Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

Hello all...I'm new to this fourm and will be building a 16' ceder strip canoe.

The plans are from Floyd McGuckin & Jack Payn they used Redwood I'll be using Red & White Ceder and Ash.

My nick name is Splinterz25.... I was a cabinet maker/ machine opp. for 30 years

and also build large scale model airplanes as my hobby.

I saw one of these canoes while camping and decited to build one of my own.

Any help from you boat building vets will be very helpful and appreciated.

I'm in the process of gathering all the materials to start this build and should have enough to start w/ in a week or less.

Splinterz25

 


121 replies:

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RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

Splinterz25,

welcome.  a great general overview of the process is addressed in these two books that are available from CLC:

http://www.clcboats.com/shop/products/boat-building-books-kayaking-dvds/building-strip-planked-boats-nick-schade.html

and

http://www.clcboats.com/shop/products/boat-building-books-kayaking-dvds/strip-built-sea-kayak-nick-schade.html

there is a lot of duplication in these books but the first one actually takes you through the build of a strip-planked canoe.   the second book is a little more comprehensive in my view about general considerations in strip-plank building issues

i had a lot of similar type of experience but have found these books excellent reference and helpful in thinking ahead and addressing the things that come up during the build process.  

without more specific question the only advice i would offer is patience and don't hesitate to reach out on the forums with questions.  also recommend the guillemot kayka forum as a resource as well  http://www.kayakforum.com/cgi-bin/Building/index.cgi/page/1/md/read/id/229957/sbj/strip-stripping-near-cockpit-cutout-guillim/    they have a lot of strip-built builders there and it is very fast and quick turn-around on almost any question in the strip-built space.

best of luck

h

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Thank you for the links hspira.

Well I've ordered most everthing and will be hand picking the lumber tomorrow.

I also bought a 13" Ridgid thickness planer 

I bought 30 yards 55" W  6oz unidirectional fiberglass cloth this is made for epoxy resins which I'll be using.

For that I'll be getting the aero marine 1 1/2 Gal kit.

http://www.amazon.com/AeroMarine-300-Epoxy-Resin-Gallon/dp/B0047R2C9Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1406672175&sr=1-1

I bought one of the router bits the 1/8" round over bit the other is on order the1/4" U bottom straight cut.

These should let the strips fit nice and snugg at the edges.

And for the glue I ordered Cascophen two part resin system, this is simmilar to the old DAP marine glue  ( Resorcinol)  that you can't buy any more.

I'm trying to push and build this fast so I can take it camping at the end of OCTOBER?

 It may be a bit larger task than I think but we'll see.

Next time hope to have some photos of the form and milled strips.

Splinterz25

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

sounds like a list.

the only thing that caught my eye was the glue. 

most of the construction i have experience with and most of the folks i know work with simple Titebond wood glue or some variation of that.   no need for Resorcinol/susbstitute.

the epoxy/glassing of the inside and outside should encapsulate the wood and provide the 'water-proofness'.   in this construction, its not really a wood boat.  it's a composite boat with a wood core....where you happen to be able to see the core.

the wood should never get wet.

since the epoxy is keeping the wood dry, you can keep the glue simple.  the wood glue sets up fast and is easy to work with.

Howard

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Thank you Howard.....I was wondering about the wood being encapsulated by the epoxy resin; and would Titebond  be strong enough.

I have Titebond III on hand and may use that it's suppose to be water proof?

Well the Cascophen glue will be here on Thursday, I'll use that on the exposed parts and for making my paddles; and for my flying boat models.

I do have a question though; while reading I saw where after covering the canoe w/ glass & polyester resin they rough up the fin. surfface, and then applied Spar Varnish?

They say it's for UV protection.

When using the Epoxy resins is this still nessary to cover w/ Spar Varnish?

Or is it tough enough on it's own?

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   UV light will cause unprotected Epoxy to discolor and eventually break down. Paint is the best UV blocker but to show off your beautiful stripper four or five coats of a good spar varnish is a must.

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Okay catboater will do I want it to stay nice after all of this hard work.

Well I have riped out the strips from 6 -18' x 1"x 6" WRC I had a few of the boards w/ out many nots but I did end up w/ some smal pieces.

I'll scarf joint those and I should have more than enough strips to build this canoe.

I also ran the cove and bead in all of the pieces and I'm glad it done; I't's not easy runnung these thin strips a 18'.

I also have recieved my glue but went ahead and bought titebond for thr bead glue up.

And I picked up the materials for the strong back and forms.

Here's afew photos of my setup for routing the bead and cove.

Well I'm not sure how to post them on this site anyone want to clue me in?

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   http://www.clcboats.com/various/posting-photos-forums.html

 

try the link above for how to post pics.

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Uni glass is an unusual choice for a strip build. You'll need to run it in 90 degree segments across the boat (across the strip joints), and it may not wet out as clear as a plain weave due to the thicker glass threads. There's no need to overlap the adjacent panels, just butt them somewhat tightly together. 

It would be a good idea to have some plain weave or twill on hand for stuff other than hull laminating: stem reinforcement, thwart tabbing, that kind of stuff, where uni doesn't really work.

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

 nemochad...Thank you for the heads up w/ the fiberglass; but since the plans call for 2 layers of glass would it be a good idea to lay the first  as you suggested cross wise and the second long ways?

I'll get some heavier plain weave cloth for stem reinforcement etc.

hspira...Thank you for the photo posting link; but I still having trouble?

I have an album on photo bucket now, but can't get theme from there to this forum?

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Yes, running a second layer lengthwise would be fine. Do check the wetting properties on a scrap piece first, to see if it goes clear. Glass is cheap, and if you're after a clear finish it would be silly to use something that stays milky.

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

nemochad..... I went to Thayercraft site the CO. I bought the cloth from and they say

It's good to run the layers cloth a 30 degrees to each other for strength: making an X

pattern, and I think I bought it wide enough to do this and still cover the canoe in one piece each time.

