I can't be certain without a picture, but it sounds like CLC pre-cut the templates for the inner stems.  On the couple of kits that I bought from CLC, I had to cut them off the bow/stern forms myself.  This picture shows Mystery forms with the templates still attached, red line marking where I will cut.

To make the stems, you will need a piece of hardwood the same thickness as the bow/stern forms.  Nick's video gives a good tutorial on shaping the stems.  The biggest tip is leave extra wood on the blunt end of the form so you have something to clamp to your table while shaping the pointy end.  Once you have it tshaped, then make the cut where it will sit against the bow/stern form.  The other important thing is to make sure that you cover the bow and stern forms with clear shipping tape so that glue does not stick to them.  Otherwise, you can accidentlt glue to the form to the stem and/or strips, making it very difficult to remove.

Stern stem and form for Mystery

Typo above

    The biggest tip is leave extra wood on the blunt end stem so ...

So this piece of wood came with the kit, unfortunately nothing is labeled with what it is for.  Seems a bit big for the forms to be cut from it but it's the only piece that came with the kit that wasnt for hte strongback or plywood.  I'm trying to figure out if I should cut them from this.  

   Also the thickness is exactly the same

  Those sure look like the templates for inner stems.  It would be more obvious if I saw them mating up perfectly to the bow and stern forms.  You could also calll CLC and ask.  They are very responsive. 

   Oh yes these are definitely the templates, I guess my question was do I use these directly or do I use these to cut out solid wood that I can taper because these stay permanently in the boat. It is a question I guess because they're the same material as the rest of the forms. Then there was the question of what that solid wood piece is for lol.

Here are some more pics

Absolutely, do not use the particle board for inner stems.  It will eventually disintegrate once it gets wet.  If the hardwood included in the kit is the same thickness as the forms/templates, then it is for the inner stems.  Use the templates to transcribe the correct shape to the hardwood, then use a saw to cut the hardwood on the pointy end only.  Once you have shaped the stems per Nick's video, then use a saw to cut the blunt (form) end of the stem to the correct shape.   

Ditto what Mark said. 

those small pieces are the patterns for the inner stems and you use those patterns on the solid wood.

i am in the later stages of a petrel play.....but here is a picture of what that stem looks like after you cut it out and shape it (this is the bow piece) and fit it back to the form.

fwiw, i happen to be building from a partial kit with just the forms (no strips provided....i provide my own) and i did not have a piece of hardwood to cut and shape the inner stems.  i did create the inner stems, however, from layered scrap cedar i had and it works just fine and saves a bit of weight (see pic below) .   i have used this approach on a number of kayaks that i built from scratch.....hardwood is not required....but like mark says...you definitely do not want to use the particle board.

also if you are careful with the piece of hardwood they provided in the kit and use the least amount of it for the inner stems, you can, if you have the tools, mill it into 1/8 inch thick strips for the outer stem/stern (pic below)

hope that helps

h

   Awesome thanks all,  I got the bow stem cut and shaped from that piece of wood this morning.  Just need to do the stern and figure out those strip jigs to hold them in place with clamps and I think I'll be ready to start stripping.  Did you all use staples or glue to the forms? I was planning to tape them and try hot glue gun instead of using staples.

I used staples.  It's quick and easy.   

i have researched and did some experiments on building without staples....and it would involve hot glue, jigs and tape....with a hope to minimize hot glue becuase it is a pain to remove...so you would only use it on key anchoring strips.

after the experiments, i got impatient and pulled out my staple gun to allow my work pace to be where i wanted it.  for how i finish my boats, its hard to notice the staples unless you are inside two to three feet....so i have not given it a lot of thought after my nacent experiments.

that said, i would love to do it....but just did not want to wait.

h

My experience matches Hspira's regarding staples.  I tried to go staple-less on the Mystery build but failed.  Like your PP, the Mystery has some strips with lots of bend and twist and I had difficulty getting the hot glue to hold, so I broke out the staple gun.  My technique is what I would call semi-staple-less, meaning that I only staple where needed.  The other note about hot glue is that it can make it very hard to get the hull/deck off of the forms.

As a first time strip builder, I would definately reccomend staples.  Especially since I believe I saw Peruvian Walnut in one of your pictures.  That stuff is hard, so it is difficult to bend and twist.