Rmballou,

As a builder of a CLC kit, it is my opinion that CLC kits do contain sufficient epoxy to successfully construct the kit. The problem is that when one builds their first stitch-and-glue kit one tends to apply too much epoxy. That does not make a stronger or more durable boat, but rather a heavier one.

I made that mistake on my first stitch-and-glue boat, but in doing that was able to learn what the very thorough CLC manual was trying to teach me. I no longer waste epoxy, either on the boat or left in the mixing container.

Sometimes, experience does not come for free.

Regards,

Dick

   Don't kick yourself over having to use more epoxy, especially on the first build. As Dick notes, you'll get more efficient with experience, both in the work, and knowing how much to mix.  I think I found the way to save the most eoxy was to get just as many things ready for epoxy as possible at one time.  So if it takes 1 hour to get 1 "thing" formed/sanded/stitched/whatever prior to being reay for epoxy, and then 1 hour to get the epoxy work to get that "thing" completed, don't spend 2 hours completing that thing, then 2 hours start-to-finsih completing the next thing, etc..  Better to spend 3 or 4 hours to get all the prep work on 3 or 4 "things," then in the next work session spend the time doing all the epoxy work on those things.  And you'll find that it won't take 3-4 hours to do the epoxy on the 3 or 4 things if it might have taken an hour to do each independently.  You'll have only one prep time to get out the cups and gloves and etc., and one clean up time, and most importantly you'll always have something to do with what is "leftover" in the cup upon completion of one part (you just move to the next part) until finally you might have a little leftover on your last cup as you finish the last part.  I know my description might be a little hard to follow, and you can sometimes substitute "step" for "part" or whatever.  But the basic concept is to have a whole lot of epoxy work lined up to do all at one time - saves both time and epoxy.  NOTE: This method does sometimes require more tables and lay-down areas. 

Thanks for your thoughtful replies. This is my 3rd build. Previously I constructed a NE Dory from CLC and an 18 ft Center Console Marissa from B&B yacht design. I did not have a shortage of epoxy on either. My interest is if anyone else has had a shortage building the Lighthouse Peapod. 
I know I was too liberal with the epoxy and indeed wasted some during the build but can't quite justify being a gallon short. I still have the seats , floorboards, tiller, and rig to epoxy. I'm thinking of only applying only  one coat from here.

I'm in Massachusetts and it's winter. Although I keep the resin in the house it does sit in a 50 degree barn while I get ready to use. I've noticed that it mixes a lot thicker now than in the summer. Could this be the reason as it doesn't spread as easily? I heat the barn before epoxying but it only gets to 55 - 60 degrees.

   I meant to say it doesn't spread as easily perhaps this is the reason I came up so short.

hi rmballou,

you will definitely use more epoxy if it is relatively cold.  i have built during the winter and i have learned some tough lessons.  my perspective is i always keep the epoxy inside which is 70 degrees or better and before mixing/applying it.   you can also use heatlamps to keep your epoxy warm outside.  fwiw, my preferred working temperature for the epoxy is in the high 70s.

while the epoxy container will give a low temperature threshold (e.g., not below x degrees) i would stay well above the lower threshold.

this will significantly enhance its spreadability/reduce its viscosity and improve the quality of the mix and enhance its strength/cure.   

h

   Thanks h,

I think  the colder/ more viscous resin is the problem! I'll make some temp changes.  I've allowed the hardener to get very cold. I'll heat that up as well.

   I came up short too on my Peapod.  I didn't know what to expect on the iinsde of the hull and added more. I also mixed too much in the begining until I learned better.

Dean

   My first build was a WD12 and I used at least twice what was sent with the kit. My second was a Peeler skiff which I was able to finish with the epoxy provided.

Lower temps definitely make it hard to spread but keeping the components warm in a "hot box" helps a great deal. Also, mixing smaller batches cuts waste can make a big difference over a build.

Filling the weave uses quite a bit of product and accounts for a lot of waste. I found it helpful to lightly sand after the second and subsequent coats to highlight the low spots to concentrate your attention.

I've never had the viscosity problem where cold makes me use more epoxy simply because I grew up in Southern California before I moved east of the Mississippi. When Eastern Winter arrives I put away my boat tools and retreat into my warm cave to hibernate until the thaw. Bears are really smart.

+1 to catboater's technique of sanding between coats to target epoxy application to the low spots. I'll also add applying very thin coats of epoxy - the thinner the better. Like 3 ounces for the whole kayak thin (use a roller). Lots of very thin coats are much better than 3 thick ones, especially if they're targeted to the low spots. Not only does it save epoxy, it keeps drips from forming and reduces your sanding time.

Another way to save on epoxy is to take catboater's other observation to heart and work out how you're going to finish the boat (varnish, paint, graphite/epoxy, etc.). For any area that will be covered by an opaque coating, use unthickened epoxy only for wetting out the glass, never for filling the weave. For that use epoxy/microballoon mix. It uses less epoxy and is much, much easier to sand.

Finally, pre-impregnate your glass. For glass tape, roll it up, put it into a jar of epoxy to soak some up, squeeze it in a gloved hand until it's wet out and then unroll it onto the fillet in the boat. Doing it this way uses only 1/4 - 1/3 the epoxy that applying the glass and then epoxying it does.

You can do the same for sheets of glass. Lay some polypropylene painter's tarp material onto a large flat work surface, lay the glass onto that, wet it out with the epoxy and then pick it up and put it onto the wood. A helper is very useful. Once the glass is down, lay the next piece of glass onto the work surface, let it blot the still liquid epoxy leftovers and only add as much new as you need. With slow hardener and Spring/Fall temps you can stretch your epoxy 2 - 4 times as far as before.

Laszlo

<my preferred working temperature for the epoxy is in the high 70s.>

Hi Hspira,   

Do you find that the epoxy sets up rather quickly when the temperature is above 75 degrees or so?  If so, how do you manage it?  With small batches?

Thanks!

Mike

fwiw, i find the high 70s is a great balance point between working time and avoiding other problems.

my approach is i always use slow hardener as a start.  the extra time is worth it even if i am not working at high temperatures.

most importantly, get it out of the cup/container as fast as you can so there is no big ball of epoxy to kick-off unexpectedly.  working with smaller batches can help with this....but i would say getting it out of the container after it is properly mixed is the most important skill.   pouring it off or working in a shallow pan can also help in this respect.

i do also keep a cheap thermometer in my work area and try to keep notes on my mix and my working time to develop a base line and learn.   you will develop experience over time....its part of the process of working with epoxy.

hope that is helpful.

h