I never found an instructional video for fitting the SmartTrack rudder to my Ches 17LT so I just sat down with a cup of tea and gave it some thought. 

I hadn't fitted the deck so fitting the footbrace/toe controls was easy - I used the CLC Footbrace mounting kit after a few trial sit ins with different sized people (and myself of course) to get the best location.  

I thought long and hard about how and where I was going to take the cables out of the boat and eventually decided to take them out through the side panel rather than the deck. I made a jig to be able to drill the holes at the right angle and used thickened epoxy to hold the outer cablesfirm and seal the holes. I put a cable clip a few inches aft of the exit point to stop the cable flapping about.

I was still left with the problem of raising and lowering the rudder blade - we have a rope across the bay to mark off the swimming area during the summer months and getting the rudder hooked up on that would not be much fun and I eventually ran the lead across the deck to a cleat through some home made hardwood fairleads which are epoxied to the deck.

Securing the rudder mounting was pretty simple as the end pour in the stern gave a good firm base. 

It all works fine but it wouldn't be right to leave it at that so here's a gratuitous pic of the boat on a local beach.

 The forum logged me out before I finished writing so I'm not identified at the top of the post. If you need any more info, the previous post was me, Yambo, aka Doug.

   I put the smartrack rudder on my Chess 17 a few months ago, primarily because I found it a near-necessity while using a WindPaddle sail (no longer in production, but other cheaper-built models are available, as well as other sail styles).  Even without the sail, I've found the rudder to be a welcome addition.  Now, without really even conscious thought, my toes just twitch a bit to keep me on course.  No more double strokes, or harder stroking on one side, etc..  And when the time comes to do a short(er) radius turn (not a thing the Chess is designed for) of course the rudder helps.

Anyway, sound like you're already convinced about the rudder.  My install was on an already completed boat.  I used the fittings that come with the kit to lower my toe-brace rail.  After some test-sits on the yard, it seemed the movable toe-steer pedals would have been a bit high without doing so.

Nothing special about the installation.  I ran cable casing so that it came out through the top deck.  I elected to "catch" a bit of the gunwale stringer with the drill hole, as I didn't think just a yer of plywood would be beefy enough - and didn't feel like adding any additional block either topside (or inside, assuming I could have reached that location) to firm up the through-hull location.  That also allowed the privided cable clamp to be screwed into the guwale stringer.  I located the holes so that the cable run from the rudder yoke to the hull penetration was nearly parallel to the fore-aft centerline.  Note there there is a "trick" where applying a very small amount of heat to the plastic cable sheath will "mushroom" the end so that it cn't be pulled through the home in the hull.  My lessons learned was that you should stick a nail or something in the hole, and only use a small amount of heat.  My first attempt caused the sheath to melt too much and close down the cable hole, thus I had to but off the end of the guilde and try again.  Not a real problem as I had not yet cut the other end to length.  I used silicone RTV  to seal thru-hull and thru-blulkhead holes.  My cable sheath can slide back and forth through the bulkhead hole, but very little, and any leak there would be a very slow weep - just note that the seal there is not airtight.  If I did it over I'd drill an undersized hole and taper the end of the sheath so that some real force was required to pull it through the hole, creating basically a mechanical (v. RTV) seal.

Just too other "watch-it" points.  Some of the screws for the rudder bracket "touched" nose-to-nose inside the stern end pour, and that being epoxy instead of wood, I had a hard time convincing the screws to move past each other.  I had to ream the holes (one "up" and one "down") a bit to get the screws seated all the way down.  So maybe angle your holes just a bit from the beginning, or use shorter screws.  Also, (duh) don't forget to put the shrink-tube on the cables near the rudder yoke before assembly.  I had my rudder all tuned up prior to noting I forgot the shrink tube.  I didn't want to un-do the cable clamp djuster things, so now electrical tape is used to secure the cable end.  A minor point, but just trying to be helpful.

Good luck, you'll enjoy your rudder, I think. 

Considering that a complete kayak has been built, the question that comes to mind, why not make the rudder and pedals too?

The Smarttrack style of rudder, I first made them about 1986 and they were just a "quick & dirty" design. Then the first double I built had this and I've probably made a dozen or two of them -

https://canterburyseakayak.wordpress.com/daggerboard-rudder/

As for steering, full-foot pedals are so much better and easy to make. Note that the hinge is level with ankle. Bend your foot forward and you will see your heel come back as the toes go forward. The mounting is in the centre of the kayak and no holes are drilled in the sides. The lines are auto-adjust. This means that once the vertical angle is set for comfort, the only adjustment is fore and aft to suit the footwear or paddler and there is only one adjuster, just infront of the seat. It could not be in a better place for ease of access.

https://canterburyseakayak.wordpress.com/rudder-pedals/

The PDF has pictures and details.

   I took a look at the pictures and diagrams provided by Mac50L.  Interesting and certainly doable.  But for me alone, not what I'd choose.  I do note that the large, centerline mounted rudder pedals on the design preclude one thing I find important to my kayaking style/use in the Chess 17.  And it can be seen in the picture provided by Yambo...  When positioned for my height, I have about 8-12 inches between the forward cockpit bulkhead and the position of the footbraces (previous) or rudder pedals (now).  And I'm referring to the pedals themselves; I know the track itself runs forward closer to the bulkhead, but that isn't an issue.  To me, this is very useful space.  Even though I carry the NRS emergency kit (pump, paddle float and a few other odds and ends thrown in) on the after deck, even back in my old plastic kayak days I got in the habit of putting a small dry-bag on a cord, and shoving it all the way forward in the cockpit.  When you want to access it, you pull it back between your feet into your lap.  When done with it, use your feet to shove it back up forward.  In there goes windbreaker, lunch, phone & whatever few odd and ends I might like to have for ready access.  I find this more convenient than something like a fanny pack in my lap, and it also holds much more that the limited space in a life jacket pocket,.  Having the bag in the front of my feet instead of putting something on the foredeck also either reserves room on the foredeck for the Windpaddle sail, or other things I might like to carry there if the boat is fully packed out for expedition.  And the option of carrying nothing on the foredeck is nice, as that prevents windage and (in those rough times with a skirt on) the ability for waves to "grab" anything and knock the boat about.  

Instead of a bag in front of my feet making the fore comprtment smaller, I put items on either side of me. There are thin panels (one each side) from the edge of the cockpit deck to bottom planks, padding added so the hips feel the kayak and between these panels the the sides of the kayak, room for items that might be needed such as a windbreaker though that is usually worn. Lunch goes in a hatch. I don't really like brewing up on board. A nice beach is much better - and we have plenty.

As for a phone, what use is that? There is no coverage in most of the areas we paddle. We try and get away from that sort of thing.

For pulling a pack back between one's feet, make the pedals with a suitable hole.