the bow should have been stern end thanx 

The stern is a bear. After building 2 12s and a 14, I would suggest a wet rag, a little patience and extra wiring holes. Get the wood really wet, wire it the best you can, and wait for it to really dry before tacking. When the wood dries it kind of sets into the twisted shape. If the wood isn't completely dry the epoxy won't soak in and bond well. The problem with tacking it now, is that it would set up without the stresses of the bow on the hull and probably would not line up well later. They are tough enough to get together when following the directions.

Make my next to last sentance the deck.

I'm on my third boat in the WD design, and I agree, the stern is a tough spot. What I did in all three boats was use the stern piece that came with the kit as a pattern to cut a solid piece of mahogany, then beveled that to match the flare of the hull. I used sheetrock screws as temporary clamps until the epoxy set. If the strn continues to give you grief, you might want to consider a solid piece of wood instead of the piece that came with the kit.

Jim

I'd like to ask for a little more help on this point.  I'm doing a wood duck double.  I've started wiring in my transom, but it seems almost impossible to get the transom to make the bend while staying flush with the end of the hull panels - seems like it will almost certainly end up sliding inside the hull (forwards).  I am familiar with the trick of wetting the panels and that isn't really the problem.  I am also not afraid of drilling more holes, I just want to get others' experiences before I add 10 wires to this thing and wind them up tight.  Can someone point me at some more pictures?  I can see the wood duck double gallery pictures (on the CLC site) and I have found a couple of WD12 transom pictures.  But what isn't 100% clear is to me whether the transom is fitting between the hull panels (so that you end up seeing the end grain from the hull panels), or whether the transom sits just behind the hull panels (so you would see the transom panel grain from the side).  

If the transom goes between the panels, does anyone with experience recommend bevelling the transom edges to help "hold it out" from the hull panels?

I built a Wherry rather than a wood duck, but I believe the transom fit issue is similar in many ways.  My transom would not fit right at the far end, and seemed to find its natural fit 1-2 inches forward.  I spent quite a bit of time trying to make it fit right at the end, but realized I just wasn't being flexible in the build process.  The main thing is to get everything symmetric.

So I wired it in where it wanted to be and trimmmed the strakes to fit, and it worked out just fine.

Hope thats helps a bit.

Hickory

To clarify my question, the transom on this boat curves forward at the bottom to close the bottom panels of the hull.  I know the wd12 transom does not extend this far down, so the issue would be unique to the wd10 and the wd double.  So my concern is that without really excessive wiring and carefully placed holes, I won't be able to bend the transom forward without rotating the whole transom bottom forward.  Anybody with experience on the wd10 or double have an answer to this one?

The wood duck 12 has been the toughest in my opinion, I had done some work re-designing the 10 footer to ease the torture and it is better...I busted the first prototype's bottom panels, but enjoy paddling it anyhow!

The wood duck transom is often a bit "tricky"... I usually add extra wires to to help hold the bottom and side panels together properly. I wire the side and bottom panels as tightly as I can first, then add in the transom.

Sometimes a spring clamp can pinch the bottom panels into shape a little, though it tends to pop off. 

I also often use super-glue "ZAP-A-GAP" with accellerator to tack the panels in proper position when I get them wired tight and close enough that I can squeeze them into proper alignment by hand.

It is a bit fiddly but take your time it can be done!

I recently built a Wood duck 10 Hybrid with cedar strip deck and had similar problems with bow and stern.  Overcame bow with patience and a little brute force but transom was not going to work so I abandoned the ply transom and made up a solid mahogany replacement like the earlier reader.

It finished at around 25mm thick and I rebated it for half the thickness so that the ply finished flush and ply end grain was covered. When I painted the hull I left the transom bright with several coats of varnish as a contrast.

I am UK fan of CLC and bought my boat through their excellent UK organisation Fyne Boat Kits