I'll be running a wetting test w/ two layers of cloth in this fashion today to see if you can see the woods color.

The forms are now all drawn up and ready to cut; for coast reasons I went w/ OSB in stead of PLY or MDF and CHIP BOARD those are $30 -$45 a sheet now days.

I need two sheets; the OSB $7 a sheet.

I'm now looking to find a good local source for ASH; BUT not having any luck so far.

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   +/- 30 would be great.

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   OKAY.... I ran the test w/ epoxy and two layers of the glass cloth 30 degrees to each other; and I see what you mean about the wetting factor, it's a bit stubborn to get it to wet at first but w/ some work it does wet out.

Of corse I did both pieces at the same time w/ out wetting the board first.

It's curing now and will let you know how it turned out.

I've cleaned the shop and I'm ready to start building the strong back.

I'll also be getting some help from my honey helping me w/ posting the photos later on today.

I've given up on the ASH and have opted for RED OAK I'll try and find the lightest boards I can, to give a nice contrast to thr RED CEDER.

I have another question; my plans show a 3/4" x 3/4" blunted  V shape keel?

they are vage to say the least on this part, but it looks like it's screwed on w/ 1" brass screws just befor glasing.

Or should the bottom of the hull be glassed first then add the keel?

Or don't add it at all?

Any help here would be appreciated.

All the canoes I see being built do not have them?

The other thing this design does different is the Stem, they don't bend the wood into a curve; he has you glue to boards together making a 1 1/2" thick solid PINE Stem then bevel the angle to accept the strips leaving a 3/4" flat on the front to be covered w/ ceder before glassing?

Is one way better than the other? These are very old plans and I'm sure things are done a bit different now days.

Bruce

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

splinterz,

a couple comments....

on the keel.  my sense that this may be acting more as a sacrificial rub strip than a keel in the traditional sense (actually required to allow the canoe to track straight.)  i would glass the hull first then add the keel strip, if you want, later.

one thing to keep in mind is that the glass wet out properly over any sharp crease (inside or outside of a crease).  you need, typically at least a 1/4 inch round to get glass to stay on.  if you glass the hull and use the keep as a rub-strip this is not a problem.  if you want to glass it, you may need a fillet between the hull and the keel in order to be able to get glass to attach.

on the stem....in a lot of construction there is an internal stem and an external stem.   so everything you are describing sounds standard.  the internal stem is typically single piece of wood beveled to a sharp edge to accept the strips in the bow and stern and provides a surface to glue the strips as opposed to the strips from the right and left glueing to their opposing strip.   after the initial stripping is done with the internal stem, a plane is taken to the bow and stern and a flat area  (3/4 inch wide) is created and a 'decorative' stem is then attached to the outside which is often made of strips that can now be bent onto this flattened area and feathered back into the hull.

my only other comment is i would consider swapping out the unidirectional for weave.   with weave, a lot of risk of how this will wet out will be taken off the table.  most of your work in going to be in the wood.  but once that glass goes on, things get difficult to reverse.  i realize you have some money in the uni-glass.....but it may be relatively low cost to swap it now and ensure you have an approach that works.

h

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Okay I ran my test and I think the glass will be okay there's a photo of my sample.

The strong back is now ready w/ the forms and stems all squared and screwed in place; I need to add some tape to the edges and recheck everything.

This is how they show the strong back in the drawings I added the OBS I wanted it stable.

  

    

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Well the strip gluing begins ....I was able to get 7 strips glued up today 

The start up was slow but now I think I see how it will go I'm going to try some different clamping methods tomorrow.

I only nailed the first two strips on each side and will be trying to staway from the nails if I can.

I'm going to try a simple pattern w/ the lighter strips but I don't have many of those.

I'll post some photos tomorrow,

Splinterz

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Okay I'm on a roll now; I drilled holes in the forms w/ a hole saw and my bungies and clamps now have some place to anchor to.

But I'm taking my time to seat each strip in the U grove ALL the way down the full 16' and cleaning off all excess glue; this will pay off on the next stage filling and sanding.

Check out the progress,

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Okay I got a bit more done today, I have run a white stripe down the center of the canoe; but I relise I have to use all the strips I have so there's going to be random coloring through out the whole build.

Not a big deal to me it will still look very nice; so far I'm happy w/ how it's coming out.

I just got a new disc sander from Dewalt and this iss going to be a big time saver; very powerful, I recomend it for any wood project, it has veriable speed; Iran a shor test to see what I was up against.

I'm thinking about getting a straight line sander as well, this will be great for the resin and varnish, giving an automotive finish.

 

 

 

 

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   What'a a good varnish to go over the epoxy resin? and how much should I order to cover a 16' canoe w/ enough UV protection ....I'm thinking 5 coats?

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Well I got a bit more done today after going camping this past weekend; I'm trying to use up all my smaller pieces before the curve gets to tight.

And I'm add in a few small strips on the top edge so I can get a bit more curve on the bow and stern.

 

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   THE BENDING HAS BECOME DIFFICULT AND PROGRESS HAS SLOWED DOWN A BIT.

I'M GOING TO DO A HARRING BONE PATTERN ON THE BOTTOM; AND I'VE ALREADY LAIED OUT THE CENTER STRIP NOW TO CONNECT THE OTHERS TO IT.

 

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   I'V COME UP W/ A HERRING BONE DESIGN AND HAVE STARTED LAYING DOWN.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   I guess I lost the few guys that were following along answering my questions.

Still looking for a good spar varnish to cover the epoxy resin.

I've used Caabbot on yard project before but this is my first boat.

Thank you 

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   If anybody's still following? Here's the next phase of the build.

