I built a WD 10 hybrid a couple of years ago.  I also had a heck of a job bending cedar strips and finally soaked them in PVC pipes to help.

The deck came out fine. As per instructions, I removed the deck from the forms to fiberglass. I also removed the deck forms from the boat.

When the time came to attach the deck to the boat, I ran into a serious problem.  The hull had contracted a bit without the deck forms and the deck had spread a bit.  The result was a badly mismatched fit.

I had to plane away large areas of the deck edge for a good fit.  It was a lot of work and marred an otherwise perfect build.

I know this doesn't really answer your question, but just be aware of potential problems  to avoid them.

Good luck with the rest of the build.

RichMPL

P.S.  People love my boat, and noone ever noticed my flawed deck edges!

I recommend you trim the deck after is has been permenantly attached to the hull.  The hull will more than likely change a little in shape when you remove the temporary deck forms and by not trimming the deck, you'll have a little more wood to play with when you fit the deck back on to the hull.  When I put my hybrid deck on, I tried something new which worked well for me.  Here's a link to that thread,

http://www.clcboats.com/forum/clcforum/thread/17746.html

Cheers.

Thanks Gentlemen.

Dogan, I recalled seeing the initial post about your new approach, felt it will make the final fit of deck to hull much easier and plan on using it. Did you just knock out your spacers with a chisel after the tacks cured? 

I used heavy duty hot glue to attach the little blocks which were just scrap strip pieces from the deck build.  I removed them with a pair of channel lock pliers....just grabbed on to each one and gave it a twist.  Then I cleaned up the hot glue remnants with a chisel.  Since the underside of the deck was glassed, that was realtively easy to do.  Of course the ones up in the bow were a stretch but not too much.