This is a good thing, John. Scuppered inwhales really improve the looks of a boat, the Skerry, an excellent example. I'm predicting that it will be a popular option with kit buyers. 

This is great John... I would like to think that our conversation on this topic resulted in this announcement.. but I suspect I am not nearly as influental as that.

Not to rush you or anything, but when do you think one might be able to order this. I am looking to complete my NE Dory within the month and wanted to do the inwhales as part of the overall build.   

John,

I think you made them pretty straightforward to construct on the Peeler Skiff and they add considerable stiffness and strength to the gunwales.  They were well worth the effort even if they didn't also make the boat look better.

Cheers,

Dick

John,

I think you made them pretty straightforward to construct on the Peeler Skiff and they add considerable stiffness and strength to the gunwales.  They were well worth the effort even if they didn't also make the boat look better.

Cheers,

Dick

   I am putting rails on a N.E. Dory now.  I like the look on the skiff but here is what i am doing:

All layers are on the outside of the 6 mm plywood, but the first layer caps the plywood.

The first layer of rail is 3/4 wide x 1" high. but I Rabbeted it along the surface that hits the 6 mm plywood. the rabbet is 3/4 high x 9/32" deep. This leaves a 1/4" high x 9/32" wide cap to cover the 6 mm plywood end grain on the edge. 

The second layer of rail is made up of several short sections 6" long. this will result in a 6" x 3/4" gap along the rail, out of every foot. There will be longer solid sections at the 3 oar locks and about 18" on bow end and aft.

when cutting the short rails I used a 1" diameter forstner bit vertically thru the 3/4" wide rail. this results in a nice inside radius on each end.

I will epoxy these short rails on as the second layer.

The third layer is a solid 3/4 x 1" high section. The result is a 2-1/4" wide rail, including the capped side wall 6 mm plywood, but the rail is open similiar to the skiff shown above. I will try to post some pics as this comes together this weekend, I have all my parts cut and the first layer rabbeted. I am using Padouk for the rails. 

   Hi John,

As you know I am a big fan of inner rails for many reasons and used your 1/2" wide x 3/4" high wood for mine...suggest that size, not the bigger size of the outer rails.  A couple other thoughts:

--Use the wood from you that was pre-scarfed..very nice.

--Use a scarf to kill into the transom..again, looks nice. https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/xG48qVVrqn6GEk0rYN0CVTFolq1y-t7pqfyiNmzJPv8?feat=directlink

--Glue the inner rail piece into one piece before installing...do not glue one piece than another

--Provide people the link to that article about cutting inner rails to length by "snapping" them in with progressively shorter cuts. 

--Coach builders buying clamps that 3" clamps will just BARELY work for clamping on the inner rail.  BUT with the outer rail already installed first, there is not room for clamp pads so I used cut pieces of oatmeal boxes and yes, it did leave a few pecker tracks that needed to be sanded out, but I'd suggest not selling builders any C-clamps under 3" if they are going to install inner rails.

--The top mount oar sockets work great in the inner rails.

--Spacing the lengths of the small pieces can be made easier by using variable cut pieces of paper folded over the rail.

Here is one picture, and then click "right" 30 or so times.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/SLbX4c48ykxE-gYT_07vpTFolq1y-t7pqfyiNmzJPv8?feat=directlink

Curt