Hi AZ_Mike,

I have installed Nash Boat Works skegs on several boats.  They are a great piece of equipment.  Very high quality and amazingly sturdy and reliable.

As to your first question….

Folks have been known to differ on skeg location but I have installed mine on the keel line and it in no way is going to weaken the boat.   To the extent that folks mount it off centerline, the reason cited is typically to minimize the chance of sand getting up into the skeg box jamming the unit.   Fwiw. In over 15 years of using this skeg on the centerline….i have never had a problem with jamming.   fwiw, i also have never had any of these ever leak or otherwise fail or disapoint.

On your other questions….. 

Yes, you should glass over the fillet where the skeg box meets the hull.

From a construction perspective I have typically installed after the hull has been filleted and glassed.  My reason for this is that I want the hull shape fixed prior to the installation of the skeg…..I do not want to try to cut a skeg hole on moving panels.

My other suggestion is after you cut the hole for the skeg box….and after dry fitting, paint the exposed wood of the hull created by the hole with unthickened epoxy to ensure there is no exposed end grain that could allow water into your plywood. 

After you have done that, then go ahead with your fillets ensuring you are applying enough pressure so that there are no voids/gaps between the hole you cut and the edge of the skeg box that is against the edge of the hole.  So these fillets I typically set up a bit creamier/softer to ensure it fills the voids.  apply your glass onto the fillets after they firm up but before they have fully cured....and it will be bomb-proof.

Hope that is helpful.

h

another point i wanted to make....just to be totally clear.

i do install teh skeg before the deck is mated to the hull.....   i am also careful after the installation to sand over the fillet and then gently probe to ensure no sharp pieces of glass are created from the glass over the fillet. 

it absolutely sucks to have a sharp edge inside your kayak and that is something that you should inspect all fillets for.

h

Hspira,  Thank you!  I didn't think of the flopping bottom panels if the cutting, etc were done prior to filleting...   

Where have you installed the control box?  On the deck makes it easy to see and access when wearing a spray skirt.  Under the deck removes the obstacle from the deck when performing re-entry.

Mike

   Hi Hspira, Please ignore my question on the control box mounting.  I hadn't looked at this closely when I sent the question, sorry.  I see now that the control box is recessed into the deck.  Mike

Hi Mike, 

the picture below is where i typically do the install (you can open the picture in a new window and enlarge it).  it typically is a bit back (towards the stern) from the front of the combing.  my objective in positoning it is to position it so it is easy to reach...and in a position that promotes keeping your balance.  for me that is a slight forward reach/on the right side. 

this particular control box has litte risk of snagging anything (unless they changed it from the last time i bought one which is about a year ago) as it is basically flush to the outer skin/surface of the kayak.  that said, for this installation, you have to ensure you have space on the inside of the boat (because it creates a little bulge on the inside of the skin....and it won't interfere with hip pads that typically are right by your hips.

happy to answer any other questions.

h

Hspira,   

Thank you!  That is a beautiful boat!  

Mike

   Hi Hspira,

Do you install the skeg after glassing and epoxying the inside of the boat but before glassing and epoxying the outside of the hull?  Or do you install the skeg after glassing and epoxying the outside of the hull?

Thanks!

Mike

Hi Mike, 

most important, to the extent possible, i try to do the installation of the skeg box and control box prior to the hull being attached to the deck (its just a lot easier to see what you are doing and actually do your work when its open).

usually by the time i start skeg box (the part in the hull) installation work, the inside and the outside of the hull has already gotten its first layer of glass inside and out.  however, i often do some additional layers of glass on the outside along the bow and stern keel lines for additional abrasion resistence ....and will often delay additional layers until after i have the skeg box in place.....this way, if i goof something up on cutting my skeg box hole, its easy to fix.

on a boat like a Chesapeake 17, you can't really install the control box (the part on the deck) until the deck is in place (on a strip build you can).   and i often install the skeg control box prior to glassing the deck (especially on a deck where i am using the deck glass as the deck/hull seam)...though sometimes i have also done it after glassing the deck.

while a bit confusing....as i look over above...i guess the final thought is think ahead if you can and decide what appears to be most convenient approach relative to the anticipated assembly order.

i hope my thoughts on the question are ultimately helpful.

h

Hi Hspira,

Thank you!  

I purchased the dynel rub strip kit.  I live in Arizona and the shore line is often rocky.  I am hoping the dynel strips provide a little more protection for the keel.

Mike 

Hi Mike, 

thought i would share a picture with you of one of my builds (hybrid night heron) with dynel strips on bow and stern (the black....and hard to see on the stern in this pic).

the skeg will almost certainly be inboard (ahead) of the stern rubstrip.   the skeg installation was complete prior to dynel rubstrip installation 

h

   Hspira,

Thank you for posting the picture.  That is a beautiful boat!!  I like the look of the rub strip on the bow.

Mike

   Hi Hspira,

I have the slot cut for the skeg box.  The box fits snugly in the slot.  The front of the box hangs down below the outside of the hull in the front when the box is on the flanges.  It is above the outside bottom of the hull in the rear.  Do you set the box on the flanges and sand or cut the box flush with the outside of the hull?  Or do you pull up on the box so it is flush with the outside of the hull and not sittng on the flange?

Also, you mentioned that you mix the epoxy a little creamier so as to fill all of the volume between the box and the hull.  Do you ever apply the epoxy on the outside between the box and the hull?  Or is there too much chance of getting epoxy inside the box?

Thank you for all of your help on this boat!

Mike

   Your post is a little confusing and a picture might help.  How wide is the slot you have cut into the bottom?  Is it as wide as the box or as wide as the flange?    It sounds like your slot is as only wide as the box.   If so,  and the flange is causing problems simply cut the flange off and install the box so that its front edge is flush with the bottom (Once the box is fully installed you can grind/sand the box flush with the bottom).  With this approach you can hold the box in its position with masking tape, flip the hull upright and then fillet and glass the box in place.