Bruce

 

 

 

 

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

interlux schooner varnish works just fine.

http://www.clcboats.com/shop/products/boat-building-supplies-epoxy-fiberglass-plywood/marine-paint-varnish/interlux-schooner-marine-varnish.html

i have also used z spar captain's varnish.

both of these have high UV protection and work nicely with properly prepped epoxy.  my personal experience is that they last quite a long time, are easy to apply and work with.

i have also done both a plain finish with these varnishes as well as rubbed finish -- where you polish them down....(so you get the high UV protection....but a furniture like finish that really only comes from polishing).

looks like your project is coming along very well....thanks for all the pictures.

howard

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Thank you Howard.....I think I can get both of those at West Marine; A little bit $$$

but after doing all of the wood work I want to protect the canoe, so it lastest many years.

Which of the two products did you like best or are they about the same?

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

no difference that i can determine.  i have had no problem starting a varnish job with remains of one can and a new can of the other brand.

clc offers much better price than west unless on big sale in my experience.  i typically club stuff in an order to CLC to reduce the shipping cost per order and have it sent.  may be also worth looking a jamestown distributors as well.

on these two, becuase of similarity, i buy which one i can get on sale.

howard

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Thank you Howard.... I'll try and catch a sale, I'm thinking I'll need at least 2 Qt's for a 16' canoe? might be better/smarter  to buy a Gal.

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   ALL OF THE CENTER FIELD HAS BEEN LAID AND I'M MOVING ON W/ THE HERRING BONE OUT TOWARD THE ENDS; BUT IT WILL STOP ABOUT WHERE EACH SEAT IS, THEN THE REST OF THE STRIPS.

Bruce

this first shots before sanding

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   update; compound bends now for the next 12 strips or so; to make this easier I wet and heat w/ a small iron.

 

 

 

 

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Your woodwork is looking great, but I'm worried about the lumpy/ unfair appearance of the hull shape. Did you test your frames/build jig with some long battens before building, and to lay out the plank runs? Parallel sided planks can look wonky as you get further from the sheer, so maybe that's what's showing up in the pics...

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

Bruce,

that build is looking terrific, and I really like the pattern you put on the bottom.  Make sure you don't get so distracted in admiring it when you first take the canoe out that you run into a rock...

Look forward to further updates.

Gero

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Thank you guys very much....nemochad...This is my first boat build ever; I hand drew the templates from the internet using a1 1/2" grid pattern. SO 

I'm sure there some discrepencies I had to make alterations on two of the forms as it is it won't be perfect but should serve it's purpose for me and my honey to paddle around a lake or SLOW river.

I'm learning a lot and having fun thinking about bending those outer stems now; I'll make a steamer and form to bend those then glue them on.

 

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   okay I had to make a wood steamer using some PVC  pipe for the stem pieces I used a short tube I'll use a larger one for the gunnels.

I heated the wood / hard rock maple 3/16" x 1 1/8" x 40"  about an hour after soaking it for 4 hours.

I made a sepreat form for this using my template I made to draw the internal stems; after they cooled I took duct tape and wrapped the ends to hold themthen removed all clamps and then put it right on to the canoe to see mt match.

It needs a slight bit of sandinf where the bend is the tightest.

What I would like is to hear from you guys about gluing these strips together; I've seen where guys are using EPOXY RESIN? to glue these together.

Why not TiteBond or CASCOPHEN?

And I saw some guys mixing in something to the resin like saw dust?

TiteBond is easier to work w/ than CASCOPHEN less mess wipes up w/ water.

BUT IT ALL GETS COVERED W/ GLASS AND EPOXY RESIN?

Little help here to understand please there must be a reason?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   I never buy varnish in anything larger than a quart. Seems that I often don't get a good seal on the lids, get distracted and things skim over. Unlike cold country I live in hot humid south. So my building season is different. 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Don't get greedy when varnishing. Drips from too much are difficult enough to get out. Don't forget to sand between coats. I hear sanding is fun. 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Thanks Grumpy....Still a good wasy away for the varnish.

Well I went ahead and glued the outer stem w/ CASCOPHEN

and only used one screw as a  temp hold I'll replace it w/ a dowel and may add some more dowels, we'll see?

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   How does that stem finish out to the bottom of the hull?

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   You know I can't make up my mind on this? the plans show a Keel strip/ rub strip really 3/4" x 3/4", but they didn't use an outter Stem.

I can make that call once the bottom has been glassed; the only reason I'm against the Keel strip is because I'll have to put screws threw my bottom pattern; unless I use dowels and  CASCOPHEN.

Take a look at what I have and tell me what you think you would do.

Thank you for any and all help w/ this build; I'm still learning this is my first boat ever.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

Wow - that is coming along really nicely.  I like the idea of dowels, although the holes you're putting in the bottom with them are larger than screws.

Look forward to further updates.

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Thank you Ars Natura....if I do use dowles it will be done before glassing the inside; Also I'm thinking of running 1 1/2" 6 oz cloth strips of glass down both stdes and the center before glassing w/ two layers of  4 oz DIRECTIONAL glass cloth in an  X pattern; I'll run the outside in the X pattern w/ 4 oz Directional cloth as well.

4 layers in all w/ 4 oz cloth and the 1 1/2" strips because of the herringbone pattern

those will cover the seams.

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Okay I slept on the KEEL idea and decided to go w/ one;  this will give added protection to the botton center of the canoe, I add it  after glassing the bottom w/ a scarf joint on the keel running up on to the bow & stern stems.

The keel itself will be tapered w/ 10 degree bevels and glued on w/ CASCOPHEN, this glue will adhear to plastics as well as wood.

I'll use screws to glue the strip but remove them after glue has cured and replace them w/ 1/4" oak dowls and CASCOPHEN .

Also I will then run 1 1/2" glass tape down the bottom on each side w/ Epoxy Resin and a strip down the inside covering the dowls befor glassing the inside w/ two layers of 4 oz cloth & resin.

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

Bruce,

the grain on that cedar is really nice.  You're going to end up with one hell of a beautiful canoe.

Gero

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Thank you Gero...I think I'm going to use every bit of the cedar too, it's very close on having enough and I've wasted very little mostly nots that wouldn't bend w/ out breaking.

I'm fitting the last pieces on the first side now and have started on my decks they are going to take some time; doing a bit of inlay.

