I think you'd be much better off with the Chesapeake 17.  It's the same boat as the 16, really, except that it's a bit bigger to accommodate the larger paddler. 

Don't be misled by the maximum payload figure. Think of you and your payload as a lever trying to tip the boat over.  Weight down near the fulcrum, i.e., the water line, is not going to have much impact on the tipping leverage being applied to the hull, but weight up high will have quite an effect.  Put another way, your own weight from the hips on down and the weight of your cargo (capmping gear, food, water, etc.) won't do much to impair the boat's stability; indeed, if anything, weight down low will be of some help.  It's the weight of your torso, arms and head which will decrease the boat's stability. The more you weigh, the more powerful the lever trying to tip the boat will be and the less stable the boat will be with you in it. So pay attention to what the designer recommends about paddler weight, as that's why there's a difference between maximum paddler weight and maximum payload.

Keep in mind too that the maximum shoe size is an approximation, as that depends in part on how you're comfortable positioning your feet, and also on what you wear while paddling. It's wiser to err on the generous side, rather that put up with crampted feet.

I'd advise looking again at the Ches. 17.  It really is the same boat as the 16, with the same lines, the same grace, the same handling, etc., just re-sized for a larger paddler.

Last but not least, I recommend paddling the boats first. CLC holds a number of events in Annapolis and arounf the country at which you can test their boats, or you might find somebody through the CLC builder's club who lives near you and would let you test theirs. Building one of these boats is a significant endeavor, and you don't want to waste your time and money building the wrong boat. 

I understand about the center of gravity etc, however, I called CLC and spoke witha representitive who said it should not make that big of a diffrence?  I live in Chicago and cannot attend any functions and cannot try any out?  I feel like I am taking a big chance and do not want to spend all that time and money to find out I do not enjoy the kayak.  I am sure all the science and stats have been considered, but I only see a half inch diffrence in width and more in length?  If its the same basic boat, where is the diffrence that will make it less stable?  Is it in the half inch width x 1 1/2 inch length?  Is there anything I can do to modify the 16 to make it for a bigger paddler?  Very confused.

The Chessie 17 is 16" longer than the Chessie 16.  the slightly wider beam of the C-17 works to increase stability along the entire length of the hull, so that little 1/2" adds up to a large increase in stability.  The C-17's hull will float you slightly higher out of the water, your weight will sink you deeper in the C-16.  Optimally, a designer might say you would be better off in the right-sized yak.  Practically, you can learn to live with the smaller one, especially if you never try a C-17 so don't know what you're missing.

Try to find a kayak dealer in your area that has a line of boats, of the same hull design, to fit different weight paddlers.  Paddle one that is supposed to be too small for you, then try one that is right-sized.  If the size difference is comparable to the difference between the C-16 and the C-17, you should experience a similar difference in stability and toe room.

Don't worry about being confused.  The more time you spend asking questions and trying different yaks, the better you will be able to make the tough decision.  Good luck!

Not sure why you are so hung up on the Ches 16.  Furthering the discussion on stability:  All else being equal, stability is proportional to the length of the waterline and to the square of the beam.  That translates roughly to a 13% difference between the Ches 16 & Ches 17.  You should probably consider the Ches 17LT which is a cut down version of the 17.  You would seem to fit that one well.

I also would emphasize trying some of these out.  Can you make it to Madison, WI weekend after next for the CLC demo there?  As stated above, you will put just as much effort into building the wrong boat as you will building the right one.  Take your time and do your research.  Look on the owner's club list on this web site and see if you can find anyone local who has one or more of these boats.  People love to show them off and there is no substitue for seeing and paddling one yourself.

Good luck. Paul G.

I'm in the process of building the C16, and although any build process requires a little bit of head scratching, the build process is not overly complicated for a beginner.  A mild understanding of how wood behaves in different situations is helpful, but by no means necessary.  you'll pick up quite a bit during the process and by asking questions on here.  

As far as your questions about design are concerned... I echo the previous comments on trying a boat first.  I had the opportunity to paddle the C16 this past weekend after 2 months of building, hoping that the design would work for me.  Now I know that it will.  Needless to say, i was nervous that I was building something that wouldn't fit my body or paddling style.  If I had it to do over again though, I'd build the 16LT to allow for a lower aft deck.  

As far as handling is concerned, the Chesapeake designs are very forgiving for beginner paddlers.  You'll learn how to steer using a combination of body lean and paddle strokes, both of which will come with time.  My own experience was limited to plastic sea kayaks previously... so I was in the same shoes as you.  That being said, build a boat that fits you best.  I'm 5'11", 145lbs, and the 16 is a good fit for me... it would be a little on the small  side for you.  

Go paddle one before you make a decision.  Good luck!

~Chris 

Just so you know there is a demo day in Wisconsin this coming Sunday 8-30. You might consider going there to check some of those boats out...at least thats what I'm planning on doing.