Hi Joe,

Welcome to the addiction, er, hobby. As far as the environments go, the CH17 will shine for lake/river paddling as long as you don't try getting into channels that are too narrow to turn around in. What I'm not so sure about is the passenger.

I've never tried to share a cockpit with a child (or even a pet) so I'm not sure how exactly to get someone small safely in there. Keep in mind that someone sitting in front of the paddler would make the stroke awkward, what with the necessity of not bashing the little one's brains out, and that all paddles drip to some extent so that a bit of water in the cockpit after the end of a long paddle is not unusual. Normally, a sponge takes care of that, but if you've got a little one that you're trying to keep dry, it may be very difficult. Finally, anyone small enough to be a passenger in Mom's CH17 is going to be too large to do so fairly soon. You might be better off with a larger boat, like a Wood Duck Double or a Mill Creek 16.5. You might try calling CLC on Monday for advice. I know for a fact that some of those folks have kids who have been in CLC boats since they were quite small, so they know how to tuck youngsters into CLC boats safely.

As far as supplies -  sandpaper, gloves, respirator filters, sand paper, ear plugs (unless using muffs), disposable brushes (foam and bristled), sandpaper, razors, masking tape, sandpaper, 4 to 6 mil polyethylene, clear packing tape, sandpaper,  painters' rags, paper towels, denatured alcohol, sandpaper, shop vac filter (I typically use one up during a build) and did I mention sandpaper? I actually bulk order my sandpaper off the internet. The quality is higher (so sanding is faster) and the prices much lower than at the DYI chains.

So check with CLC about little passengers and have fun building and using it. Doing it as a spousal present is a good move. I did that for a milestone birthday for my wife and she's still happily using the boat 15 years later.

Laszlo

   I appreciate the input Laszlo, we've got 3 kids and 4 boats so it's nothing we're not used to. All of my kids have shared a kayak with mom and dad many times. I will look into bulk sources for sandpaper, I hadn't really considered how much j was going to need yet. Although going by your suggestion, "a lot" seems appropriate. What about tips/tricks or special tools that might make things go easier? On a boat-building video I saw the builder was utilizing a long, narrow table. What should I be considering for working areas?

   I usually frame up a 24"w x length of the work long plywood on 2x4 frame table at a 30" AFF (above finish floor) ie counter tops are either 30 - 36aff.  I don't like to bend over.  Sometimes I will put table top on short saw horses.  Of course I often have plywood and 2x4s around. Screw them together with deck screws so you can take it apart and reconfigure to  support the boat later.  

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Somepeople do the initial "glueing" up on the floor.  I don't bend like that any more. Of course my kids have kids and their own hobbies. 

   You are going to need a "bond breaker"  to put on the work table to seperate the work from the table so you don't glue it all up.  Wax paper, and visqueen sheet seem to work. Use between glue ups, stacked. 

Light you'll need light in the work space. 

Dust control. Both ppe and the space. In my garage I used a fan to blow the dust out the open garage door.  In my shop or a closed garage I use a dust collector that attaches to the sander. I also use a filter on a box fan to collect the fines. 

Heat  ....... there will be a lot of discussions about temperature. I won't go into it since I live in Florida. We often have the other problem. 

100 trips to the hardware store.........don't worry about that. Just go when needed. Its easier to keep track of the supplies if it is in the hardware store.  

OK Joe,

I still don't see how a kid can fit in a CH17 cockpit with the parent, but it sounds as if you guys have that handled. 

This is the most convenient workbench setup I've found so far. The sawhorses fold up for storage and have slots in them to accommodate 2x dimensional lumber. I got a couple of 16ft 2x4s, cut a pair of 2 ft wide pieces from a 3/4" 4x8 plywood sheet and screwed them into the 2x4s with deck screws, then covered them with 6 mil poly painter's tarp material. It's strong enough to stand on and breaks down into relatively easy-to-store parts in 15 minutes or less. 2 pair of 2x1s with a 1" nylon strap between them lets me suspend the boat when needed, or I can unscrew those and build right on the tabletop. The space under the table is good storage space. All the stuff is available at DIY hardware stores.

The stuff Grumpy mentions is important, too, especially light. And he's right, it's easier to find at the hardware store than in my garage.

I've not needed any special tools, but good sharp razor saws (like the bonsai saw and Japanese razor saw), and a shinto rasp make life easier. You'll need a sharp block plane for the sheer clamps, though they can also be done with a belt sander if you have one. Putty knives help with filleting and  you'll need pliers, wire cutters and possibly a wire stripper (depending on where you get your wire from). Other than that, all the usual home tools are about all you'll need.

As far as the sandpaper goes, you'll use more on the first boat because you won't know how to avoid drip and runs when you start. I mean, you'll have read things like work clean, but you'll still need to practice. #80 is good for getting rid of drips and runs. #120 cleans up hard surfaces after #80. #220 gets you ready for varnishing and #400 wet and dry is for sanding between varnish coats. When sanding epoxy, you need lots of paper. It's not like wood. The paper gets clogged with epoxy and loses its edge.

