Hi Steve, 

i recently did the same thing - petrel play forms only - and it came with a set of full size drawings/plans required to make most of the parts to complete the boat.

if you hit the 'view contents' by the ordering buttons, you will get a pop-up window and it shows the 'drawings'.

if you are an experienced strip builder, i would consider this very complete.  that said, you have a couple parts of the hull (outside of the rigging) that will not be covered compared to the purchase of a complete kit or required to complete the boat that i would highlight for you:

- the cockpit apron risers and coaming, cheek plates,  The plans for these are on the drawings and these can be cut from Okoume or you can make them with strips.  Because of the complexity of these parts driven by the sunken cockpit, I special ordered these parts on top of the forms only.

- hatches.  There is no guidance in the plans on how to do the hatches….so you are free to handle them anyway you want.   I special- ordered the hatch bits for the night heron which I like and added them to my kit.   You could do more sophisticated hatches like those included in the petrel play stitch and glue….and could order those bits to include in your project

- skeg.  The drawings do not include any plans for the for the skeg if you want one (and I would recommend one for this boat).  So you have to sort out your own approach to that.  you could order the skeg kit from CLC to get you the plans and bits you need for that.  I have my own plans for skegs that I built from

- bulkheads  these can be handled a couple different ways.  I just buy the high density foam and carve mine from that and glue them in.

Anyway, I hope this helps.

H

   H --

Tell me more about hi-density foam bulkheads. Lighter than plywood, right? Coated on both sides with fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin for strength? Very easy to cut to shape, obviously. Anything else?

the foam bulkheads i am referring to, to be a bit more specific, are made of 3 inch thick minicell foam:  https://www.clcboats.com/modules/catalog/product.php?category_qn=boat-building-supplies-epoxy-fiberglass-plywood&subcat_qn=kayak-seats-foam&code=minicell-closed-cell-foam   

one 3 inch thick X 24 tall X 24 wide typically can make a forward and aft bulkhead and they are silicone glued in.  i am not sure if the final "all in" weight with the silicone is much lighter than a well fit, minimum fillet okoume bulkhead.  i would also definitely describe the foam bulkhead, to get it to look nice, as being more work than an okoume bulkhead as the three inch thick bulkhead takes some careful 3D carving to get it to fit tight and look nice.  with three inch thick bulkheads, in most hulls, the profile of the front and rear of the bulkheads will not be the same....and that's what i mean by 3D.  an okoume bulkhead is less than a 1/4 inch thick and needs no tapering from front to back...its a simple 2D shape for all intensive purposes.

the main advantage as i understand it (and why i do it), is about how a minicell foam bulkhead protects the hull from cracking because it gives a bit.  so the theory at least, is if you were going over a rock (not too sharp as that would be another problem), the hull is going to flex in a bit.  if you have a solid bulkhead, it will crack the hull as the depression travelling down the hull hits a hard bulkhead.  with a bulkhead that can give a little, you just slide over the rock with no significant damage becuase there was no point impact caused by the bulkhead.

i can attest that it has worked for me in the past (slid over a rock that i thought was deeper than it was)....but i honestly did not do a side by side with a solid bulkhead to see if the hull would have cracked.

anyway, it's nick schade's explanation and his recomendation....and that is how i have built most of my strippers - following his general construction practices.

i hope this helps....a bit different i suspect than what you were thinking as what you described is just a composite bulkhead with a foam core....but  a solid bulkhead none-the-less.

h

   here is a picture of the front minicell bulkhead of my petrel photographed from the cockpit:

what you can't see in the picture is the front of the hull is quickly narrowing...so over three inches, the farther face of the bulkhead (more towards the bow) is signifcantly smaller than the cockpit facing side so the bulkhead needs some careful carving to get it to fit tightly with no big gaps.  you then go after it and put a fillet of silicone glue and it is perfectly water tight....and that's why i say its more work than an okoume ply bulkhead.

h