Builders' Forum |
|
| ↓ Scroll to Last Comment ↓ | Forum Guidelines | Builders' Forum |  RSS
|
Norwegian push pull tiller mod (Peapod in this case)
I bought single lug Peapod, but this season I would like to make a push pull tiller (like the Yawl version comes with) as an option. I was well on the way of making a reasonable facimile of the OEM push-pull, but then I reaized that the right angle arm epoxied into the rudder cassette makes for an ungainly contraption whenever you want to stow the rudder, whether you are talking in the cockpit or the off season.
So I am soliciting ideas of others who may have dealt with this. I am considering 3 options.
Option 1: Much like OEM push pull, but make the tenon of mortise and tenon joint longer, so I can stick a magogany wege pin in it on outside end to snug it up. The 1/2" / 12mm arm may not be solid enough alone, and I might have to have something like a 3/4" plydood collar epoxied on the arm side for more surface area to mate with the cassette, and for that matter a removable collar on outside part of tenon before the wedge as well for more clamping force.
Option 2: cut more of a peg on top of cassette and have the arm (I don't know what you call that part of the push pull rudder, is it part of the tiller? part of the rudder?) more of a collar that slips over it. maybe a small brass pin in the peg so the arm does not walk off the top perhaps.
Option 3: just butt up the arm thing to the cassette, with a brass door hinge on the bottom, so when the rudder is stowed, arm drops down along side cassette. when in the "in use" position either another hinge that has a removable pin, or a cabinet latch to keep it locked in right angle to rudder cassette. Not sure if they make brass cabinet latches. I'm sure somebody does.
Pictures of examples of the first two (although not CLC peapods) are easily seachable of "norwegian push pull tiller" if I am not clear. Certainly easier than me figuring a way to host pictures so you can see them here.
So, thoughts anyone on what would be best?
13 replies:
RE: Norwegian push pull tiller mod (Peapod in this case)
Another thing. I bought a piece of rattan about 1 1/4 inch diameter x 6 or 8 feet long (cut to whatever liength is correct for you) from someplace in CA to use as the long steering stick. I just looked it up: https://www.franksupply.com/bamboo/rattan-poles.html
You can get various diameters, it takes varnish just fine. The stuff is perfect as a replacement for whatever 1x1" fir or whatever CLC supplies in the kit. Maybe most people don't break the steering stick, but step on it wrong and it certainly will break. The rattan is virtually unbreakable, and it is stiff but flexible. It is a little bit soft internally, so consider a drill/fill/drill method when you put a hole in it. They use this stuff for a thing called a push stick for skateboards. You can check out some of the pictures of a rattan pole at this Amazon link - these shown are even beefier than ever needed for a steering stick. https://www.amazon.com/WEST-SSUP-Rattan-Street-Original/dp/B00XJD3DS6/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
RE: Norwegian push pull tiller mod (Peapod in this case)
thanks, that's helpful. here is a link to a small boat article that has an example of a tiller arm like what I described as "option 2"
https://smallboatsmonthly.com/article/norwegian-tiller-keeper/
yesterfay I was leaning to option 1, today I wonder if option 2 would be stronger and perhaps easier to install and break down. I might have to make mock ups of both before I commit to either on my half built rudder cassette....
RE: Norwegian push pull tiller mod (Peapod in this case)
More pics here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/feetwetphotos/41811606060/in/album-72157667267363123/
Was worried about losing the wingnuts so I've changed to a single bolt. Sorry, no pics of the mods. This should give you a start if you want to go this direction.
RE: Norwegian push pull tiller mod (Peapod in this case)
Last season I got frustrated with the lashed-on push/pull tiller on my Waterlust, found an inexpensive solution in a little thing available from Duckworks:
[img]https://forum.fyneboatkits.co.uk/img/members/25548/D2088C4D-1700-4665-95BD-F06B936B5942.jpg[/img]
(Apologies if pic doesn't show; it's hosted on another CLC-affiliated forum, I've had poor luck getting images to show here before....)
From Ronstan, labeled as a 'universal tiller extension joint' it works really well!
https://duckworks.com/ronstan-urethane-universal-tiller-extension-joint/
RE: Norwegian push pull tiller mod (Peapod in this case)
To make a simple jpg file show, just copy its URL, insert an image box into your message (button next to "?" button in the toolbar) and paste the image URL into the image box.
Laszlo
RE: Norwegian push pull tiller mod (Peapod in this case)
Duckworks also sells this Racelite swivel that I used on my skerry tiller. Works great, but I will say always drop an extra cotter ring and pin or two in your ditty bag for when you drop one in the water.
RE: Norwegian push pull tiller mod (Peapod in this case)
» Submitted by Bubblehead - Mon, 3/6/23 » 8:58 AM
I'm not sure if the pictures will show up and not going to spend all the time with a cloud app. If you want me to text you a copy, send me a quick text to 210-846-8096.
Here is what I did on my NE Dory, and like it very much. I recognized that fixed, 90 degree tiller arm would be a PITA for storage & etc.. During initial construction a added a couple of slabs of spare plywood to each side of the rudder head, running down about 4" from the top of the rudder. Nicely shaped and faired in and rounded edges. Total width of the rudder head is probably 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 inches. Then I bored a 1" (1 1/4", can't remember) hole directly thorough the head. Then I inserted a matching diameter dowell through the head, of appropriate length to form the tiller arm, including the extra length to have about 2" sticking out from the head when insterted. Drilled a 1/4" hole and put a rope throuth the inner (long lide of the arm) - right at the place where it guages the depth at witch I wanted the arm inserted into the head. On the other side of the head I indented a circular ring in the arm with a rasp (maybe uneccessary) to receive the first turn of the clove hitch that ties on that side of the rudder head. I simply stick this assembly through the rudder head and lash it in place when rigging the rudder. Has worked great for 8 years now. On the steering stick end of the tiller arm I again just drilled a hole and put in a short piece of line. Also a home through the steering stick. When rigging I just put the rope through the hole in the steering stick and tie a knot, forming a universal joint. This could be done with a bolt if you desire. There is relatively little slop. The fact that the tiller arm can rotate in the rudder head is also a nice feature, limiting stredd on the up/down moting of the steering stick. Again, a picture will be worth 1000 words.