in.  If I had it to do over, I would epoxy it in place, as even though I used a lot of tape, I did have a little bit of leakage.  As I mentioned on another post, I made my end pours larger than the plan.  :-(  I used mostly epoxy slightly thickened with wood flour and added small pieces into the goo inside the end pours to take up volume and save on epoxy.

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