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Help with Northeaster Dory Build
Our community wood workshop group is building a Northeaster Dory as a fun first project. We are building from plans
We have reached the stage where the major components have been stitched together and the filleting and internal fibreglassing has been commenced, but we have a problem. When we were stitching the upper panels to the bulkheads (1, 2 and 3) we found that the notches cut into those bulkheads needed to be adjusted to accommodate each panel - only by a few mm but the end result is the top panel is now not level with the top of those three bulkheads as it appears to be in pictures or the manual
Now we (I should really say me!) hadn't worried about this during the construction phase because I had assumed this gap was left for an inwale - but of course there is no inwale only a 2 piece laminated outwale which again it appears should be level with the top of these 3 bulkheads
I am mystified how this arose because as I say we are building from (full size) plans so the parts are accurately cut and the top 3 panels rebated as per instructions I have I think eliminated a printing error as the cause as the notches should line up with the width of the panel at each station (I measured both on the plans) but as I say on assembly they didn't
It would appear we have two ways forward - either install the outwale at the top of the panel and ignore the fact it extends around an inch on average higher than the bulkhead tops - or trim that top panel so that it does fit to the top of those 3 bulkheads
Sorry for the long winded post
Any ideas what we did wrong and also which 'solution' do you think we should go with?
TIA
4 replies:
RE: Help with Northeaster Dory Build
Thanks very much for the quick reply
I'm leaning towards the batten and trim because I don't think there is an issue with stiffness - the rebate dictates the overlap so presumably the strength there is standard and if there is an issue with rowing geometry it would be easier to raise the rowlock holder than to cut it down later
We had already decided not to go with a spacered inwale - while they do look great it is a fair bit of extra work (especially as we are going for a lug sail so the mast support would be more complicated) plus I'd imagine you would be giving up some comfort when in sailing mode?
I also want to get this done soon so I can stop pointing out mistakes I have made! I have made that mistake when house building and if you don't tell people the vast majority won't see what you see
Speaking of sailing, one of our multi talented village community has volunteered to make the sail. The diagram suggests it is just a flat sheet with no shape built into it - is that right?
Sorry I also don't know how to delete the duplicate post I did send a message to a moderator
Thanks again
RE: Help with Northeaster Dory Build
CLC's lug sail page here:
https://www.clcboats.com/life-of-boats-blog/lug-nuts-lug-rigs.html
RE: Help with Northeaster Dory Build
In answer to your question . . . no, the lug sail is shaped and sewn. If you'd like to sew your own sail, you can look for balanced lug kits at places like Duckworks and Sailrite. The 89 sq ft sail from Duckworks is reported to work well on the Northeaster Dory, but it looks a bit big to me. The 62 sq ft Skerry sail at Sailrite is very similar to the balanced lug used on the dory.
RE: Help with Northeaster Dory Build
» Submitted by Silver Salt - Sun, 2/2/20 » 11:22 AM
You have a community wood workshop? How great is that! Building with friends is the best thing ever.
Wow, bummer. As I see it you have two ways forward: Time machine or Viking Funeral. Just kidding!
I’m guessing your panels climbed, that is the rabbits didn’t stay seated, when stitches were tightened. There may be three issues with that.
First, the open space in the rabbit overhang is supposed to be filled with thickened epoxy becoming a sort of stringer. It adds a whole lot of strength. If the gap is really small it may not provide as much stiffness as it should.
Second, the appearance of the shear might be flattened. If you have room stand back 15 feet and try to get an idea of the sweep of the top edge (shear). If it has a pleasing fair curve go with it. If it’s lumpy strike a line with a flexible baton and cut to that.
Finally, it may change the geometry of your oars a tiny bit. Can’t imagine it will matter that much.
If it were me, and the shear looked good, I’d probably leave the sides tall. The extra inch will sure make it easy to install an inwale. Someone else on this forum observed they dramatically increase strength. It might be a good idea to go ahead and install one to maybe add some stiffness if any was lost to the smaller rabbit/stringers. There’s a section on the CLC pages detailing scuppered inwales.
Here’s what mine looked like
More photos here in Yawl Retrofit album:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/feetwetphotos/albums
Viking Funerals are almost never required.