Tom,

I've built boats on the same order of complexity as that using no power tools, except for a random orbital sander. A Japanese razor saw does an excellent and easy job cutting 6 and 9 mm okoume plywood. It also works well on solid wood, but, depending on the thickness of the wood and your arms, you may feel the effort on that.

A handheld power jig saw (I have a Bosch) with a fine blade will work well if you cut carefully. Even that level of power makes accidents easy with the relatively soft okoume. A skil saw is way overkill.

Having used both hand and power, I much prefer hand for cutting wood for CLC-style S&G boats. It takes a bit longer, but not much. It's less messy, makes a finer cut with no splintering and is quiet enough to do at all hours without bothering the neighbors or family. The reduced time spent cleaning up the shop and the cut edges makes up for a lot of the extra time spent actually cutting, while the ability to cut whenever there's a bit of time available helps if one has to squeeze shop time out of family and work. The comfort of reduced PPE when the saw is quiet and not blowing sawdust everywhere makes up for the effort of powering the saw and that effort makes me healthier instead of enriching the electric company.

Have fun,

Laszlo

I'm with Laszlo on this question Tom.

I've completed just one CLC kit (Waterlust) but used almost no power tools along the way save for a cordless drill, Foredom brand rotary system (like a Dremel but more robust), RO and detail-type sander, vacuum cleaner hooked to both. Hand tools employed were pull-saw, "Shinto" type rasp (no handle), a few chisels.

The Foredom could have been avoided had I had a better grasp of filleting techniques.

I'm now assembling their ama add-on for this design, building from plans this time. Admitting I used my 14" bandsaw to rough out its various hull panels I could have opted for that pull saw just as effectively if for a bit more effort in the 'getting out' portion.

Add a small block plane or two and blade sharpening stuff, a box cutter / utility knife'd be about it. Oh and clamps, and two pair of pliers: one needle-nose for dealing w/ stitches in places fingers can't easily reach.

(Curiosity's got me wondering how it'll be getting that NED back to your USA home when the opportunity presents itself....)

I appreciate the quick responses and helpful comments/insights.  I would leave the boat here and use it in the Spring. I am on the island of Ærø where it seems like everyone has a Danish Jolle in the yard.  

Seems a worthy goal having a reliable, trustworthy boat come easily to hand when you live on an island....

I agree with Laszlo and spclark . . . but I'm not even sure I'd use a random orbital sander on the next boat. Sanding is never much fun, but it is quiet and contemplative when done by hand. I actually like wet-sanding! There's no dust in the air and the warm water bath is quite soothing.

Tom,

Now that my hand tool buddies have chimed in let me throw in my 2 cents worth! I love my power tools! I cut most of my long panels out with a 4" skil saw with the blade set just a millimeter or two below the depth of the panel. It's very easy to cut the curves needed for NE Dory panels that way. Just cut a bit outside the line, stack the left and right panels on each other, clamp them and use a low angle block plane to make them identical. Then you'll need either a rabbet plane or a trim router with a rabbetting bit to cut the gains in the bottom of each panel. Don't get me wrong, I love my Japanese tools and use them on every boat I build, it's just quicker to cut the parts with power tools. And I use a jig saw on the frames/bulkheads. More sawdust? You bet! Saves time? Ditto! Do wear your PPE like Laszlo pointed out. And I will definitey use my ROS for sanding. The only hand sanding I do is between coats of varnish.

Have fun no matter what direction you choose!

George K

   If I had to pick one power tool it would be a belt sander , i find alot of parts need shaping and a belt sander works alot faster and better than a plane.for less aggressive sanding tasks I hand sand using sand paper with spray adhesive on the back ,folded over and cut into squares  I rally only use the random orbital for the last sanding . Ps have you considered a kit ? No cutting involved, no problems sourcing materials 

greg27 said: "Ps have you considered a kit ?"

Perhaps TEB has? He'll have to get back to us on that.

In my case I've built two boats so far in my lifetime; one a 14' stripper scow 50 years ago from plans, the latest a CLC Waterlust canoe, my first stitch & glue.

The first took months over a winter while I worked full-time, the second took 2 years after I'd 'retired' (re-treaded for another 100,000 miles more like) and relocated 200 miles away, and also working part-time.

KIts make things simple, great satisfaction watching things form up quickly from flat parts.

Then the fussy stuff starts, which inevitably takes time. So when I chose to add the ama accessory CLC offers earlier this year I went with the plans option as much out of economy (I had materials on hand already) as because I felt it would be more engaging to work from plans. That's proving to be the outcome, giving me an appreciation for why working from plans has an appeal over building from a kit.

I only used a jigsaw to liberate the parts from the main sheet of plywood.  I used mostly a japanese pullsaw to cut the parts on the line (along with some masonite to create templates).  I then used a Shinto rasp to clean up the rest.  I'm not a hand tool purist by any means, I just thought I had more control that way.