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Okay one end finished bottom closed in; there's still a good bit of  filling and sanding.

I wet it down to show how it will look when the resin is applied; and you can see the other side how much is left to fill in.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Well while waiting for glue to dry I started on the bow and aft decks.

And I'll be adding another Native American Symbol; inlaid Walnut into Red Cedar 

the gunnels will be Maple.

The canoe's name will be Serenity; I'll be adding that later.

Bruce

 

 

 

 

 

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Well I had to rip out the rest of the cedar I had left today and run the cove and bead.

Then the inlay was completed; tomorrow back to glueing the rest of the strips.

Check it,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   That looks great for a freehand router job.  We'll have to start calling you "Steady Eddy".  

Gero

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Thank you Gero.... Yes you need a steady hand and a sharp bit and pacientes 

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   OKAY THE HULL IS CLOSED IN AND THE SECOND STEM IS BENT; NOW TO GLUE ON THE STEM.

THEN LET THE SANDING BEGIN; I MADE ANOTHER PATTERN IN THE BOTTOM THIS TIME IT'S AN ARROW, YOU'LL SEE THIS BETTER WHEN THE GLASS AND EPOXY RESIN GO ON.

I'M HOPPING TO START GLASSING ON SAT.

Bruce

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Very nice design.  Look forward to seeing it with the first coat of glass/epoxy.

 

Gero

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Thank you Gero...I'm looking forward to seeing that myself; Sanding is well under way and I'm still hoping to get at least the first section of glass cloth down on Sat.

 

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   OKAY HERE I AM PUTTING THE LAST OF THE 150 GRIT SANDING ON THE HULL ONE MORE GOOD HIT W/ 220 AND IT'S TIME TO START GLASSING.

 

 

 

 

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Well two hrs. to mix 6 double batches and wet them through and squeegee them through to get the first sheet on diagonally, the small off cuts will fill the small section not covered.

I'm glad I did not try to cover the keel; I would have never got it tight, doing that w/ glass tape after the bottom is complete will be much better.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   I stayed up and finished the first layer.

 

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Well the hull now has two layers of glass and has cured; I'm happy w/ the way it went down, theres a few places to address but over all looks great.

I'm prepping for the keel and more resin, and think as more resin fills the weve it's going to look stunning.

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

looks pretty stunning already, Bruce.  Keep posting the pictures!

 

Gero

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Thanks agan Gero.... I've made and fit the Keel; I'm going to glue it to the bottom w/ resin and 1 1/2" glass strips down each side clamping it tight w/ ratchet straps and two screw at the stem ends until it cures.

 

Do you boat experts think that will be strong enough or should I still add 

1" stainless screws when I get to the inside? and then cover them w/ glass& resin.

Bruce

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

I think you're going to find that glass cloth does not like 90 degree corners without a fillet .

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   KEEL ON

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

RE: Scratch Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   

Well sand out the two layers of glass and added the first fill coat; that's 1 1/2 Gal.
of epoxy resin I have more on the way, it shipped today.

There's quite a few people that have trouble w/ this resin; It has to be how there mixing it, I've had no troubles at all.

You really need to watch there videos; and stir very well w/ a 2 to 1 ratio ONLY!!
Unlike other epoxies and fiberglass resins adding more catalyst does NOT make it set faster; it just gets rubbery.

I had a few bubbles under the second layer so I cut them out w/ a blade and sanded; most of the day was spent sanding, I put the fill coat on in 1 1/2 hrs spreading it w/ a brush and plastic squeegee.

Check it out,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

RE: Scratch Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Well while waiting for the resin to get here; I thought I would let what has been applied cure a bit, it makes it better for sanding.

So I started on some paddles and the yoke to keep busy; The first paddle is my funny lil honeys, she requested a short wide blade.

The handles and yoke are Hard rock maple w/ a small piece of Walnut for grip on the handle, the paddles blade is strips of Walnut, Cedar and Maple.

Check it,

Bruce

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

AS YOU CAN SEE THERE'S STILL A GOOD BIT OF SHAPING YET TO DO.

RE: Scratch Building a 16' ceder strip cannoe

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This time I roughed out a blank for my paddle finished the yolk slimmed down the handle on my honeys paddle and also WET sanded w/ 120 grit for about 4 hrs on one side of the hull.

The hull needs about 4-6 more hours of sanding before applying the last coat of fill resin, then it will have to be sanded all over once again w/ 180 grit.

Bruce

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

Bruce,

Nice work on the paddles - I like the patterns you've created.  How thin are you going to shave those down to?

Gero

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Thank you Gero

The blad is about 1/2" in the center and the tips will be about  1/8" - 3/16" when done; the handles are about 1" D and taper a bit wider at the handle and blade.

I saw your post about Tite Bond III and that's what I've used here, and I will glass the blades and cover the whole paddle w/ resin; They will last the rest of my life time.

This Tite Bond III is some of the best glue I've ever worked w/ in 30 years of cabinetmaking the Gorilla (wood) glue is very good also but not water proof.

CASCOPHEN would be the best of all of them but would have left dark lines or I could have used epoxy resin; but what a mess to work with.

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

   Well the final fill coat of resin is down it will come off the form tomorrow.

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Off the form w/ the top edge trimmed and rough sanded.

There's not as much glue mess inside as I thought there would have been; although it needs some touch up's around the top edge, but it's nothing some sanding and resin can't fix.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The inside: first side and bottom scraped rough sanded and puttied.

Bruce

 

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Okay I sanded & puttied all day inside and the out side; the out side has no more orange peal and the inside needs just a bit more sanding, I'll get to that in the morning.

I have two questions though; one I've already asked but never got an answer, do I need to add stainless screws to the keel even though I glued it down w epoxy resin and taped the sides? or is this extra weight and over kill?

I know I need to reinforce the inner stem w/ 6 oz glass cloth befor glassing; but should I apply a thin coat of resin to the whole inside to make sure all the voids are filled before glassing the inside, while I'm glassing the stems?

