WD 10 Side/Bottom Panel Overlap

First time builder here, working on a WD 10.  I stitched the bottom and side panels to the forms, and to each other.  The bottom and side panels are tight, but the side panels are overlapping the bottom panels where they meet.  I followed the bevel plan, but the panels don't seem to want to stay together at the seam (between bottom and side).  It's almost as if the bottom panel is being pulled in.  The overlap is pretty much consistent on both sides.

Any ideas on how to fix this?  See pics below. Thanks in advance for help/advice.Looking stern to bow.Overlap 1Overlap pic 2

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RE: WD 10 Side/Bottom Panel Overlap


RE: WD 10 Side/Bottom Panel Overlap

I agree that should fit much better than it does.  Did you start stitching from the middle and work toward the ends?  You might need to bevel some more.  Sorry, I dont have much as far as suggestions, just work it some more.

RE: WD 10 Side/Bottom Panel Overlap

I believe that your stiches may be too tight.  While building my WD12H (just finished tonight), I found that if the stiches were too tight, it would pull the pannels out of alignment -- if the stiches were just a little tighter, the wire would break. 

Regards,  Mike

RE: WD 10 Side/Bottom Panel Overlap

The more bevel you have on Both Panels, the tighter you will be able to pull them together, looks to me like you need more bevel dude, just a thought...happy building... Ocean

RE: WD 10 Side/Bottom Panel Overlap

 I'm thinking you need to loosen the wire to the temporary forms at that joint. work the joint together then rewire to the temp forms. You may not get a tight fit at the temp forms but that's OK. If you do this and there is a gap between the outside veneers of the plywood then yes, you need to bevel more. We are working on our second WD (from plans) and one thing both builds have in common is gaps at the hull and temp forms. Don't sweat the small stuff, it's not a technical build.

  Looks like you have some nice lines going on! 

RE: WD 10 Side/Bottom Panel Overlap

Thanks for all the advice.  I do think I need to keep in mind that the forms are there to help guide the shape and I don't need to have every board wired tight against them.  I think that's why I have everything wired so tightly right now. 

In looking at the plans again as I tried to figure out this issue, I realize I definitely misinterpreted the bevel plan.  I laid the boards with the fiberglass tape facing up, and beveled the 45 degree angle inward on the bottom of the bottom and side panels; but the way the sideview angle is drawn in the manual, the bevel looks to be in the opposite direction at the top of the panels.  Not realizing how the edges of the bottom and side panels, I was thinking that the opposite 45's meeting up made sense (as if creating a joint in a long run of baseboard molding).  After wiring everything together and seeing that the panels don't align this way, this opposite bevel is definitely causing the panels to slide against each other.  Luckily I hadn't yet beveled the deck pieces or sheer panels, so I did those correctly.

So, a new question: As it seems I didn't bevel away enough material already, do you think I would be safe correcting the bevel on the tops of the side and bottom panel boards to the correct, inward facing direction; or will the second round of beveling on the tops of the side and bottom panels cause too much of a reduction in width?  I know it's tough to answer without seeing it in person, but I'm thinking I will be okay correcting the direction of the bevel.  I was very conservative in how much I took off in the first round of beveling.  Again, this is on the tops of the bottom and side panels only.

I will keep the finger plane away from the boards until I get some feedback from some of you experienced builders.


RE: WD 10 Side/Bottom Panel Overlap

If I understand what you are saying, there are two ways you could try to fix the problem. With the bottom panel bevel being upside down, as it appears to be, simply unwire and remove the bottom panels and turn them over to reverse the bevel.Then fill the open seam along the bottom. Second, if you don't want to do all that and you are comfortable with the lap joints as they fit now, go ahead and glue and fillet the overlap and plane and sand the overlapping edge until it's flush with the bottom after your epoxy has cured.

RE: WD 10 Side/Bottom Panel Overlap

Hmmm... if it's only stitched together with no epoxy, perhaps you could take all of the stiches out and switch the left and right sides around. Would the bevel be on the correct side then?

RE: WD 10 Side/Bottom Panel Overlap

Thanks for all the advice. 

Pocketship and Geowalk--where I reversed the bevel on one edge only, I'd end up with three wrong-side bevels if I moved the side panels to the opposite side, plus the fiberglass tape would be on the outside of the kayak. 

I'm happy to report that the duck is fixed.  I ended up taking the side panels off, opening the ends, and beveling in the correct direction where needed.  Fortunately I had been conservative with the bevel and had no issue with gaps when I took off the extra material to get the right bevel.  The second time around, I followed the rest of the advice from CLC and the forum members above.  I didn't go crazy with tightening the wires, and I made sure I stitched from the middle to the ends.  I also took my time and got help from a neighbor with holding panels in the best position.

I will post pictures of the corrected hull.  Thanks again for the help--I'm sure I'll be back for more as I work my way through the duck! 


RE: WD 10 Side/Bottom Panel Overlap

Here's the re-stitched WD 10 with the deck wired for the first time.


RE: WD 10 Side/Bottom Panel Overlap

Let's try that again...

And please ignore the plastic kayaks hanging in the background.

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