epoxy coating a wherry

First time builder here...

I have applied two coats of epoxy to the hull. The first coat I applied with a 4" roller and brush. The epoxy ran during the cure. So, I sanded the runs out with 120 and a good finish sand with 220. Wiped down with denatured alcohol. Hull looked pretty good. I applied the second coat with a brush and pulled it as thin as I could with a plastic spreader. I thought I had applied too thick a coat before, so if I could really spread it thin, it would cure flat. Nope, ran again, but not as much. Now it is back to sandpaper.

Question; is this running problem just part and parcel of applying expxy to a non flat surface ?? I have a friend that builds with plywood, he said that he always pre-coats prior to assembly. I suppose that we could have pre coated the planks after putting them together and before drilling for the wire up, but with the 5 day schedule we were on in the building class, no way we would have gotten done in time.

So, am I doing something wrong, or is the simple way to avoid this extra work is just to pre coat ??

Thanks

Chuck  

 

 


2 replies:

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RE: epoxy coating a wherry

If you have runs in your epoxy, you're putting on too much.  Exactly how much to put on - enough to do some good, but not enough to run - is not easy to determine when you're working.  Lots of experience helps.  I've been doing it for many years and am getting better at it.  What really helps me is to go back and look for runs an hour after applying, especially on vertical surfaces.  Then another check in another hour.  If I haven't caught all the runs before the epoxy turns green (means it's still a little soft, not rock hard), I use a scraper to attack the runs.  I use slow hardener at shop temps in the high 60s, the epoxy is green in 12-14 hours.

Good luck on the rest of your build.

RE: epoxy coating a wherry

When I started using an almost dry roller rather than a brush, I got fewer runs.  But in tight spots, or in other cases, a roller can't be used, and I still need to use a brush. A simple cabinet scraper does work very well for planing off the offenders.

One thing I've heard but haven't yet tried is warming up the resin and hardener before mixing, to reduce the viscosity of the mixture.  That's supposed to make it easier to apply thinner coats.  The warmer it is, though, the less time you have to work it before it starts to turn to gel.

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