A judicious installation of an 8" inspection port might allow you to install the skeg easily and allow you to air out the buoyancy tank if needed.  Might also allow access to rudder hardware.

I should have added that I already have a hatch directly behind the aft bulkhead. This seems to be too far forward for a properly placed skeg.

I installed the CLC skeg kit on my Ch17LT last summer and it was not bad at all.  Assuming that you have the standard sized aft hatch, it will be even a little easier on your Ch16 with the higher deck.  Obviously, the hardest part was getting a good filet on the very aft face of the skeg case.  It does not have to be pretty becaiuse nobody will see it, but it does have to be water tight.  The aft edge of my skeg case is 18" aft of the aft edge of the hatch, and I could reach it with my short arms.  Per the instructions for the CLC kit (http://www.clcboats.com/shoptips/fitting_out/retractable_skeg.html), the skeg can be quite far forward and still be effective.

Pict of the CLC Skeg in my Ch17LT.

If you are looking for an aftermarket skeg kit, I would look closely at the one made by Kayak Sport.  I installed it in my wife's Frej.  Obviously, much easier to install before the deck goes on.

On my 17LT I added a permanent skeg all the way at the back. I used a 5 gallon paint stick for the raw material. Chopped the handle off, roughed up the epoxy and filleted it on. when the first round of epoxy was dry, I rounded the back, and eyeballed a nice shallow angle on the front. It is only about an inch in depth, and about 18 inches long total. In light winds it is not noticeable. It high winds, above 20 mph, it makes a noticeable decrease in weather-cocking. It also makes navigating small creeks and stream a bit of a challenge. Good Luck, JRC.

i have added 'after market' skegs.

my favorite supplier is Superior Kayaks - http://www.superiorkayaks.com/superiorkayaks2017store_005.htm

their skeg is all glass construction and very solid.  it includes skeg, box, and all the control hardware.  i have installed four of them in various stitch and glue and strip built boats.

i don't see a price on their website...but i recall it being very reasonably priced.

depending on your arms, i find that i am able to get the leading edge of the skeg about 9 inches aft of the rear-most edge of the rear hatch.  and that this has worked just fine on my boats which are 17 to 18 feet.  pictures of one of my boats with skeg is at http://www.clcboats.com/forum/clcforum/thread/37124.html

certainly easier before the deck goes on, but very doable with some patience as an after-construction modification.

i think its a pretty nice looking skeg.

jnclark -  I thought about adding a fixed skeg. It would be the simplest and most accessible. My only concern was about how effective it would be. Does it track well in winds between 5-10 mph? Do you have any pics? I'm wondering how deep I should make it. It's my wife's boat and she won't be paddling in high winds.

hspira - I have intalled a Superior Kayak skeg in my current build (Shearwater 17 hyb) . Installation during construction is a breeze but I would be hesitant to try this on a completed boat.

   I've put one of Nick's skegs on both my Petrels and last spring retrofitted one to my wife's Shearwater 16 hybrid. It wasn't hard. It takes a bit to gather all the pieces. I believe CLC also offers it as part of the Petrel S&G kit and it may be available from them seperately.

Dan

just as a note that i have done the superior kayak skeg after the deck is on.

you clearly have to measure/plan carefully so you ensure you can reach as far back as you need (in other words, location is determined by how far back you can reasonably work) and that you have enough room to begin with.

that said, it's just slower....but perfectly doable.    a couple hints (that probably apply to any after-market fit).

• careful test fit of the box in the hull after the slot is cut in the hull.  if you have made a good opening, the box should sit properly in the hull
• when you cut the slot in the hull....but before filleting in....i use slightly thickened epoxy with cabosil  to wet-out the new exposed wood to ensure everything is very well sealed. i also then -pre-glue the box in place with this slightly thickened expoxy before doing the final fillet and glass work...which i will do about 12 hours after the box is fixed in place.  this way....you don't have to worry about knocking the box out of position when you are doing the final filleting/glass.
• you may need a stick/spreader for the fillet to reach as far as you need.  i masked the inside of the hull and box with blue tape to keep the fillet nice and neat. 
• before installing the box, i made sure the tubing fit easily onto the box as you will not have the physical leverage to apply a lot of pressure.   heating and stretching the tubing in advance made quick work of this.
• you may need a small screwdriver to put the hoseclamp on and work in a small space....

anyway, the advantage is you have actually worked with one of these skegs before so you know what it takes to do without the deck on....so all you have to do is plan/adjust to do the tasks with limited access.

as i said, certainly not as easy as doing witht he deck of...but doable and will take a bit longer and bit more planning.

h

I will try to get picktures tomorrow. It is only about an inch deep. For the winds you are describing, try loading the rear hatch with a few pounds of ballast. The Chesapeakes like a bit of weight in the back. When loaded for a camping trip, i load all of the heavy stuff in the back, anf the light stuff in the front. Good Luck, JRC.  

Not the best angle, sitting sideways on the trailer.

This shows the depth. Only about an inch to an inch and a half at the deepest. It is also epoxied outside of the original fiberglass, so it is easily replaceable if needed in the future. Good luck, JRC