You could try changing the wiring order and attach the planks to the transom first to guarantee that the notch lines up with the lip, then tighten up the plank-to-plank stitching. Or. you could get rid of the notch with a rasp as long as any gap is under the limit for filling with epoxy/woodflour putty. Remember, the strength of the joint comes from the fiberglass tape and epoxy putty fillet, not from perfect mating surfaces held together with carpenter's glue.

I know that this is bound to be frustrating, but it really is a case of taking it apart and trying again until it's good enough for your standards. From a mechanical strength point of view, the fit does not have to be perfect, only fair and symmetrical. From an esthetic point of view, paint and fairing compound will cover a multitude of sins and you can still end up with a prize-winning yacht finish, so don't get discouraged. You will have a fine boat, no matter what.

Good luck,

Laszlo

Hello, try this temporary clamping method to close the gaps in the planks when trying to fit the transom.

Also, tap the wire inside the hull flat before you tighten the wire outside of the hull. That small slack in the wire can leave you with gaps in the planking after you tighten the wires. I also use some 17 gauge steel wire from a previous build. Careful not to rip the wood.

Goog Luck, Capt Mike   

   Thanks, Laszlo! I think I am going to go with rasping down the notches. With respect to your answer, what do you think is the max size of the gap for  "the limit for filling with epoxy/woodflour putty."

By the way with respect to your other post, about speaker at Annapolis Maritime Museum:  Until 5 minutes ago it was snowing by me! (1 hour driving west of Annapolis). So far I've been building/epoxying the boat indoors, though in a relatively cold room, so supplemented with space heater overnight.

By any chance are you a volunteer at AMM, I just signed up to volunteer.

Nancy,

Before you go rasping the notch, you might want to try Capt Mike's innovative and effective clamping method.

I try to keep gaps less than 1/8 inch (3mm for the countries that haven't landed men on the moon). Since CLC says 1/4 (3mm) for this boat and it's their design, I defer to them.

And I think that you may be confusing someone else's post with one of mine. I've never heard of the AMM, though now I will look them up.

Laszlo

Hello, the attached clamping method will help to close the gaps between the transom and the planks. 

The clamp will slide a little due to the clamping angle, but if you have the wire ties in place a quick twist is possible.

Good luck, 

Capt Mike