I guess by "terminal points" you mean the bow and stern? I'm less sure what you mean by "handle" :) You should smooth the glass down so that it conforms closely to the hull. It is possible to do this quite nicely. You can pat the glass down as if you were patting a small furry mammal. Imagine the kayak purring contentedly as you do this. Let the weave spread out and adjust, the fabric will take the shape of the boat. Leave an inch or two overhang all around. The stern of the Chesapeake, because of the squared-off skegish shape is the only troublesome bit. I just let the cloth run off the end, you can't get it to conform there. Then after it had cured, I cut it off, smoothed it and put another small patch there to wrap around the resulting seam on the stern.

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Ogata

Yes, when I say "terminal points" I mean the bow and the stern. I seems like you'd have a bit of a problem on the on bow with the glass bunching up. Is this not so?

I've been looking at old postings to try to find a solution to the same problem that Matt had back in '09.  I plan to fully glass the inside of the hull of my SW17, not just tape over the fillets, and I am trying to visualize how to get the glass into the "points" (the narrow angles in the bow and stern, which are pretty long in the SW) without the glass bunching up.  Should I cut a v-wedge out of the glass, and overlap the two edges at the angle?  Should I use glass tape in the angle first, then cut the full glass to stop where the tape begins?  Any other options?

I'm sure there are many right ways to do this, but I wondered if someone had experience and a good solution that worked well for them.

Thanks!

   I just did this (I'm now waiting for good weather outside so I can start sanding in preparation for the varnish stage).

On the stern, I had the fiberglass overhang the stern by about an inch and a half, and I made two cuts, each about half an inch apart, from the end of the fibreglass back to one side of the deck.  This left a half inch wide (by the 1.5" overhang) tab coming from the top of the deck, and two larger flaps on either side.  I epoxied the tab straight down the vertical edge of the stern first, and then wrapped each flap over that.  This provided for a triple layer of glass at the top of the stern there, and it looks pretty good.

I did something similar at the bow, although instead of straight cuts, I cut out "V" shapes from either side (still leaving the half inch wide tab that folded over the very point of the bow).

Not the lightest weight way of doing it, but I figure if I bang into anything, triple ply on the points of the boat will make sure nothing awful happens.