>>>>>I'm having a little trouble getting the WD10 deck to fit symmetrically on the hull.  The didnt get the tacks on the deck to cure in just the right position so the shears are at slightly different angles. 

>>>>>>>>>>

This post and some earlier ones (see Wood Duckling) has me puzzled a little bit.  Wood Duck decks, after the tack-welding procedure, are still VERY flexible.  When stitched onto the hull the final time, the two highly flexible assemblies will, in essence, "fair" or smooth each other out. What you see after the first tack-welding and hull and deck are separated is NOT what you get; there's still loads of flexibility, and that's part of stitch-and-glue boatbuilding.

All of the Wood Ducks I've built have been in marathon-boatbuilding settings where I didn't have much time to fret over the details.  They've all come out smooth and fair, particularly the hull-to-deck joint.  

The only thing that frightened me much was when the deck "sprung back" after the temporary forms were removed.  Sometimes I rigged some tape or some wire across the sheer edges so it didn't spring out as much.  In the end, it never mattered;  the deck assembly bent easily to match the hull.  (Actually, the hull spreads out a little and the deck bends in a little.)  Fair curves resulted.  That's Wood Duck building.

Time-lapse of Wood Duck building.

John, talk about a response from the horses mouth.  Now thats service!

 My issue isnt exactly like the duckling one posted.  I get some of that wavy ness but it goes away when the deck is stitched to the hull, no problem there.

I'm having trouble getting the deck to "bend in" a little.  Im still doing this test fitting with the big round former in place in front of the cockpit, I guess I should try it without that before I do anything else but my sheers still got tacked too "spread out".  I have already tried with trick with some wire under the deck pulling the sheers under the deck together.  Maybe that with the former removed will help.  I could leave a wire like that in place until after tacking the deck to the hull.   Perhaps my tacks are a little large too because It doesnt have a lot of bend in the sheer joint especially inwards, outwards it isnt bad.  Really its mostly the starboard side thats giving me fits.

 Thanks, really helps to talk it out.  I like the WD time lapse video I have watched it many, many times.

-CA

Almost finished with my second wood duck 12. The second one overlapped by almost 2 inches per side, and I was working by myself. Removing the forms allows the hull the get skinnier and the deck to get fatter. Start wiring in the middle of the cockpit where it is most flexible and wire a few stitches on each side working towards the ends. Leave about a 1/4 inch gap so you can apply epoxy to the joint. You might need to use some caveman tools and techniques to get the joint to line up.(screwdrivers and prying) It can be a challenge to pry with one hand and tighten wire with the other. Good luck.

Hey Chris.  I recently finished the construction portion of my Wood Duck 12 and the seams all but fell into place.  There was only one MINOR area forward and, while the epoxy was flexable, I used electrical tape to perfect that area of sheer seam.  Once cured, the tape came right off and I had VERY little sanding to fair the extra epoxy to the hull...  ~BRUCE~

Thanks all,

 I think I got it now.  I worked a few sheer tacks free forward of the cockpit on each side, removed the last big deck form then wired, stretch-wrapped the deck in place and re-applied the tacks reaching in from the cockpit, its curing now and the shape is much, much nicer.

The key was the form, once it was removed I could manipulate the deck pretty well, just like John said.  Operator error, follow the directions and all will go well, I was just nervous the deck wouldnt hold its curve without the form.  Suprisingly the tacked deck holds its curve tighter without it.

-Chris