End Pours?

I have spent some time researching end pours and the purpose, pros, cons, opinions, problems, and techniques.  Perhaps I should have just stuck to the manual from my Sheerwater 17 S&G.  Now I am confused.  Any tips of quantity of epoxy, technique, necessity, etc., would be greatly appreciated.  Would like to stay light, but want it structurally sound.  I am working in the South and temeratures will likely be in the high 70s to mid 80s while I do the pours.



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RE: End Pours?

Have you attached the deck yet? If not this might be something of interest... (Lazlo's duck build).


RE: End Pours?

Sorry, I have a really bad habit of clicking "post message" before I've finished my though...

On my first duck I did the end pour post-deck attachment mixing phenolic micro ballons with the epoxy to lighten the pour

On my second duck I used Lazlo's method of making a stem piece...

Both boats are of similar weight, but on my first boat I came very close to running out of epoxy, where as my second I had a surplus at the end.

My view on building is that added strength outweighs my desire to keep the boat light - altough both methods did not seem to add much weight...

RE: End Pours?

Thanks for the quick response.  I think I am going with the End Pour, just looking into options...

RE: End Pours?


I am building a Shearwater 17 Hybrid and I did the end pours before stripping the deck.  I did it this way because I was not wild about dumping the epoxy from the hatch and I do not have a great place to stand the boat on end.  Anyway, in doing it this way you can see how much you are getting.  You can place the dam where you want the pour to end and still be sure to seal up those skinny areas you could not get the glass tape into in good fashion.  You will want to be sure to over-fill slightly so the epoxy cures proud to the deck line.  You can then plane ii to match the deck camber for a good fit to the deck.

 Good Luck

Paul G.

RE: End Pours?

No need to stand the boat on end, angled from a tabletop height is fine. 

No need to pour it all in one shot either. A little at a time if you are conserving weight is ok. You can check your progress after each pour cures and you can see how much more you have to add, or not, to have enough to drill and add your grab handles.

RE: End Pours?

I used West G-Flex for the end pours on my Shearwater 17 S&G. About three ounces in each end. Propped the boat upside down on a six-foot stepladder. Photos and full description can be found at http://twofootartist.com/shearwater-construction-notes/

RE: End Pours?

I just did my end pours for my 17LT. I did them before the deck because I could not figure out how the deck attaches to the hull where there is no shear clamp to nail into. I made a nice dam and taped it with some packing tape and poured in the epoxy. THen the whole thing just leaked dry! I literally had to sponge up a ton of epoxy as it ran out the botton and sides of the dam. Apparently using a new tape at this stage of the game was not the bright thing to do. The next day I used the painters masking tape that I had been using and then covered it with duct tape. It worked very nicely. So others can chime in here but I'd suggest making sure that you do a great tape job. My dam was really tight fitting too so it was not like I had huge gaps.

RE: End Pours?

I used MAS Slow epoxy and Micro Balloons for the end pours on my MC 16.5. I applied packing tape on the glue side of the cardboard dams and held them in place with modeling clay. The pours were done in one filling with minimal overflow and heat.

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