Thanks to anybody that helps,

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

screws are not necessary.   its epoxied and glassed.  nothing more needs to be done.

with respect to 'reinforcing' the inner stem....not sure that is necessary beyond glassing the inside of the hull.  sometimes people put an extra strip of cloth in the stem/stern becuase they can't get a the same 'big' piece of cloth they are using for the inside to also work into the stem or stern without fold developing.   so they will glass the stem and stern with a small piece of cloth and then when they come in with the big piece of cloth for the rest of the inside, they cut it short and don't try to get into the stem or stern....but at least overlap it slightly with the glass that was already placed there.

that said, and this relates to your last question.  if you don't have a smooth surface to lay the cloth on, you will develop voids/bubbles under the glass which don't look nice and is not strong and become places water inevitably works its way into.  in the stem and stern, folks often will make a wood flour fillet so they have a nice rounded surface in the stem and stern so it will take the glass with no voids.  if you don't like the look of a fillet, you can spend time working the wood to get a smooth surface.

on your question about pre-coating with epoxy.  i make it a practice to apply a 'seal coat' before applying glass.  a seal coat of epoxy is a quickly applied thin coat of epoxy that seals the wood and prevents it from drinking any more epoxy.  the seal coat is applied and allowed to cure.  it should not make the wood shiny or look like a finish....you are just sealing the pores.   this way, when you apply the glass, the epoxy that is being used at that time, is staying where you expect it to be wetting out the glass.  makes the glassing process easier to manage....often keeps the boat lighter and helps avoid out-gassing (little bubbles developing under the glass).  the other advantage of a seal coat is it helps expose any voids that really should be filled/dealt with before the glass goes on.  lot easier to deal with it at this point that after the glass is there.

looks like you are moving along swell,

howard

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Howard.....Thank you so much for answering my questions this will help me tremendously.

I'm not going to worry about the look of the inerstems because they'll be covered w/ a bulkhead panel, but I'll reinforce them w/ glass; leave off the screws and give the inside hull a seal coat first then check for any voids once again.

Then I'll glass the inside; I was thinking of over lapping the flat bottom only w/ two layers of 4 oz cloth, the sides will get one w/ two fill coats of resin on everything.

Thank's again,

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Okay that's done here it is so far;

 

 

 

 

 

 

After sanding I reinforced the inner stems w/ 6 oz. cloth and resin; while doing this I gave the whole in side a light coat of resin, this makes it easier when the glassing begins.

The wood won't be able to soak up so much resin and you use less and have less a chance of getting bubbles.  

It's not perfect inside but I'm not entering any contest this boat is to be used and will be just fine for me and my honey. 

But you can now see what it will looks like for the most part w/ out the seats and gunnels,decks and yolk.

Check it out,

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   GLASSING THE IN SIDE:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Okay update: I started at 10:00AM laying resin and finished 3 hrs later you get this; the fiberglass sheet wouldn't cover the entire project  So I get to do the same thing once again in the opposite direction.

But this will give me 2 layers of 4 oz cloth on the bottom a total of 12 oz.

I wrapped it around the top edge where it only got one layer on the top out side edge.

This will get more resin once the Inwall , Scuppers and Gunnals go on.

Check it,

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Todays progress update,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Well after sanding and prepping the hull for the next fiberglass sheet; I wet on to finishing the Bow & Stern decks and had a look at the inwale and scuppers w/ the gunwale clamped in place to see how they will all fit together.

I also worked on the bulkhead Bow water proof storage compartment; I installed a ring around the 1/4" panel that will be fiber glassed on both sides.

I will most likely make another storage compartment in the stern but it will be open air w/ an oval opening and possibly a Maple rack inside.

 

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   LAST OF THE GLASS IS DOWN ON THE HULL,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Well the last layer of glass is down 

And it looks tight and smooth it still needs a fill coat and some sanding touch up's and light resin coat on the outside top edges.

Then then the Maple trims, seats, yolk, bulkheads and decks start going on.

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   The final fill coat of resin was applied to the inside and the outside top edges today; Most of the fiberglass work is now finished except the decks and bulkheads. 

Next it mounting the scuppers w/ resin; then inwale and gunwales.

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

Bruce,

looking good.  Just out of curiosity, what to you estimate the final weight of the canoe to be when all is said and done?

Gero

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Gero..... The plans say 74 lbs??  When built in Redwood w/ a standered set of seats?

My seats will have backs on them; and there will be at least one bulkhead compartment ( the Bow) and they didn't have scuppers on the one in the plans either.

my guess 85 - 90 lbs??

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   SCUPPERS ADDED,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Well it took a bit of time and two batches of epoxy to get them all glued on today; I made kerfs in the longer Bow strips to get the curve. These wil be covered w/ 7/16" x 3/4" Maple strips once everything has cured and a 1" stainless screw will go in each of the scuppers; all the way through to the Gunwale and be caped over w/ a maple pluge.

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Okay well I've sanded the inwales flush w/ the scupers and I'm ready for gluing the gunwales.

I've also have fitted the sterns deck and have it resdy for resin; there was one scupper that was to low so I made a piece to fix that.

Next I'll glue the Gunwales and add a scarf joint just like I did on the inwales; the yolk will connect through these seams tying everting toghther making them stronger.

I've also made the open air stern bulkhead and a porthole from two pieces of Maple; once I have the Bow bulkhead ready the backs will be glassed and I'll glue in the stern deck.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Until next time.

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Okay update,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Okay the progress has slowed because of waiting on resin to cure; but the gunwales are on and I'm now bending the the seat frames and then setting the yolk.

I had to finish the gunwales first before adding the bulkheads then the decks will be added each time it's a 24 hr wait for resin to cure.

The gunwales were screwed on w/ #10 - 1" stainless steal screws every 6" -7" depending on the placement of the scuppers; these will be caped w/ Maple plugs so you don't see the screws, and sanded flush to match the gunwale.