Hi Az,

i am assuming when you say 'flange' above you are referring to the bumps on the skeg box holding the metal axle in place that the skeg hooks on.

that said, and i am assuming you are using the nash boat system discussed earlier in this thread, the bottom of the box will be slightly proud of the hull.  so after you glue the box in place, you need to come through with a sanding block and smooth this out which means you will cut into the skeg box to get rid of the excess.

the key thing is while the box will be proud of the hull, it can't be so much proud that when you trim it back, you expose the skeg itself.

what i do is insert the skeg into the box and push it up into the closed position to get a sense of how much extra box there is .....which then tells you how much of the box can extend past the hull (and allow you to trim it back) while keeping everything working properly.

my sense based on past experience is you have probaly 3 to 4 millimeters of excess box you can sand off after installation without mucking things up.

so in summary, when the box is glued in

1. it should extend below the hull a little bit (subject to being able to keep the skeg protected while pulled up)
2. after the glue sets, you trim the excess with a sanding block

on your last question, yes, i also apply some thickened epoxy carefully on the outside to fill any gap that you may see between the box and the hull.  its easiest to do this before trimming the box back (item 2 above).

put tape on the inside of the box or otherwise cover the opening to protect it and work carefully not to get epoxy in the box.

hope that helps, 

h

I am using the skeg from Nash Boatworks.  What they call flanges are simply notches on the front and rear of the skeg as shown in the photo.

When I insert the skeg box into the slot up to the flanges/notches, the front is proud, the rear is recessed as shown in this photo:

In the above photo, the bow is to the left and the stern to the right.  What looks like duct tape with a tab is an insert the skeg box shipped with; presumably to keep the box from being squeezed during installation.

After seeing these photos, what are your recommendations?

Hi Az

thanks for the picture. 

yes, push the box down enough so it is just proud of the hul through its entire length (which is a little farther then you have right now in the picture)....and you should be fine.

i am not sure if you saw my note above.....but this looks good. 

because of the slight curve of the bottom of the hull, the box will be proudest at the front and the back.

i also see you have the taped stick in the slot which will also be something to keep in place while you glue it up.

h

   in sum...compared to your picture, push the back side of the box further down until it too is proud and you are a little proud over the entire length.

The question is how to accomplish the "push the skeg box down in the rear"?  As it sits now, the skeg box is resting on the flanges/notches as directed by the installation instructions.  Below is a crude sketch of the situation:

Three ideas come to mind in order to lower the skeg box in the rear:

1. Elongate the slot in the boat so that the rear flange/notch does not rest on the hull.
2. Cut the skeg box notch taller to allow the box to be pushed lower. 
3. Reduce the thickness of the fillet where it meets the skeg box flange/notch in the rear.
4. Other ideas?

I am leaning towards the first alternative, but I am curious to hear your thoughts and ideas.

A second question is what is the rationale for have the skeg box slightly proud of the hull on the bottom?  Why not install it flush, eliminating the need to sand/grind it flush later.

Thank you for your guidance!

Mike

Hi Mike, 

great picture.  option 1 - elongate the slot is how i have always handled it.

on your second question, flush is fine if you can do that.  i forgot you are working on a chesapeake 17 which is straighter in that section than other designs.  i say slightly proud as i always try to avoid a depression. and so having it proud a half millimeter and sanding it back ensures that's the case.  but like i said, flush, if it works, is fine too.

h

   Hi Howard,

Thank you!  

I just got a call from William at Nash Boat Works.  (That is service!  I sent him an email last night asking what he recommended.  Instead of email, he called, thinking it would be easier.) He recommended filing down the rear flange/notch until both the fore and aft ends of the skeg box are proud by the same amount.  He also suggested what you said earlier about installing the skeg fin just to make sure there is enough room for the fin to fully retract and not be proud or hang down.

Again, thank you for your guidance!

Mike

   Hi Howard,

What do you use to seal the hole where the skeg tubing goes through the aft bulkhead?  I am wondering if the epoxy will stick to the plastic tubing?

Thanks!

Mike

Hi Mike, 

sounds like it is coming along. 

for the step you are talking about, i would not use epoxy buy waterproof silicone....which will adhere to the plastic, waterproof the hole but cure  bit rubbery so that if you ever have to re-rig it, you can avoid the need for a saw.

below is a sample of what clc sells (and a good description of use cases).....you can pick up similar stuff at a big box store for this use.

https://www.clcboats.com/shop/products/boat-building-supplies-epoxy-fiberglass-plywood/boat-fasteners-hardware/3m-marine-grade-clear-silicone-sealant.html

do make sure to paint the hole in the bulkhead you made for the tube with epoxy to seal the exposed wood....and let that cure.  but then after you thread the tube through the bulkhead, put a ring of 5200 around it to ensure the watertight integrity of the bulkhead.

this material (5200 or equivelent) is also important for bedding any screws into the hull or waterproofing holes like those sometimes made for footbraces which bolt through the hull.

hope this was helpful.

h

   this is a option too:

https://www.clcboats.com/shop/products/boat-building-supplies-epoxy-fiberglass-plywood/boat-fasteners-hardware/3m-5200-fast-cure-marine-adhesive-sealant.html

you typically won't need a lot of this stuff....so i just try to find the smallest and cheapest quantum i can get.  once opened, it generally does not last more than a season even when you think you have sealed it well.

h

   Hi Howard,

Thank you!  You make a great point about maintenance should it be needed down the road.  I would rather deal with silicon than cutting out the wood/epoxy!

Mike