First, let me say that because of the high angle at which the rudder is hinged, the NE Dory does leave a bit to be desired.  The further you put the rudder over, the greater proportion of "down" force (as opposed to left or right) you get out of the rudder - which equates to extra drag without adding any more inclination to turn.  So in all cases it is best to not try to turn with excessive rudder, especially at low speed.  That's just a design fact and nothing you can do about it without changing the angle at which the rudder hinges, which would require some sort of fancy offset lower gudgeon bracket or something.  Although sometimes nearly frustrated enough to think about designing something, I haven't done anything yet.

From the very get-go the rudders on the NE Dory looked insufficient to me, the kick up maybe having slightly more wetted area than the standard.  That being the case, during initial construction I got myself an extra piece of plywood and built myself a larger kick up rudder blade.  Maybe about 14 inches wide (to match the rudder cheeks), but much deeper - maybe 24 inches long or more (with a "flat" (not rounded) bottom, so that the depth almost matches the depth of the dagger board. My rudder is sort of trapezoid shaped with a rounded portion on top where it rotates in the cheeks. I made it at the same time I made the stock kick-up rudder blade, but I've never gone back and installed the stock blade for comparison, I've just stuck with my larger, self-designed blade.  I think it helps to solve the problem: I can come bout at near zero speed.

Even if you don't make a different rudder blade (though I recommend it), learn to use some other "tricks" to help you tack."  Head off for a little while before tacking to increase boat speed, then ...gradually... steer up through the wind, slowly increasing the rudder angle as you do so (but still don't oversteer with this rudder, as I said, that starts adding more drag than turning impetus).  Also, as you start to round up trim the mainsail in very tight - that also helps you head up, and meanwhile let the boat heel significantly to leward - the bow shape of the heeled boat also helps you head up.  After you pass head to wind hold the rudder angle still and continue to allow your rottional intertia to keep the turn happening, until you've fallen off even past your close hauled course on the new tack (maybe an extra 10 degrees). Importantly, ease the main sheet immediatly after passing head to wind and keep the main sail absolutley luffing until you've passed by your new close hauled course, on only then begin to trim in. Trimming in at this point will help give you a little push to regain some speed.  As you pick up speed, straighten everythig out, ease up onto the close hauled course, trim the sails and steer appropriately.  

Good luck. I'd go for the kick-up rudder for sure, and maybe build yourself a bigger (deeper not wider) blade.  Then add in the tacking "finesse" techniques and you should be fine.

Fantastic. Great info.

I agree about the increased drag... I've noticed a hard over rudder angle does drag a LOT and kind of stalls me out. Maybe I just need a softer touch, coupled w those mainsail technique.  Interesting idea about the leeward heel  too.

Curious about the rudder mount angle idea. I have the stock rudder on their now, maybe if I make a new kick up I can play w the mount too. Sounds like more wetted area w less drag is needed. Good winter project!

Thanks for the reply!

I'm interested in hearing from  more NED sailer experiences. Currently she's been turned into my dingy (fantastic rowing and hailing btw) but I need to get some more sail time in.  It has turned out to be a nice little fishing rig too!

   Depending on conditions, I will let the jib (Sloop rig) back for about a second or so when coming about.  Release windward sheet, trim leward one, all very quickly.

   I weigh about 150 pounds and always sit (facing forward) on the rearr thwart when I sail my dory. Some will object that the stern drags if you do so, but I don't find that to be the case. You can see my dory "planing" in the video entitled "Does the Northeaster Dory Plane?" near the bottom of CLC's information page on the boat.

A heavier skipper might need to rig a seat a little further forward, but getting the stern down a little and the bow up a trifle helps the boat get up on a plane and gives the rudder more purchase in all wind conditions.

Jeff