That's all I can think of.

Laszlo

PS - Clamps, lots of clamps. More than you can conceive of. At least 3 dozen spring clamps to start with

   Perfect, I appreciate the input and advice. I'm up in Central NY, so this is more of a basement winter project for me. Lighting will certainly be something I have to consider. You're both probably right about the hardware store though, it would most likely be easier to find on their shelves rather than my own. I like both options for a work bench, so I guess it makes sense to build it close to the size of the work but also simple enough to break down between projects. What size orbital sander does everyone use? J was at my local Lowes and found a 5" that goes with my battery operated set, but will that be large enough? I did see a 9" (or maybe it was 7") but that was not a cordless model. I think I'm going to start looking into bull orders of sandpaper once I've got the sander situation figured out. I do plan on picking up the saws just based on advice I've received here and the independent research I've done, I think it's better to have them and not need them than the other way around.

I use a Dewalt 5" with the velcro pad. Mine operates off the mains rather than a battery. There's a hose coming off the end into my shop vac, so a battery-operated version would still not have me free from tripping over connections. Because of that I went for the endless supply of power from the wall rather than fooling with batteries. Also, keep in mind that the sander's bearings will eventually get packed with epoxy dust, so unless you're really into motor repair it's probably best to regard it as expendable and not spend a lot on it

Laszlo

   Ok, so it sounds like it may not matter whether it is corded or not, because like you said, a shop-vac would be most likely involved anyway. It sounds like cost-effective is the way to go.

Buy the best that you can afford.

I'm using a corded Ryobi 5" ROS w/hook & loop pad. Bought it maybe 25 years ago when finishing trim I milled from S2S red oak for a home we were living in. Had to buy new pads a few years ago when the hook part came unglued from the pad. Took a bit of searching but I found 'em.

It came with a dust collection bag, an essentially worthless accessory. So I used the bayonet adapter collar from that bag to make a secure connection with the Dust Deputy-equipped shop vac I use for my portable power tools.

Another handy sander can be had by adding a sanding pad to most any multi-tool. Mine happens to be a Bosch, fitted with a dust collector accessory collar, again plugged onto that shop vac. Vastly better for working the concave surfaces in a build's interior bits compared to that 5" disc w/ handle stuck out behind.

   You can get the study plans for a buck so might be a way to see if the standard cockpit will be big enough for kid plus parent. 

I'd get a HEPA filter for the shop vac  it's finer than the usual filter and stops a lot of the epoxy dust. It works when you are hand sanding and cleaning up with the vac or of course with the power sander also. Keeps my basement cleaner.  Shop Vac brand has a HEPA replacement filter but may have to order since most stores don't keep it. It's washable and reusable. 
 

Look at CLC prices for sandpaper and brushes. It was cheaper to buy a box of brushes from them than go to big box.  

I'm a fan of hard rubber sanding blocks, and wet sanding once the wood is glassed or sealed. Almost no clogs, no dust, no 'burned through' corners, a fairer end result, and a more deliberate shaping process than the RO. With a block, I can use grittier paper than is safe with a spinner, and sand only the surfaces (and corners/edges!) that I want to. I'm pretty sure my coat/sand/coat time is no greater by hand/wet sanding than using a power sander, since I don't have to deal with blush removal, nor dust cleanup, nor patching sanded-through areas... And, in these days of wearing masks a lot of the time, I enjoy a process that lets me not do so in my own shop.

(Note I'm not a hand tool purist at all, but this is an area where I think it makes sense to do things by hand).

The CH17 (I did several LT's in my shop with friends) is a great boat for lakes and river running, as long as your river has consistent depth -mine gets gravel shallows at many times in the year, requiring a Flinstone-like hand scoot while wincing at the scraping sound. Graphite bottom after that!

I did once put my grade school daughter in the rear hatch for a short jaunt from the lake edge, but it wasn't a good fit, nor safe beyond swimming distance to shore. If you're really handy you could go rogue with the cockpit and make it much bigger for between-your-knees kid seating (there's lots of room for this to the forward bulkhead), but the paddling ergonomics would suffer as mentioned above. 

   Hello Joe, welcome to the world of boatbuilding!  I hope that you find it as rewarding as I have.

Lots of great advice above so I don't have much to add.  The first item is that you may want to plan on paining the hull on your first build.  This is what CLC recomends and very few first time builders will make it through thier first build without a good cosmetic blunder.  Since you build the hull first, this is where the blunder will likely occur and paint will hide it.  Just a thought.

The second item of discussion is the idea that both your wife and son will fit in the Ch17.  You say that you have had "four plastic boats of varying quality" that your kids have shared with you.  What exact models are these boats?  Nearly all low end boats have big open cockpits.  The Ch17 has a 17"x31" keyhole cockpit with thigh braces, and a knee height of only 12".  We have a 17LT and 16LT, both of which have IDENTICAL cockpit and knee height measurements as the Ch17.  I KNOW that my 3 year old nephew will not fit in my 17LT with me and I am a small guy (5'7"/152#).  Take a good look at the picture of my wife (5'2"/112#) in her 16LT.  Note how close to the cockpit lip her legs are.  I suppose that she could jam a small toddler in with her but they would both be uncomfortable and could not paddle far.  Honestly, unless your son is currently in utero, he will likely outgrow his seat on mom's lap before you even complete the boat.

