Bruce,

You are exactly correct -  minmal fillets, pull the wires and then bed the endpieces in woodflour/putty mixture.

Follow this link for official CLC instructions on how to post photos. The link is also available in the text at the top of the initial forum page, but it's sort of hidden. Be nice if the CLC webmaster would emphasize it somehow since people are still asking this question.

Good luck with both,

Laszlo

I had a few wires that got stuck in the epoxy. heat the wire for few seconds and it should pull right out. worked great for me.

I did the same for my WD12.  I ended up having to heat the wires to get them out, "tack welding" in that very narrow space of the bow and stern was not practical and I was planning on a little extra epoxy there any way.  do not fret too much on the fit of the wood block as a nice bed of thickened epxoy will fill the gaps. 

Have you planned your handles yet?  reason I ask is that is that I did a woven handle on two pad-eyes.  As strenth is a concern with handles I back plated mine and through bolted them.  The back plate was 6MM ply epoxied in over the fiber-glass tape with extra wide fillets.  Worked brilliantly, only you need to leave a little space on top of the end blocks so my blocks stop about 3" from the top.  Really happy how it all turned out though it was really a tight fit to get a wrench on the bow handles :)

you can see the handles in the last picture: http://www.clcboats.com/forum/clcforum/thread/11099.html

Hey to all.  THANK YOU for the information.  I hadn't decided on handles yet EXCEPT that they would NOT be metal or plastic due to the possible "banging" and chafe during paddeling times.   VERY open to suggestions.  ~TUGBRUCE~

When building my Wood Duck 10 hybrid, I used Lazlo's wood blocks in bow and stern idea.  The wood made a great place to attach bronze eye straps bow and stern.  Not easy to find, but they look great and hold up better than brass.

Then I carved two handles from 1/2" thick mahogony and attached with black cord. With several coats of varnish, they look beautiful.

Who wants plastic handles on a wooden boat!!

Rich

Hey Rich.  I couldn't agree more.  Last July & went to a CLC demo in Sacramento, planning on building a Passagemaker Dinghy.  But it was damaged so I paddled a Wood Duck and REALLY enjoyed it.  Then a friend of mine brought two plastic kayaks over.  That was my real  introduction to kayaking.  I can't wait to go kayaking with he & his wife, me in DAFFY DUCK (My beautiful Wood Duck-12) and them in the plastic fantastics...   What a great day that will be!!!!   ~TUGBRUCE~

Tugbruce, if you want to email me, I will happily email details of my handles.  I too wanted to avoid the banging/chafing so I went with a double ended handle like the one that CLC sells (Fancy Grab Handle), I was not keen on the toggle banging on the bow and dragging on the water.  I wanted a hand made version so I wove my own, gotta love the internet :).

email: david at dragonsong dot ca

TugBruce,

Wait till you hear the compliments you'll get on your boat.  In my first season hundreds of people admired my hybrid. Once, I was stopped by police at a checkpoint. Expecting to get a summons for not having a front plate, I was amazed when the officer said "Beautiful kayak, man"! and waved me on.

By the way, to keep my mahogany toggles from flopping around during transport, I use foam pipe insulation and a rubber band.  Works great!

Rich

I have the CLC plastic kayak toggles on my CH-16LT.

http://www.clcboats.com/shop/products/boat-gear/kayak-toggles.html

To stop the toggles from banging, I put a small piece of velcro on the toggle and the deck. So far, it works great. No problems on the water, and when the kayak is on top of my car, the toggles haven't come loose at speeds up to about 50 mph. I haven't driven on the freeway with the kayak on the roof, so I'm not sure what will happen at higher speeds.

Mark

Ahhhhhh.... the builder;s forum.  Nothing better.  Thank you friends...   ~TUGBRUCE~

I've found that the best way to avoid banging is to avoid the toggles. You can't beat a rope loop for quiet. To avoid the problem of the rope cutting one's hand in half, I used thick rope and spliced it back on itself to double the thickness.

If this isn't enough for comfort, there's thesolution that my wife came up with for her CH16LT - she made a removeable sleeve from 1" PVC pipe. Cut the pipe to 4" or so, cut a slit down the length of the pipe, widen the slit until the rope can just be forced into the sleeve. Open each end of the slit into a V to make starting the rope easier and round off all the edges.

The rope loop is always attached to the boat while the sleeve is only there while carrying it. No banging, no hand pain.

Have fun all,

Laszlo

I also wanted a secure solid block to attach padeye's to and I inserted a 2 oak blocks into the bow and stern, they have anchors into the endpour to hold them down. Then after the deck was attached I used bronze screws and padeyes for my handles, I remove these for long highway trips or secure them into the ropes.

I guess I didn't read the fine print on posting pic's,    oops

here is the link.

http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2784524390100154152kIOlVj

Ted B

OK, thanks to ALL your comments, I have decided....  I'm going with under-deck backing blocks (Spruce),and bronze (4 screw ) pad eyes, bow & stern.  Then I'll splice a line handle to a snap shackle and be able to clip them on when transporting, but detatch them when paddeling...  

 ALSO, although I have only been working on my WD-12 (DAFFY DUCK) for about 14 hours so far, I have two builder tips I'd like to share with the rest of you BUT photos will "tell" the story better and, despite the great guide to posting photos on this forum, I only know how to attach them to an email.  So I need a volinteer I can email them to, who will then post them here    Tugbruce and my E mail service is g... mail dot com  ~BRUCE~