veneering the coaming lip question

I have been enjoying the journey of my build so much that I am suspect that my willingness to go to the extreme end and make life much harder that it has to be on this project is a subconsious unwillingness come to a finish and then try to figure out what to do next.

The latest thought is that given the beauty of the strip design and the strips on the coaming risers that looking at the plain okume ply on the lip of the coaming is not going to work for me.

So you veneering guys a little help please--what glue do I use ?Has anyone used epoxy as an adhesive ? Any pointers in the veneer process would be appreciated as well.

FYI-the coaming riser and lip are epoxied in place-I do not think that clamping should be an issue.......CZ

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RE: veneering the coaming lip question

I used iron-on veneer stripping with the waxy adhesive stuff on it, on the inside edge of the coaming as well as under the lip on the out side. Went pretty easy with some help with some push pins, household iron and the use of a soldering iron to get up under the lip. Use as much heat as possible but don't burn the wood.

Want to push the envelope, run a band of plexiglas around the outside edge of the coaming- see 2010 Oakume pictures 'Lew Lott with the fabric'. That's tricky.



RE: veneering the coaming lip question


If you don't have the iron on stuff white carpenter's glue works well. Excess wipes off with a damp cloth, reasonable tack time. I've done a little veneering with it. Don't be afraid to push the extreme.

George K

My old WR18

RE: veneering the coaming lip question

I felt the same way with my hybrid wood duck: didn't like the plywood look.

 I ordered really nice mahogany sheet wood from Bluejacket Shipmodels.  The strips come in 24" lengths and various widths.  I used Titebond 3 and serious clamping, but you could also use a slow cure CA.

Because of the shape of the coaming/spacers, it wasn't an easy job, but when done and with several coats of varnish on the mahogany, it was well worth the effort and cost.


RE: veneering the coaming lip question

I use Titebond II (yellow glue) that is available at Home Depot.  I've used that stuff to veneer quite a few different furniture projects as well as several sets of speakers and a Mill Creek 16.5.  Use a sponge brush or foam roller to apply it to the veneer.  Let it dry for about 20 minutes until it is not runny and almost dry... just a little tacky.  Use a hot iron with a cloth and iron on the veneer.  But if George K used regular white glue to do that kayak in the picture...who could ever argue with that.

RE: veneering the coaming lip question

Thanks for all the replys guys----George I recall seeing your veneer pictures before--thanks for sharing them again---wow great look.

Lew I plan to check out your site this evening it sounds inspiring.

Rich thanks- and finally Jeff I need a little clarification. I used Titebond 11 on the edge glue on my strips. Does the section in your remarks that refer to sponges, tack, and iron on refer to a differant adhesive ?

I did a little doodeling on paper last night and I am leaning towards a burl veneer-[body] which is bare wood veneer with no backing. I plan to go with an arrow head and short shaft pointing toward the bow at the front center of the coaming and an arrow shaft with fletching pointing the same direction at the center rear of the coaming. Shaft-peruvian walnut, arrow head-dyed green burl knife handle material and fletching possibly some alternating colored woods. If I have a joint at the right and left center of the coaming I will probably come up with an inlay design for that as a variety of woods cut to match the thickness of the veneer and some stabelized and dyed burl [polymear injected wood] all adheered to 4mm okume ply in repeated wet conditions--all sealed with glass and problems ??..........CZ

RE: veneering the coaming lip question


Thanks. By the way, I get all my veneers from B&B Rare Woods. They have a great selection of woods and Dave is a pleasure to work with.

George K

RE: veneering the coaming lip question

CZ, I meant to say use a foam roller or a foam brush to apply the Titebond 2 to the back of the veneer.  I used some paper backed veneer from that I had left from a previous project.  I think the masters here on this forum have used paperless veneer.  It is definitely thinner, but easier to tear or split.

RE: veneering the coaming lip question

Thank-you for the clarifications Jeff.

The designs are now drawn to scale. I did rip my materials down to the thickness of my barewood veneer which is a great looking maple burl. 

I ran down to our local Wood Craft Store waving my 10% off every thing in the store coupon and bought the veneer, a veneer saw, and on recomendation of the store owner purchaed URAC RESIN ADHESIVE 185 by Nelson. One of the reasons that I bought into this product is that I was concerned with adhesion to the polymear injected stableized wood knife handle blanks that I planned to use in the arrowhead inlays. This product is good for wood and phenolic and melamine laminates. The interesting thing with this product is that one of the 2 part ingrediants looks like wood flour but is described as a hardener which consist of inorganic curing agents and lineous filler in powder form--2 hour work time at 75 degree---What did I just say--were is Laszlo to explain what I just wrote when you need him.....CZ

RE: veneering the coaming lip question

I'm glad to have found this thread because I'm almost at the part of the build on my Wood Duck 12 where I need to fasten the coaming to the deck. I built it in-place with plastic covering the deck so that once dry I could remove it for easier sanding and access to the underside of the lip for filleting. 

I just can't bring myself to let the expsoed ply layers of the spacer show on the finished boat either. A quick question for you who have done this before, what wood veneer would you say looks the best with the Sapele deck that I have on mine. I'm not sure whether to try and find a wood that looks good/ matches with it or with the Okume that the "flat" portion of the coaming is made of. 

I read that someone used Mahogany which is always so beautiful it's just that I'm not sure that I want to introduce a very different looking wood at this point. Do you know what wood might match the best? Also, and I know that a few places to source this wood have already been mentioned before but are there any other that you might recommend? I'm on the west coast, near San Francisco, and if there is somewhere within driving distance I could go and take a look I would. Not necessary, but thougth I'd ask anyway!

Thanks all, 


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