"Z" bends are nice and having the "Z" bend pliers is the only way to go if you have to use the "Z" bend. I would recomend dumping the "Z" bend altogether. Use a ball link. They are slop free and will give you years of consistent use.

 Towwerhobbies will offer the ball links in many sizes..

G$

Let me weigh in on this one.  Since we sail on salt water we are continually fighting corrosion.

The best combination we have come up with is to use 1/16th" stainless steel welding rod (welding supply store) for the rudder steering rod.  Z bend on one end and something called an EZ connector (RC part made by Dubro or Great Planes) on the other.  This makes it so it is easy to adjust the rudder centerspoint.  Remember to file a flat on the rudder post for the steering arm on the rudder post.

Be sure to replace the stop screw in the EZ Connector with a stainless screw. Also the stop screw on the steering arm, because they will seize up from corrosion (guess how we know?).

Dave,

Excellent tip and thanks for weighing in!  We beginner Indy builders need more tips like these because the salt water factor is priority one for those of us sailing in those conditions.  I've already replaced or plan to replace any nuts or screws with stainless parts, but I hadn't considered a stainless rod for the rudder, or even for the set screw on the tiller (for the flat spot on the rudder post).  I also plan to secure the pilot house lid with a few SS screws to keep it from coming off during sailing.  Also, enveloping the RX, batteries (and even servos very carefully) in ziplocs, or something similar will help in the salt water corrosion effort.  I just ordered my radio equipment because I finished the hull and deck and gave her the bathtub test.  She floats with no leaks!  Thanks Dave!  Best, Bob H.

As an avid R/C plane builder I recommend the Z bender plyers also, it has been one of my best investments. Also usinf the ez connectors is a great way to make things easy for hookup and adjustment. If you don't want to buy plyers you can by push rods that have one end threaded and get theaded snap links they are cheap and gives you more adjustment, they are also nylon so there is no corrosion problems. You would still want to use a ez connector on the other end of the push rod.