Glad that it worked for you, but there are some potential pitfalls with this method. If the epoxy on the hull kicks, you can end up with large areas of dry cloth. Depending on the local weather conditions, epoxy temps, etc., the next time may not be as lucky.

Again, congratulations on making it work.

Laszlo

   After glassing the hull on the skerry by rolling out a layer of epoxy first then placing the cloth on the epoxy, removing the wrinkles and wetting it out. I tried the method described in the manual for the interior. Using the squeegee on the interior was way more time consuming for me. The cloth was wrinkling and THAT IS WHEN the epoxy “kicked”. In the frame where the daggerboard was to be located there were white sections of cloth that I could Not get flat or wet-out. I was lucky, because after calling CLC for advice I was able to peal back 1/2 of that section and cut it off with a razor knife. Sanding the epoxy only part was easy and I quickly returned to the roll epoxy first method. For me it was much quicker and therefore less of a chance for the epoxy to kick. I was surprised when the epoxy kicked because the temperature was around 50 degrees, but I was using drop lights with 75 watt.bulbs.

Hombre you used the word ‘slippery’ in your first post. Do you mean you allowed the first, rolled-on coat of epoxy to harden before adding ‘glass then more epoxy?

My experience is that uncured epoxy is anything but slippery, why I’m asking.

I can see why ‘glassing a hull exterior’d be easier, in that you’re stretching ‘glass cloth over a surface that supports it. On the inside any movement tends to lift the ‘glass off so one has to be more careful & it takes longer.

 Slippery might be a little overstated. More like gooey! After stirring, I was able to roll the entire surface with a thin layer of epoxy fairly quickly. I had previously fitted the cloth and was able to place it down close to where it would ultimately be. Then starting in the middle, was EASILY able to both remove wrinkles and get the cloth completely flat. Much of the cloth wetted out at that point, but the weave was prominent. Then the cloth generally held in place while I wetted it out with a brush. I’m am a complete beginner and this is my first build, but i sure like this method and wanted to pass on this technique. It is essentially the way the Manuel tells you to place the 3-4” fiberglass tape on the exterior and interior at the bow and stern.

Yep, I’d think your method preferable to trying to ‘wet out’ fiberglass cloth placed on bare plywood. I’d fear the ply’d suck resin out of the cloth otherwise, not unlike assembling puzzle joints: wet w/unthickened resin first, assemble with resin + wood flour to keep resin in joint ‘till cured.

Slippery to me means something entirely different than sticky / gooey / tacky... but there’s room for everyone as long as we’re having fun!

I worked in a prototype shop for a few years.  That is how we wetted out every layer of cloth whether it was first or last.  Infact Boeing even calls for something similar in their vacuum bag layups.

Just avoid heat, use a slow hardener, and remember epoxy kicks faster when its mixed in large vertical containers.  If you want a longer pot life mix the epoxy in a cup and then pour it into something like a cookie tray.  That will slow any exothermic reaction that mixing cups tend to produce when epoxy b stages.