WD12 Hatch Problem

At the beginning of my WD12 build, the rear hatch was level with the deck.  Now that I'm getting close to the end of this build, I've found that the hatch is now sticking up on one side!  Anyone have a way to fix this?

Deck and hull are already glassed.  I've also placed a stiffener on the back of the hatch to keep it flat.  It's the deck that is now not flat.


7 replies:

« Previous Post       List of Posts       Next Post »

RE: WD12 Hatch Problem

 Hi DMK...

are all the bits below the hatch hole already in place (hatch space and sill)?  how are you going to hold the hatch down tight?  will you be using toggles or some other system?

most minor misalignments will disapear when the hatch is actually secured in place unless you have glued something up manifestly out-of-alignment.

so tell us more re the questions above and we may be able to offer some more specific suggestions.

h  

RE: WD12 Hatch Problem

And post a picture of the back of the hatch cover.

Laszlo

 

RE: WD12 Hatch Problem

   Here are the extra pics.  I cut a second hatch cover from some scrap plywood and it fits the space much better - unfortunately, it's not not the same wood as the deck.  I'm thinking what I need to do is remove the hooks and back brace, then cut a series of relief kurfs into the back.  That should give it enough relief so I can reform it to the hull.  What do you think?

Suggestions on how to remove the hooks and back brace?

 

Image preview

Image preview

RE: WD12 Hatch Problem

Your pictures didn't make it, but assuming that it looks sort of like this:

you don't have to necessarily remove the hooks or brace. I think that if you cut near the hooks you can get the flexibility you need and it should be possible to cut through the brace, adjust the position and then sister the brace. That's where you put pieces of wood alongside the one that was weakened to take the load and provide stiffness. It has a long history in wooden boatbuilding so it'd be very authentic.

Otherwise, I'd cut the pieces off as close to the joints as possible and then clean off the stumps with a rasp and belt sander until I got to flat wood.

The big difficulty will be matching the shape of the deck if it isn't regular. It might work best with a multi-stage process.

  1. Clamp a piece of plywood onto the back deck over the hatch and build a frame on top of it to hold it very stiff while maintaing the shape. When you flip it over, it's theoretically a negative copy of your back deck. It should fit your deck perfectly when the clamps are released. You may have to cut reliefs.
  2. Then clamp the hatch cover to the negative copy. You can cut reliefs, adjust the clamping and glue the stiffener(s) to hold it in place.

From your first picture it looks as if you may need at least one lateral stiffener as well as the longitudinal one.

The main thing to watch for is the orientation so that the grain remains matched to the deck.

Laszlo

RE: WD12 Hatch Problem

  Laszlo - THANKS for the great suggestions.  If I understand, you're suggesting I put 1-2 notches in the brace instead of removing it entirely - correct? 

RE: WD12 Hatch Problem

Solution!

I was able to take Laszlo's great suggestion and sove my problem!  I cut to kerfs in the brace, then used washers to spread them out.  By adjusting the washers I was able to get the exact curvature that I needed to make the hatch flush.  I plan to trim these washers and cover them with epoxy.

Image preview

RE: WD12 Hatch Problem

Congratulations on getting that fixed, very happy to have been of help.

Laszlo 

« Previous Post     List of Posts     Next Post »


Please login or register to post a reply.