Photos didn't come through. 

Michael

Are you building from a kit or plans?

 If you are building from plans some of your wiring holes my not be correctly placed.  This happened to me.  I had to cut several wires, pinch the edges together and re-drill the holes.

If you are building from a kit make sure that your building surface is level and not twisted.

Again - kit or plans? If plans the scarf joints could be a tad off. At this point you nmight try snipping wires, wiggling it into shape, and see if a trimming an edge or two would kick it into shape. 

Not sure why the photos didn't come through. Basically once everything is wired tight and I lay a level across the bottom where bulkhead 4 is at there are dips on both sides of ~1/2". I did find some wiring holes to be off and redrilled as needed. All my other bulkeads seem to be fine and everything else wired up pretty easily. I am building from plans. I made my pieces by mounting the plans to melamine with spray mound adhesice and the carefully cutting with a jigs and then cleaning it up with a handplane. I then took this template and used a flush cut router bit to cut out my parts. The bulkheads I precut from CLC. 

I did call CLC and one piece of advice they gave me was to not wire the boat on a flat table as I'd done but instead to wire it one a couple of sawhorses and try to move the sawhorses close together to give the hull more of a curve. This did help a little but not nearly enough.

@ hokeyhydro: When you say trimming an adge or two are you talking about the bottom panel to take basically take out some of the slack that it is allowing it to warp/buckle? 

Thanks all!

I should also mentioned that if I don't wire down bulkead #4 the bottom of the boat looks fine though I do end up with a 7/8" gap between the bottom of the bulkead and the inside of the bottom panel. Am thinking of just add in a 7/8" spacer and moving on! 

I would consider adding the 7/8 spacer.  Is ther any chance that blkd is wrong?  

The bulkhead is correct. I ordered it precut from CLC and when I spoke with them they had me measure it just to be sure (they'd accidentally sent me the old style bulkheads when I first ordered them). I sent some pics to CLC in an email to see what they say. 

Yes, if shaving an edge allows tyhe panels to line up properly, grab your plane. I built the Kaholo from plans and the tricky part was lining up the front bottom panels to the aft bottom. I did that by striking a centerline and thena perpendicular "scarf" line and squaring it all up for scarfing. Just va tweak out of alignment on the front pair of panels will cause grief. I cut frames from CLC plans and did have to shave them in a few spots, nothing major. 

Check out the "KAHOLO BUILD SITE" blog.  It appears as if he did not overlap the two halves of the bow I the area of the first two frames when he scarfed the two forward bottom panels to the single aft bottom panel.  When I bulit my Kaholo I overlapped the bottom in this area.  Did you overlap?  Perhaps not overlapping causes the warping.!  The instruction book shows an overlap but you wouldn't know it unless you were looking for this detail.

@ Cataline Charlie

I think you're right about not overlapping. I honestly don't remeber, I was focusing more on making sure the seams were flat and aligned on the outer edges. I suspect not overlapping would cause the warp I'm experiencing. If the bow parts are glued up too far apart they need to be brought in more which would cause more curvature on the bottom of the hull further back. I think at this point my best option is to put in a spacer. I looked at the Kaholo build side and it looks like he didn't overlap and wound up in the same situation I'm in. Kind of looks like he extended bulkhead 4 in the picutres. He also mentions "expanding a bulkhead". I asked in his thread but he hasn't responded. John Harris from CLC followed up and his advice is to "let the panels assume the most fair shape possible" and I do think having the bottom of the hull sag a bit is better than trying to force it into shape.