progress on wood duck 12 hybrid

I have fiberglassed the underside of the deck. The instruction manual says to "make sure the fiberglass is thoroughly wet-out, and the weave filled with too coats of epoxy". Would that be a total of 3 coats, one wet-out coat and two fill coats, or just one fill coat? Does it really matter? I do not wish to use extra epoxy if not needed. Reason I ask is that I have about 1/3 left of the epoxy, and I still have to glass the deck, and apply fill coats to the hull and deck. Will I have enough epoxy to finish this project? Otherwise I am very pleased with the way the boat is coming out.

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RE: progress on wood duck 12 hybrid

On my Shearwater hybrid I only used one coat on the underside of the deck. Enough to wet out the glass evenly.

On another note. The latest storm here in the NE has knocked out one of the legs of my power. I still have heat, some lights, and internet. BUT, the lighting above my kayak work space is out, along with the outlets for my sander, etc. Major bummer 

RE: progress on wood duck 12 hybrid

I just finished glassing the hull on a Ches 17lt.  The glass seems really thirsty when you are wetting out but I was surprised at how little epoxy was required for the fill coats.  I "flowed" on very thin coats with a squeegee and then ran over them with a foam roller. 

RE: progress on wood duck 12 hybrid


That number of coats is just a serving suggestion.It usually takes me 5 coats to fill the weave, but I put on very thin coats these days. This Shop Tip shows you what you're going for and you should use whatever number of coats it takes to get you there. As Tim says the 2nd and subsequent coats take very little epoxy.

dthaler's option of not filling the weave is a good one that I routinely use for the insides of my boats. It saves a lot of weight and effort, as well as epoxy.



RE: progress on wood duck 12 hybrid

Thanks for the replys. I now have another question. After finishing the fiberglassing of the underside of the deck, I flipped it over and layed it in place on the hull. My consistent 1/8" overlap at the sheer is now as much as a  5/8" on both sides. I would hate to trim that much off the edge, because I have used (2) sheer strips of the same color, and I don't think it would look good. I am somewhat confident that the cradles I made prior to lifting the deck off were accurate. What happened here and how do I rectify this. Distressed in San Antonio. Thanks, Barry

RE: progress on wood duck 12 hybrid

The same thing happened to me. I believe the deck flattened some after I removed it from the forms. I glued mine down that way and ended up planing more off the edges than I would have liked. I suppose if I had strapped it better when I glued it down it would have returned to the right overhang. I also used a double edge strip which is now narrow in the middle, but I think it looks ok, quirky, but ok.


RE: progress on wood duck 12 hybrid

RE: progress on wood duck 12 hybrid

Well Dthaler, yours looks very nice so far. But I believe that with out any adjustment to the deck or hull I could be removing portions of at least the a width of a single strip. Strapping it down would seem to just compress things more without pulling the hull outward to meet the edge of the deck. What would you do at this point?


RE: progress on wood duck 12 hybrid

I'm not really sure. I found that the hull width did not change and is exactly to spec (probably due to the bulkheads). There may be a way to bow the deck back to the correct width before glueing, but I'm not sure what it is. Anyone?


RE: progress on wood duck 12 hybrid

My WD12 isn't a hybrid,  but its plywood deck also had a pretty good springback when it was released from the forms. So once I finished glassing the inside, I wired the forms back in. I used ratchet straps to persuade the deck to bend back around the forms. Once the deck was tacked to the hull, I took the forms out for good, then taped the deck to the hull.

Barry, don't wait too long to do this, though, the deck will get stiffer as the epoxy cures.

Dan, nice boat.



RE: progress on wood duck 12 hybrid

Just spoke with Mark at CLC, and the consensus is that the hull itself has sprung in. The suggestion is to put some frames back in, tack the deck to the hull, and then remove the frames. Hopefully this will work. I will try this today, and let everyone know. Incidentally, I have found that the support I have been receiving from CLC has been excellent. Thanks to all.

I would like to post some pictures, but am not sure how to to that.

RE: progress on wood duck 12 hybrid

Just an update. I put the frames back in, and that solved the problem. The hull came back to the original shape and I spot tacked the deck on with hot glue. Then I reached in to remove the frames, glassed the deck to the hull, and only had to trim off about 1/16 -1/8" of sheer for the deck to become flush with the hull. That was my original overlap, so needless to say I was pleased. Today, I sanded the deck in preparation to start glassing.

RE: progress on wood duck 12 hybrid

Barry thank-you for the update. I am a distance behind you and currently up to making the strips for the top of my WD-12 Hybrid. Any warnings and solutions are most welcome...CZ

RE: progress on wood duck 12 hybrid

CZ, This is what I will do on my next boat. I will leave all the forms in when I take the deck off to fiberglass the underside. Re-install the deck and tack the deck to the hull with spots of hot glue, then pull the forms out and install the fiberglass tape. The only other issue I had was with the Whiskey Plank and the 2 strips next to it. These last three strips on each side, I fitted and glued together at the same time, because you are trying to get the strips in a space that's smaller narrower than the width of the strips. Hope this helps.  Barry

RE: progress on wood duck 12 hybrid

Thank-you for the heads up on leaving in the forms--some questions

1. Does the hot glue leave a residue that can be removed?

2. How much hot glue area to tack the forms?

3. Can you reach all the forms once the deck is tacKed on?

4. can you remove them easily?

5. Any problems with the glue tack under the top deck and the fiberglass tape application?

6. Did you put all the  forms in? I have my epoxied wooden blocks for my foot braces in mind.

Thanks in advance--CZ

RE: progress on wood duck 12 hybrid

CZ, Please keep in mind that leaving the forms in, is contradictory to what the instruction manual says. But in my experience, removing the forms allows the hull to spring in.

1. Glue residue is somewhat easy to remove with a scraper or chisel. Just remember to use construction hot glue and not arts & crafts. I bought mine at Lowes.

2. I tried to use the minimal amount that I could, approximately a 1" bead, and put it on one side only, the side opposite the direction that I would ultimately knock the forms out from. The forms need to be removed toward the wider part of the hull.

3&4. Yes. I reached in with a claw hammer, and just knocked them out, again towards the direction of the cockpit.

5. No problems. It was a minimal tacks, maybe every 12", and the tape went over the glue. I also spot tacked the deck on the outside just under the 1/8" lip that gets trimmed off. Then removed it after the deck was taped on.

6. Yes, I reinstalled all the forms. If I knew what I know now, I would not have removed them in the first place until I had the deck tacked down.


RE: progress on wood duck 12 hybrid

Thanks Barry---Good advice--I ripped all of my strips today with the table saw and I did the bead side [of the cove and bead] on my router table. Honey do project took up the rest of my day.....CZ

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