You will be much better off if you look at boats like the MC13 or one of the Wood Ducks for use with a kid on lap.

After some veiled conversation with my wife, as well as a conversation with a lovely young woman at CLC, and consideration of the many that have advised in this thread I made the decision that everyone suggested. Instead of the Chesapeake 17 I've gone with a Wood Duck 14 instead. I think my stubbornness was mostly out of what I wanted to see her in rather than what she would be comfortable in. But life is a lesson that needs to be learned every day. Moving on though, I've definitely got a lot to consider based on all of the advice that everyone has given. I've already started trying to figure out where I'm going to build and I've already sourced supplies and tools through CLC. Not cheap, but less frustrating than walking around the local hardware trifecta to try and save a few dollars. Next I think I will look into those study plans and wrap my head around all of this and try to figure out exactly what I got myself into. Though I do have another question. With wet sanding, does this reduce the probability of cosmetic blemishes? I'd really rather not paint the hull if I can avoid it. Also, has anyone put in a drain plug? I can't imagine it being too difficult but then again I've never done it.

".....  Also, has anyone put in a drain plug?....... "  Why? You aren't building a skiff. Just turn the boat over, use a sponge and or pump. But you could. 

My wife carries two dogs in a tandem kayak. The 85# senior in the front cockpit and the 55# puppy on the deck...........or mostly in her lap. The puppy jumps out a lot to swim and then climbs back in only to sit on her lap...... It works in a cockpit similar size to the C-17. But comfort is not a part of the problem. Shifting to the WD is likey better. 

Paint............most people won't notice the problems you know about.  Things look a lot better standing 10ft away from the boat. They can't see the bottom in the water. They can't focus on the deck with bungees and lines.   Go ahead and plan for the varnish.  When its all sanded and you are trying to decide on paint or varnish wet the surface with denatured alchol to see what it will look like varnished......... then go buy the appropriate UV protection....paint or varnish. 

Some will say you don't have to sand as much with paint past 120 grit, but I do it anyway.  So plan on doing the 220 anyway. Besides I hear.......sanding is fun. 

  Clamps.........a boat builder can never have too many  clamps.  

>>  With wet sanding, does this reduce the probability of cosmetic blemishes? I'd really rather not paint the hull if I can avoid it. <<

No. Wet sanding is good for removing brushmarks and fine dust marks. That's about it. You need a very good surface before you start wet sanding.

An inexperienced builder will generate "cosmetic blemishes" by mis-aligning parts, applying uneven epoxy fillets, having wrinkles in the fiberglass, sanding through the plywood veneer, dripping gobs of paint, epoxy or varnish where they don't belong, applying too much paint, epoxy or varnish resulting in runs, or a number of other things that wet sanding can't fix. Heck, even experienced builders do this.

To help, my first rule is "Don't do anything for the first time ever on the boat itself." Build mockup pieces or joints to practice on before you attack your pride and joy. That way you can throw away your mistakes (which you will have) before you screw up a build in which you've already invested months or years.

After that: be patient and be meticulous. You will still make mistakes. But if you're working slowly and carefully they'll be small mistakes. Odds are you'll be able to correct them in some fashion that won't require painting them over.

>> Also, has anyone put in a drain plug? I can't imagine it being too difficult but then again I've never done it. <<

I have not done so. The drain plugs I've seen in plastic kayaks have all been on the deck - in the bow, stern, or both. They work fine when you turn the kayak upside down and lift the opposite end way up.

You will probably need some kind of backing plate on the inside to add strength where the drain attaches to the deck.

The WD14 is a great choice. I am sure that both your wife and son will be happier in it.  There is time enough in the future to put her in a more sporty boat.  Trust me, you will blink three times and the kids will be all grown.  Then you can build her something like a Shearwater 16.

Like you, I tend to buy most everything except consumables from CLC.  I could save a few $$ but it is so much easier to have the Magical Brown Truck show upo with everything that I need.

Gramps' advise above to decide paint or varnish once the glass is on is a good idea.  When you look at the completed boat, it will tell you if it needs to be painted.

Like others above, I soo no reason for a drain plug in a kayak since you can easily turn it over.  I have installed an Epic surfski bailer in one of my race boats so I can paddle in big waves without a skirt.  Works great but definately not recommended for a Wood Duck because you have to be able to paddle 4+ mph with the cockpit flooded. 

   So the general consensus is no drain plug, that's good enough for me. I do appreciate everyone's help and patience with all of my questions. I'm sure that I will have more along the way. In the meantime it's just a waiting game between now and when the kit gets here, and then waiting until I have time to begin. Hopefully my wife doesn't start planning my funeral in-between all of this.