Chesapeake 17

This is my first build and it is a learn as you go process. I have the inside of the hull filleted and epoxied. So far, so good, other than a few work sessions extending to the early morning hours. Time flies when you are having fun.

Several problems have given me some questions that need answers from more experienced builders.

I applied the 3" fiberglass to the fillets with a brush and epoxy. One edge of the tape was thicker than the other and after curing this edge was noticeably higher than the other. I used a scraper to bring that edge down and applied the second coat of epoxy. All is good. Is this a normal situation with the glass tape?

Now the the boat is upside down and ready to be filled and sanded prior to glassing.  I noticed that the bow and stern have slight twists in them. As I sight down the keel to the bow and stern there is a kink at the points where the bottom and side panels join. I took care to take out the twist in the hull using the sticks at the 1/3 and 2/3 positions, and used a line to bring the ends to line up with the center line. Everything else looks good. Is there any need or any way to straighten these out?


3 replies:

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RE: Chesapeake 17

Somehow I posted the previous before I was finished.

Continuing:

I could sand the problems out, but that would eliminate a layer or two of plys, and I suppose would mean a painted hull. Some thing I have considered from the start.

I may try a heat gun carefully used to solve this.

What do you think?

Buzz

 

RE: Chesapeake 17

See previous thread on epoxy fillet softening/adjusting:

http://www.clcboats.com/forum/clcforum/thread/22127.html

Note, this was a 12" long section of fillet which I was able to soften and adjust panel alignment.  Your situation sounds a lot more extensive, I couldn't imagine doing a much larger area at one time.  If you feel you can make your adjustment in stages, it might work out.  

RE: Chesapeake 17

Scraping the edge of the tape to remove a ridge on the edge is a good way to go.

Re the twists... I've never tried to straighten anything out like that, but if it isn't something you can ignore, and can't do it by heating the joints, consuder running a thin pull saw down the joint each side of the affected sections. It is possible that this won't allow enough movement to fix it, but it might be worth a try. Whether it allows you to fix it or not, you could apply painters tape or packing tape on the outside, get some epoxy into the cut, and add a short piece of glass tape to strengthen it up again.

Keith

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