Nice job!  I especially like how you set up to hold a fin box.  Much lighter I'm sure than the 2x4 I routered and glassed in between the last two bulkheads.

Just in: a really terrific Kaholo building video:

http://vimeo.com/17014013 

<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/17014013" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/17014013">building very quickly</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user919137">tanner</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

Nice work, i'm getting ready to build one. Did you use the carry handle configuration as supplied? I'm thinking of doing a center deck recessed handle like you see on some glass boards so you can carry under you arm. Any ideas?

To put in a recessed handle you're going to have to block it in and add a bunch of weight.  Doable but the weight is a big trade off.  Recessed handles are pretty deep to avoid strain on just the fingertips.  So it will require more backing thickness than was needed in the case or the elegent fin box holder the original poster did above or I did with my overbuilt 2x4 solution.

John, Very nice video, I didn’t know using a helper was allowed.

J, I gave the center deck handle some thought deciding not to go that route thinking at 30 pounds my finger weren’t going to last long so without it I wouldn’t be tempted to use it and forced to go with a shoulder strap harness for carrying any distance.

David

David

The two circular pieces with the block between frame 7 and the transom are not in my building directions.

Might I please ask their function?

I really appreciate the pictures you took.  Very helpful.

 Thanks

Still to short

The circular pieces and box are for a single removable fin I am adding to the board, smart or not, I don't know, time will tell. Looking at surfboards today it seems when it comes to fins, more is better so I added a third one. lol's

I think the amount of drag added will be undetectable but the tracking differance will be detectable so I added it. Being removable I will be able to report opinions both ways.

David

1-1-11 was a rainy day and 2nd coat of Varnish was put on the Kaholo the night before. I was board so play with tools and make a dovetail connection for the blade to handle on another paddle.

Could use some help on how to post build pictures on this forum 

Thanks for taking the time to share your photos

i see that your frames are of the old style which I will call the vee frame versus the newer style box frame.  The vee frame style has four deck stringers with none of the stringers being on the centerline. The vee frames are spaced about 24 inches apart.  I built a vee frame Kaholo a couple of years ago.

The newer structural design had what I call box frames spaced 12 inches apart and has  five stringers, one being on the centerline.

How did you happen to build to the older  Vee design?  Did you have an old kit or plans?

i am curios which design has proved to be stronger or lighter.  Any comments out there?

i built a centerline hand hold into my board....involved but lots of fun..I carved the hand hold of soft pine with sloping sides so that my fingers curve inward to not slip out of the grip.  I then waxed the plug with melted canning parifin and glassed it with epoxy and glass...with a flang on it to attach it to the underside of the deck.  How did I remove the plug from the glassed plug?  Prior to glassing I cut the plug into small pieces and glued it together with melted parifin.   When the epoxy cured I put the plug with epoxied glass into the oven, the wax melted and I  pulled out the cut up pieces of the plug.  The hand grip is deep and with its inward sloping side very comfortable.  It's weight is neglegable. 

You  may notice that factory boards do not have a reverse angle on their recessed hand grips because it is difficult for them to mold.  Consequently, factory centerline hand grips are uncomfortable and your fingers tend to slip out of them.