Not sure which CLC yacht you are biulding, but I have done a lot of rub rails on fiberglass Snipes. Mostly teak, oiled, but also oiled white oak. The only reason we replaced the rails was to put a new deck on the boat, or age. Never saw rails replaced in less than a 20 year old boat, and usually closer to 30!

We would do them with screws dipped in 5200, but no glue, no bedding. We counter sunk the screws in deep holes (in the rails) and plugged them with bought plugs or a dowel.

I have also epoxy glued rails onto a boat, with screws that we removed once the glue cured and plugged the holes. The plugs can, but don't have to match the rail. Contrasting plugs can look really nice.

To actually answer your question - It does not matter which method you use. So many years will go by before the rails need replacing that removing the old ones will not be the only thing you are fixing. If you epoxy the rails on they can be cut off with a scroll saw and the left wood and epoxy removed with a small plane. If they are bedded and screwed, one hopes all the screws come out easily.... and sometimes the bedding is a pain to remove.

Bottom skids, on a boat that is beached a lot is a more frequent wear out item. Rub rails last decades.

Again, no mothod is wrong!

Enjoy,

Joel

Thanks Joel, your explanation of the 'what ifs' for both methods gives me confidence to proceed!

And I'm building one of CLC's Waterlust expedition canoes. Bonded deck to hull 5 days ago, expect to 'glass deck topsides maybe tomorrow! 75% done, 65% to go!

   On a kayak I made back in the 90's I glued oak screen door bead on for the rub rail, perfect size. I epoxied them on and did not use and fastners to attach them. About 18 years later, I had to replace them. I cut, chiseled, planed, sanded, what ever it took to remove, not a fun job. How did I attach the new rub rails? Same way with epoxy. 

PS