Many cedar strip canoes  the strips are glued with Titebond glue. The strips are then incapsulated with epoxy the same CLC. 

I built one 10 years ago and it is a beuatiful canoe that has held up well.

dave 

For most woods, Titebond III works best for me. No inital bond but once dry- 24 hours, certainly stronger then the surrounding wood.

Any kind of wood should work for epoxy-encapsulted crafts. Some woods may not glue very securely, possibly because of high oil-content. Then you may want to switch gears & experiment with multi-part epoxy glues. Two of my boats include some plexiglas accent pieces proving if you find the right combination, just about any materials can be stuck together. It all gets buried in glass & epoxy anyway.

Lew 

I use Titebond II. Did use Titebond III to assemble a birdsmouth paddle shaft, but for cedar striping, and strip built centerboards and rudders I stick (literally & figureatively) with Titebond II. Easy cleasnup, no need to wear gloves, scrapes easy and sands well.

Just finished a hybrid WRC strip deck on my latest kayak.

Titebond III for the mast cores and cockpit coaming on my schooner. The mast cores were then covered with carbon fiber and glass, the coamings were glassed inside & out.

Laszlo

Thanks looks like Tightbond will replace epoxy on my Yak's strips!