I'll be bending the back rest for the seats as well, and both pieces will have a wedge shape angling to the small of the back; and these will be hinged w/ brass hinges so they can lay flat for transportation. 


Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Yolk rough fitted and first seat rail bent.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is the back of seat rail for the forward seat.

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Update:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Update: Plugs in the screw holes: aft deck & bulkhead porthole glued in; and I added a 3/8" dowel through each side of the yoke.

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

  Amazingly explained and neatly depicted through such a large number of very beautiful photos of different parts and of course different views of make up of these wooden boats ,perhaps there may be use of red meranti and teak logs in some parts along with use of metallic strips of great strength with  high technical precision. I love very much and enjoyed to greater extant of all these unique photos.

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Thank you Jose for your kind words......I've just realized that I missed posting how I instaled the bulkhead w/ the porthole; once I had a good fit I held a square w/ two scraps of wood and hot melt glued the seams from the inside.

This held the bulkhead in place while I glassed the back of the panel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm now fitting the bow deck and bulkhead and working on the seats more photos in a day or so.

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   CANOE UPDATE:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Well I made the Maple trim for the aft deck, glued the first set of seat rails, fit the Bow bulkhead and deck and have the second set of seat rails soaking in hot water; they will be steamed later on today and bent I'm trying to get more bend in these there the front rails.

I'm also working on the upper section of the seats these ( the seat backs) will have a slight bend on the top, and I think I'll make these all from wood no webbing like the seat will have.
 

Question:

How important is it to glass the decks? or can you get away w/ just a few coats of epoxy resin before varnishing?

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

my recomendation is glass the deck.  it will be much tougher relative to just a couple epoxy coats.

you can do deck glass relatively light.  4 oz cloth is just fine and easy to work with.   wets out easily, fill coats -- only about another two coats and you are ready to go.

the weave holds the epoxy coat together much better than raw wood where in  my experience, micro cracks develop in the epoxy-only covering  allowing moisture to get into the underlying wood and you start to get discoloration.   never had that problem on a glassed deck.

the epoxy glass matrix has significantly different properties compared to a straight thin coat of epoxy.  do an experiment on a piece of wax paper marked out with a three inch squares.  square 1:  three coats of epoxy; square 2: three coats of epoxy wetted-out 4 oz glass.   pull the results off the wax sheet and play with the results.  square 1 will basically crack/crumble.  square 2 will be a very tough piece of plastic.   which one do you want on your deck now?

not a lot of extra work relative to several coats of epoxy done at this stage.

howard

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Great explanation Howard.... That's what I'll do, I'm just hoping Ihave enough epoxy resin left in the jugs or I'll have to buy more?

I'm working on the seat rails and preping the back of bulkhead & underside of the deck getting them ready for glass.

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   UPDATE:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-haXhn-vQDSs/VC3O6RSiHgI/AAAAAAAAAzE/Q47EbVJDxGc/w607-h809-no/100_5020.JPG

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

Looking good, Howard.

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Thank you Howard: I'm going to try and get some glassing done on the bulkhead and decks today.

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   UPDATE:  SANDING , SANDING, SANDING

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Well I had to sand where the bulkhead will be glassed in place and I also wanted to sand under the inwales and scuppers plus blend in the piece I added under the yoke; While doing this I was covered w/ dust and so I just kept sanding.
This was the first rough sanding w/ 120 grit to ready the hull for varnish; I was trying to sand down all the drips and Orange peel there's still more to do, then it will be sanded w/ 180 / 220 grit everywhere and finally some varnish will get applied 5 -6 coats sanding in between each coat.

So there's going to be some sanding,sanding,sanding,sanding,sanding and more sanding, in the weeks to come.

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

bruce,

i noticed you said you were covered with dust while epoxy sanding.

i would just like to say that it's important to have a vacume system and some protection from epoxy dust.  it can generate an alergic reaction and is pretty bad stuff for your skin and certainly your lungs.

with the skin contact, its often an alergy/sensitivity that will develop after repeated exposure and can put your epoxy boat building days in jeapordy.

apologies if i read something that wasn't really there.  i know a lot of folks are reading how your build is going and wanted to make sure people were aware of the need to avoid epoxy dust contact with skin and lungs.

looks like it is coming along great.
 

howard

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Thank you Howard... I mostly wet sand kepping the dust down; when I said I was covered I basicly ment I was already into the sanding so I kept going for the day.

There's still a great deal of sanding before the brush gets dipped in varnish.

But I'm getting closer today I glassed in the bow bulkhead and deck to form a water proof seal (hopefully) I left a 2 " overhang / boarder insideon all edges and w/ a wet bottom on the deck, after wetting in the whole backside of the bulkhead; I placed and clamped in the deck then reached inside w/ a brush taped to a scrap stick and pressed the extra 2" piece to the bottom of the deck making the seal?

Then I also glassed the top of the aft deck and touched up some areas around the yoke that I had sanded.

I didn't show inside the bulkhead but I have photos if anybody wants to see these just ask then I'll post them; it's hard to tell what your seeing in these photos.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   The final epoxy fill coat on the aft deck & yoke.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Well I was worried about the final epoxy finish on the aft deck though, now that it has cured I think it's looking very nice if I do say my self.

This is all of the epoxy resin that's going on the aft deck; it's finished.

Today I'll cut mount, glue the bow trim curve deck piece in and glass the bow deck; it has been sanded flush w/ the sides and a second epoxy coat has been added this should make the glassing of the top better.

I have just enough epoxy resin left to wet out the glass and give the bow a fill coat.

I hope to be; able to start varnishing the hull by the weekend. 

And I'm still working on the seats; one seat back is now glued and I'm working on the seat frame that will get the webbing, (where your but will go) you'll see how this will go in the photos.

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   All the hull wood working ad glassing are now done just one more fill coat of epoxy resin tomorrow on the bow deck then the sanding will commence.

