Re: Millcreek 16.5

Posted by Kurt Maurer on May 29, 2004

Yup, Mike has ya covered. In the MC13, it's just the opposite: the bottom panel becomes about three inches too long on you. The wise thing to do in the case of the '13 is to split the difference as Mike suggests, as it saves you a lot of material removal. It does, in fact, work out great. Splitting the diff is done by wiring the ends of the bilge panels together, using a spreader stick to open 'em up, then positioning them over the bottom panel to best advantage using your ever-reliable eyeball to center up the works. What Mike suggests, to wit: "pinching the hull", worked okay for him, and so it ought to work okay for you, too. The net result is a knife-edge entry, or knife edged departure, depending on which end you started with. No prob with that.

These boats are plenty forgiving enough for you to take the path of least resistance straight to the water... within reason of course. An obviously untrue (twisted or banana'd) hull would be something to really worry about, for instance. As long as everything looks true (read: straight) you're fine.

Cheers, Kurt

In Response to: Re: Millcreek 16.5 by Mike Carlson on May 29, 2004

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