Shoemaker

Check the link below for a picture of the brass fitting I used on my Skerry.  I added a V shaped block inside to reinforce the bow where the bolt passed thru.  I also used bedding compound under the fitting.

Good Luck

https://photos.app.goo.gl/wVPiNdZ06u4I59MV2   

Here is a picture of the fitting on my Sassafras 16.  

https://photos.app.goo.gl/bRziC5lgpkLuCYCu1   

   Thanks very much!  Very helpful!

Duckworks sells a nice bronze one.  Not the best picture of it but you can see it.

   Thanks, Mark.  Just what I was looking for.  Forgot to check out Duckworks.  Also thanks for the trailer info under another post.   Not sure if dealers around here (New Hampshire) carry Continental, but I’ll check.  I’m also looking at Karavan and Loadrite.  So far, dealers have seemed strangely tentative over whether their smallest trailers can accommodate a 10’ boat.

   A little pricey and a lot of extra work, but this is what I put on my Skerry.  Outboard for painter and anchor rode and inboard for forestay and jib tack:

Hooper

   I used the exact same double bow eye as pictured by Hooper (above) on my NE dory.  I really like the fact that my painter stays permanently tied on through one eye, yet I can still attach the trailer winch hook without any risk of pinching the painter, or anchor rode whenever needed.  On the inside I just flattened out the filet a bit with the grinder and used a big washer under the nut, plenty strong.  Even so, and even though I don't have a forestay, if I did it again I'd put some type of loop or attachment or second eye on the inside too (as Hooper did), just to add another tie-off point for spare gear or whatever.  Could be as simple as a loop formed from a bent piece of stainless or brass flat stock placed under the nut.  Very nice guy at Bay of Maine boats will hook you up with a bow eye. http://www.bayofmaineboats.com/boweye.htm 

   Thanks Hooper and Bubblehead.  Very nice work.  Bubblehead answered one of my unspoken questions by describing the washer against fillet setup on the inside.  You do think it’s strong enough?  Did you saw off the bolt after the nut?  Thanks also for the reference to bayofmaineboats.

   I asked John Harris the same question before I even ordered my kit.  He said the filet alone is plenty strong enough.  I just used the “faux stem” to help hide the bolt and to provide a place to mount the inboard eye.

Hooper

   Shoemaker,

To my memory the brass bow eye came with stainless threaded rod and a stainless nut.  The rod can be unscrewed from the eye. 

So, a few seconds after I hit "post" I remembered that I went out an bought a brass pan head slotted machine screw that fit the bow eye (because I worked hard to keep everything traditional = brass on my boat, and because at this diameter the brass bolt would surely be stong enough in this application).  So, I test-fit the thing for length and cut it just short enough to make sure it would get almost full engagement into the eye and still tighten down.  In short, I have a brass fender washer under a brass pan head showing on the inside of the bow - with screw slot aligned, of course.

   Thanks, Hooper, for John’s assurance about the fillet.  Mine looks pretty robust, and I’d rather not add reinforcement material there if I can get away with just the fillet.  Bubblehead, thanks for the idea about keeping the brass look on the inside.  Never would have thought of that!

Hey Hooper,

Thanks for posting that!  I want to do the double-double inside/outside version.

1)  Can you tell me what those double bow eyes cost?  I couldn't find any pricing on the website/brochure.

2)  So you bought 2 and connected them with a mating threaded stud?  The "throat" for the threaded part seems pretty long.  Did they mate up through your stem?  I want to use them with a pram, so my bow transom isn't that thick.  Maybe I'll try to connect them through the bow knee.  Could you describe your process?

Thanks,

Chris

  Chris,

It's been awhile, but it seems like the cost was 30+ dollers each.  Bay of Maine did not provide bolts, etc as they said every application is different and I'm sure that's true.  I think I got SB bolts, nuts and washers from Jamestown Distributors.  If I find out, in a few days, that I'm far off on the cost I'll let you know.  Part of my rigging problem was that I was using the manual for the passagemaker as that is what the gunter-sloop was originally intended for.  Everything connected to the bow knee and my Skerry did not have one.  Having a bow knee should greatly simplify things for you. 

My outboard and inboard eyes do not connect to each other, but they are both bolted into the "faux stem."  That was a lot of work, but for me that was part of the fun and it did turn out to be very usefull.  Some more pics:

I didn't think the boat would seem right with a stem but no stern post so I also made a "faux stern post."  It does nothing.

Hooper

Thank you SO much Hooper.  That's the exact info I was looking for.  Also, the pics are great.

I'm putting my order in!