 

 

 

 

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   OKAY I HAD A GUY ON ONE OF THE OTHER SITES ASK HOW MUCH IT COST ME TO BUILD SO HERE'S THE ROUNDED BREAKDOWN.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

LUMBER & SCREWS & GLUE : STRONG BACK FRAME / FORM - $59.52

LUMBER: western red cedar - 1" x 6" 18' $113

MAPLE BOARDS: $140

EPOXY RESIN: AeroMarine 300/21 1.5 gal kit w/ pumps shipped - $121.80


EPOXY RESIN: AeroMarine 300/21 1.5 gal kit w/ out pumps shipped - $113.69
(note- buy at least 3 gal at one time for a canoe this size and save $$$ on shipping)

FIBER GLASS: Thayercraft inc. 30 yds. - $ 82.21

Wood putty: Famowood: 1 pt. - $ 23 (note mix the wood dust w/ the wood glue and make you own; it matches better.

WOOD GLUE: TITEBOND: III Water proof 1 gal. - $ 28 at Lowes

CASCOPHEN RESOURCINAL : MARINE GRADE GLUE 1 QT. - $33.85

SEAT WEBBING: 1" POLYESTER STRAP 40 FT. - $13.27 (shipped) - $25.62

VARNISH: JAMESTOWN DIS. : 2 QT GLEAM GLOSS KIT -$52.99 plus $5 hazmat and shipping.

6" BLACK DECK PLATE: JAMESTOWN DIS -$13.49

BRASS EYES: 3/4" X 7/8" 1 PR. JAMESTOWN DIS - $8.25

JAMESTOWN DIS: SHIPPED TOTAL - $ 95

SANDPAPER:- $ 80

STAINLESS STEAL SCREWS:- $25

ROUNDED TOTAL : - $920

NOW THE VARNISHING STARTS.

Bruce

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Nice boat. That's really all I have to say except that I wanted to be the 100th post on this thread which is the longest I have ever seen in my 15+ years on here!

George K

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Thank you George.....YES this forum is very different than all the others I write on I was expecting more of a responce from all of the viewers; you know asking questions, giving tips things to watch out for and really helping out???

After saying that I did have a few guys that did answer my questions and were a big help Thank you to them

I build Giant scale model Airplanes as a hobby and post on several threads on about four sites and I have much more responce and participation there.

Maybe on my next Boat I'll post on a diferent site?

I chose this site because I live about 20 miles away from CLC's location.

Here's a photo of the boat I'm thinking of building next.

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

Bruce,

The majority of builders on here are probably more prone to stitch and glue but there are a lot of strip guys here as well. The Guillemot Kayak forum, run by Nick Schade, is the reverse with the majority being strip builders. Both forums are excellent places to get information. I haven't followed every post on this thread but it seems the majority of your questions got answered. And you have done a great job posting your techniques that will be helpful to a lot of new strip guys. Just because there wasn't as much traffic on your thread as you expected doesn't mean it wasn't being followed. There are a lot of guys here who read and don't post. If you look at the Guillemot forum the numbers are given for each view of a thread. There might be 20 posts to a thread but several hundred views. I suspect the same is true here. So keep us up to date on whatever it is you're building! I personally would love to see a thread on what you're thinking of building next as there's a Zephyr 16 (1939 stepped hydroplane by A. A. Apel) on my bucket list.

Enjoy varnishing and get that thing on the water!

George K

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Thanks George I like everyting from that time period cars, planes, boats and even clothing.

I'm trying to find plans for that style boat taht can have an outboard engine instead of the inboard engine; but at the same time cover the engine mostly?

Not sure if they exist or not but I may be able to modify them I've found a few photos  similar style boats w/ outboards; I'm in the very early stages of this project and have to get a larger detached shop first and do a great deal more planning.

But if you or anybody knows of plans for a boat like this I would love to see them?

I now have two coats of varnish on the first was thinned 10% w/ mineral spirits the second was not thinned.

Because I kept up w/ the sanding during the whole build it wasn't so bad getting it ready for varnish.

 

 

 

 

 

 

There's still a good bit of work yet though.

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

Bruce,

that is one gorgeous canoe, now that the varnish is on.  Thanks for your continued documentation of the process.

Gero

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

I followed your build. I didn't respond because you seemed to have a really good grasp on the process. Also, as previously stated by someone else, I don't have any experience with strippers. Congratulations on nearly completing you boat. JRC

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

Bruce,

Check out Glen-L, Clark Craft and Classic Wooden Boat Plans. You'll find something on one of those.

George K

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Many times I'm tempted to take a finished product, new truck, new gun, new boat, etc out to the driveway and hit it with a piece of concrete.  That way I get the first scratch out of the way and move through remorse  so it doesn't spoil a future  trip.  Just talking................but you know it will happen.  The good thing is you know how to fix it.

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   TAHNKS....Gero,JRC,George and Grumpy

Grumpy you can bet it will be scratched before it leaves here to get put in the water...LOL

George...I found that site last night and they have just what I'm looking for a 16' Malahini; here's a photo of that boat and some of my canoe w/ varnish on the topside / inside.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   I'M STILL WORKING ON THE SEATS AND PADDLES

WHILE I LET THE FIRST COATS OF VARNISH DRY VERY WELL

IT LOOKS LIKE I'LL NEED TWO MORE QT'S -  4 TOTAL

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Well I've let the canoe dry very well there's one QT.of varnish on the hull and I have one left to apply; w/ the small amount left in the can I put two coats on the seat frame and backs and there drying.

I've also bent the pieces for the remake of the front seat base; as I said before they were to short; and I'll be gluing those this evening.

And I also have two sides of the paddles / blades covered w/ glass and epoxy; while doing this I coated my carved handles as well.

So once dry and sanded; then a fill coat goes on both sides and it's another 24 hrs. the dry time is what is slowing me at this point.

The varnish takes 48 hrs min. to dry all the way; once I have enough on the first seat base I'll start to run the red webbing, then I can move on to installing that aft seat bottom.
 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

Bruce,

Thanks for the update. Beautiful paddles. It would be great to see the whole finished project in person some time. You need to plan a trip to the Mid Atlantic Small Craft Festival in St. Michaels, MD, next October. Over 200 hand built boats every year. You would fit right in!

Any schedule for the Malahini yet?

George K 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Thank you George....The Mid Atlantic Boat Show; sounds like we need to put that on our list of things to do! Were less than two hrs away from

St Michaels and we were planing on a trip there anyway.

The Malahini is a good ways away I need a bigger shop detached from the house or a place to rent space. OH yea and all the materials & an Engine.

I would like to get the plans and start stocking tools and supplies though over the next year? Were thinking of moving so this may happen for the best and I get an detached shop out of the deal?

Here's some photos of the aft seat getting the webbing I used #6 stainless steal screws & washers to hold them in place.

The padles now have a third and final coat of epoxy resin and after a few days I'll sand them and start w/ the varnish coats.

 

THIS IS HEAVY STRAP POLY; THERE'S VERY LITTLE GIVE.

 

 

 

 

I THINK THESE ARE BETTER THAN STAPLES

 

 

YOU CAN SEE THE SEAT FRAMES ARE BENT 4 PIECES OF 1/4" AND HAVE A 5/16" OAK DOWEL; AND ALL GLUED W/ EPOXY GLUE.

 

 

 

 

THERE WILL BE TWO LEATHER STRAPS HOLDING EACH SIDE FROM FOLDING BACK AND A SNAP & STRAP TO HOLD THE SEAT BACK DOWN WHILE NOT IN USE.

 

 

I'LL MOUNT THE BACKS W/ THE HINGES AFTER MOUNTING TO THE CANOE.

 

 

THESE CURVES DON'T LOOK LIKE MUCH BUT WILL HELP YOUR LEGS AFTER SITTING AWHILE.

 

 

THIRD COAT OF VARNISH.

 

 

I'LL SCREW BRASS EYES TO THE BOW & STERN W/ 1 1/2" BRASS SCREWS INTO THE STEM.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

THERE FINAL EPOXY COATING.

 

 

NOW I SAND THESE ONCE AGAIN AND START VARNISHING.

I SHOULD BE ABLE TO MOUNT THE AFT SEAT IN A DAY OR SO, BUT IT WILL COME OUT SO I CAN FINISH THE VARNISHING.

Bruce

 

 

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

Great job. How much are you going to charge for rent? JRC   

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   HELLO JRC....Not sure what you want to rent?

UPDATE: Temp instal of aft seat and prep for the Bow seat.

 

 

 

I'M NOT USING THESE NYLOCK NUTS UNTIL FINAL INSTLATION TAKEING THEM OFF AND ON WEARS OUT THE NYLOCK.

 

 

WING NUTS ARE USED TO MAKE IT EASIER WHILE WORKING.

 

 

BRASS ACORN NUTS WILL REPLACE THESE REG. NUTS.

 

 

LEATHER STRAPS WILL RUN FROM THE FRONT SEAT RAILS TO THE TOP OF THE SEAT BACKS.

 

 

WHEN FOLDED DOWN FOR TRANSPORT THERE WILL BE A SMALL LATHER STRAP IN THE CENTER  SEAT BACK RAIL W/ A SNAP TO HOLD IN PLACE.

 

 

BOW SEAT RAILS CUT AND READY TO MOUNT.

 

 

THIS ONE WILL HANG DOWN 1 1/2" - 2" OR SO.

 

 I've temp. mounted the aft seat to see how and show it will work; I will have to take it all apart and give everything 2-3 more coats of varnish, even the webbing will come off.

The nuts on top of the rails are inset but they will be replaced w/ brass acorn nuts this will look much nicer; on the bottom I've used wingnuts for the ease of temp mounting, these will be replaced w/ nylock 1/4" - 20 stainless nuts.

The brass tube is 1/2" w/ 1/16" thick wall w/ a 1/4" x 20 stainless all thread running through; I'm think about in setting the 1/4" nylock nuts on the bottom flush w/ the seat rails.

I still need to order the leather straps, snaps & studs; these will hold the seat backs from folding all the way back and down while in transport.

As I said before the dry time of the varnish is what's slowing me down at this stage of the build, 48 hrs dry time for each coat.

Bruce

 

 

 

 

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Both seats have been installed and removed the webbing was removed from the aft seat and a second coat of varnish was applied now to both seat frames; the paddles now have a second coat of varnish as well.

The hull has three coats of varnish on her now; we had a freek 80 degree day today so I removed the back door and took the canoe out to dry / cure in the heat; my basement was about 60 -65 degrees and progress was to slow.

Next: I'll be ordering two more qt.'s of varnish in a day or so this should give me enough to get 5-6 good coats on.

So I though it was a good time to clean the whole shop sweep, vac & mop

this should help w/ the dust on the final coats.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Well hello guys it's been a good while and life has gotten in the way

of my maiden voyage but we were able to get her in the water this past weekend.

All went very well

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

Congratulations!  Have fun!

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   

Thank you Dick Were looking forward to our next outting.

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Were taking her (Serenity) a week long vacation next week I'll be sure and get some updated photos.

 

Bruce

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   We had her out again this past weekend.We camped at Greenbrier State park MD. USA.

 

 

 

 

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

Hi Splinterz,

You have displayed an impressive array of woodworking skills throughout the build.  I may be picking your brain in the future.  It is good to see you out on the water enjoying the end product.

I built a Glen-L Malahini over 10 years ago and continue to enjoy it.  It is a great boat design.

-Jeff

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

Bruce,

Glad to see you enjoying the boat. Great job on the build. Don't forget the Mid Atlantic Small Craft Festival in St. Michaels first weekend of October. I won't be able to make it this year but you really should get the boat over there. Always a fun time with a lot of like minded builders.

George K

RE: Scratching Building a 16' ceder strip canoe

   Glad to see your boat, I love it ,

    beautiful, nice, thanks for sharing

   

    plywood

    skynovo

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